Baller tru-jack Posted September 12, 2020 Baller Share Posted September 12, 2020 My rear carbon plate is sliding back and forth front to rear. I don't want to overtighten screws and risk pulling inserts out or loose. Any ideas? double sided tape under plate, special washers? looking for suggestions. cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller rockdog Posted September 12, 2020 Baller Share Posted September 12, 2020 Aah, the only reason a plate will move is if it isn’t screwed down. Screw that sucker down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller tru-jack Posted September 12, 2020 Author Baller Share Posted September 12, 2020 it's screwed down tight, thinking there must be some type of washer that 'grips' the top of the carbon plate better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller C5Quest Posted September 12, 2020 Baller Share Posted September 12, 2020 I use a mikro-just on both my front and rear reflex plates. Works great. Locks both front and rear down with no issues and allows you to move plates together when adjusting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller BraceMaker Posted September 12, 2020 Baller Share Posted September 12, 2020 Micro adjust is great but one or two finish washers will also bite into the plate. Sticky back sandpaper for sanders can also be stuck to the ski and will bite into the plate while not marring the ski. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Deanoski Posted September 14, 2020 Baller Share Posted September 14, 2020 A rubber washer works Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller bkreis Posted September 14, 2020 Baller Share Posted September 14, 2020 make sure your screws are correct length, if too long the plate will slide because they don't grab the plate tightly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Mick04 Posted September 14, 2020 Baller Share Posted September 14, 2020 Not sure if this is the right size, but you get the idea. Look for stainless if available: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-4-Count-8-Standard-SAE-Internal-Tooth-Lock-Washer/3012392 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller skialex Posted September 14, 2020 Baller Share Posted September 14, 2020 Adding a micro-just is the best solution, 2 pieces of VHB double sided tape will also work. You can use couple 8-32 prong nuts, cut off the threaded part and use them as washers... not so good for the plate in the long run. Haven’t tried rubber washers but I trust @Deanoski, still think that you would have to over tighten the screws... Or you can take a plastic buckle from an old hard shell, slot it and use it as a straight gear thing that will block in place by another small piece of the same material and a screw going through both of them. I’ll send you a picture of what I use for the past 10 years on my rear reflex plate with great success. Still use a mikro-just on my front plate and a mikro-just on the rear would be the best solution. This thing is brilliant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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