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Perfect Pass Recalibration


MI3Eventer
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You should not have to recalibrate your setting unless something happens where your baselines get erased. When I first got Perfect pass in 2008, the first version of Stargazer I wrote down the baselines, since I had to drive the boat through the course to time it for the baselines. If you have them written down you can enter them in manually if needed. I burned a half tank of gas getting it first set up in 2008. I now have Stargazer 3 event 9.2 with Zbox. You can drive in the open water and the software finds the baselines. Unless your course times are off you should not need to change the baselines.
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  • Baller

It could also be something mechanical, not enough return spring on the engine throttle linkage, etc.

 

Or..

 

My 2015 ZO dual pucks are essentially out of date, and don't lock in great or see as many satellites as they should. I have the single puck upstate on the to-do list. From what I’ve heard the firmware on the GPS pucks is too old.

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Baselines can always be reset whenever you want.

 

There is an issue with the GPS pucks needing to be updated due to changes in the actual GPS clocking - that either needs to go to PP or someone on here has the ability - its basically a garmin product that needs a firmware update.

 

Set up for a new mechanical stargazer.

#1 voltage - it is almost always preferable to run a dedicated power feed to the dash with a relay switched by the ignition - the big resistor on the servo gets HOT - this is because PP is a power hungry monster old school servo using the resistor like a brake to prevent the servo turning.

 

#2 return spring. You almost always can use extra return spring - PP only gives slack to the system it does not "push" the throttle closed. Go ahead and add one, your throttle lever may actually creep towards neutral - Sierra/Teleflex sells a clamp that goes on the cable housing to make the throttle not more they call it a throttle cable brake - you may need one.

 

#3 routing needs to be clean make sure from no to full throttle and fully slack to fully tight that the cable goes straight into the throttle body arm with no kinking or moving.

 

#4 - update the software on old systems or run in RPM like PP classic if needed.

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@MI3Eventer If your boat is running a holley 4bbl carburetor it does help to manually set your baseline RPM's. On my boat after running autocal the boat would run past set speed and took too long to settle back down for my liking. I think Holley carbs do not slam the throttle plates shut or do not idle down as quickly as EFI or 2bbl carbs. I spoke with pefect pass and they advised to try adjusting baseline RPM down 20rpm. Explaining that the baseline is just a target for perfect pass to initiate and once it beeps it uses GPS and sets a temp baseline for every pass. My boat now runs up and locks in almost immediately no matter how hard i hammer the throttle forward. It's still not as fast as my buddies with EFI boats but it's pretty close.

 

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@MI3Eventer your problem is the gps puck firmware is out of date. 100%. You can send them to PP to be updated. I made a cable to do it myself but it is a very fiddly process to get right the first time. The same pucks are used for dual puck zero off and has the same problem. It is transformational when you fix it. The other thing is to make sure you have current software on your PP. version 9 was a huge change. From memory 9.1 was also big. Version 9.2 is an updated interface where you don’t have to fiddle to change speeds. Make sure you have at least version 9.1
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