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Advice on deep water course set up?


Jmoski
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Hey Guys,

 

So I help maintain a slalom course on a public lake that’s in 40ft of water on one side and 30ft on the other.

 

We are in the north so the course has to come out in the Fall. We have permanent anchors with sub floats on each end and use a removable ez-slalom set up that stays in May to October. The permanent anchors were put in by some one else who moved south years ago.

 

We got a new mainline with pregates by accident (existing set up is without) but we are going to use this opportunity have the full set up with the 55’s. Space is not an issue.

 

What type of line would you use to go from the new permanent anchor we will put in on one end? Any tricks on how to rig it?

 

Also, we sometimes get an underwater current that can put a curve in the course, I am worried this will be worse with the extra 110m of mainline. Anyone ever dropped an anchor off to side and clipped it with a steel link/carabiner to the main line to resist the current from curving it? The link would be able to slide back and forth, the main line has a plastic coating on it, not sure if that would wear through or not. Or I could connect to a junction point so there’s no movement.

 

Any other thoughts or suggestions are welcome.

 

Thanks in advance...

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My slalom course in NY sounds similar to yours. The BEST anchor is an old cast iron radiator if you can get a couple. Otherwise cinder blocks will work. Use several and chain them together. They’ll settle into the bottom and never move. You can pretty much use any rope and it does not need to be expensive good stuff. Make sure the anchors are at least three times your water depth away from the ends of the course so that your anchor lines cover the distance from the anchor to the course at a gently sloping angle.

 

Here is the secret to keeping your course tight as water levels fluctuate and to keep the bow out on windy days. Attach a high volume jug (I use detergent bottles) to your anchor lines somewhere around the midway point. When the anchor lines are tight, the jugs are pulled underwater and out of the way, but they are always trying to come to the surface, thereby always keeping tension on the course. If the water level goes down, the jugs raise a bit and keep the course tight. If the wind tries to push a bow in the course, the jugs fight back to keep it straight.

 

The biggest mistake you can make is putting too much tension on the mainline when you tighten. Eventually something will give, usually at the worst possible time.

 

I always tighten by hand, never using a come-a-long or ratchet straps or other device. But you do want to us carabiners, or a small stainless or galvanized block or something similar so the rope has a smooth surface to pull across to avoid fraying. I put a carabinier on the end of the course and tie a loop in the anchor line maybe 30 feet away and put a carabiner there. Run the anchor line through the end of the course and back to your loop and pull the course tight from there. You can add an extra piece of rope to bridge the gap and get started, then remove it when you are done.

 

Never tie a knot that you won’t be able to untie in the future. Learn how to tie a bowline knot. It’s the handiest knot there is.

 

Lpskier

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We have a similar setup in 40-50 ft of water, we added 55s last year by buying a kit from ez slalom, they recommended leaving the original anchors from the gates and adding 2 more anchors for the 55s. So far it’s been great, just need to make sure the anchors for the 55s are in line with the course. Takes a little adjusting to get it right.

 

I really like the idea of the jug on the anchor line, will need to pull up anchors to do that though so It might not happen.

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@lpskier sounds like a good idea. We have a very similar setup (EZ Slalom from Ed @Ed_Obermeier ) and this looks like it won't hurt. Pulling anchors is a PITA but may dive and add some jugs. Thanks.

 

@Ed_Obermeier --- what are your thoughts on adding a jug to an anchor line?

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If by chance you have access to it, a small inboard boat in reverse is muy bueno for tightening a course. An inboard is too strong and directional control if not actually moving forward is awful...and reverse they only go one way.

 

If you can tie a line to your anchor on one end and secure to the nose of your outboard, then reverse for light tension you have ultimate control of right/left and will be looking right down the barrel of your course as it snugs up and comes straight. When it's good go to neutral, your anchor drops and you are good. Outboards are just not that strong at idle in reverse, and with the front secure you can position however you need.

 

I like the air jug mid line as mentioned above by @lpskier...never thought of that one.

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