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2014 SN200 Steering issues


paul
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Hi,

 

Looking for some advice on some steering issues we are experiencing on a 2014 SN200 with 500hrs. Its ok at higher speeds but at lower speeds there is lots of play in the steering wheel and the rudder feels like it kind of jumps. I've greased the rudder a few times which helps but after 25hrs its back to being poor steering.

 

I pushed the rudder side ways and there is play. I'm assuming there is a bushing in the rudder port that can wear out? Does the rudder port need to be taken out to replace the bushing? Or can I just put new packing in and tighten the rudder nut? It is not leaking right now.

 

Also, at the helm, it looks like replacing the helm is often done to reduce the play in the steering wheel (about 2" when the rudder is held) or should I just try to shim and get the rack tighter to the pinion?

 

The steering cable feels fine - one finger to rotate the steering wheel so, unless the rack needs replacing I would think its fine?

 

Thx,

 

Paul

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yea never heard of a hydrogate causing steering problems.

however a ski boat that is utilized on a ski lake where turning around island under load in a predominantly singular direction can cause uneven wear in the rudder port. oblong or elongation in the bore of port. this can manifest its self after as little as 400 hours.

over tighten of the tiller arm connection hardware can also elongate or open up and

cause slop in the steering.

how many drivers pull them selves up out of the drivers seat via the steering wheel? this can cause excessive play in the universal connector between the tilt mechanism and mount unit. again causing slop in the steering.

steering cables again utilized in a singular drive pattern will also cause slop on the cable.

propeller changes as well as slightly dinged propellers can cause a steering load change as well.

 

what else?

 

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So @Jody_Seal what repairs should I try first in your opinion based on my description above? I am hoping that the repair does not involve removing the rudder port. And the boat has not spent the majority of its life on a ski lake - bigger lakes mostly
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@paul

a general inspection starting at the helm.

is the rack still tight to the Pinon assembly.

 

is the steering cable routed clean and no impingement.

 

go back to the clevis assembly on the tiller arm to cable ram. is it worn or sloppy.

 

is tiller arm to rudder post tight and safety wire installed correctly.

 

seen a couple instances were the rudder port backing plate was installed on a uneven substrate , cracked and causing port to slop around in the bore. it leaked pretty good too.

 

rudder post sloppy in the port? more then 32 of an inch end play? side to side play excessive.

is the rudder tab pivoted to the right and is it tight?

 

won't know anything until after inspections and a little investigation. have someone turn the wheel while you inspect critical steering components.

 

 

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@Clydesdale

my experience with the Bryant built 200 was not good. and yes if you want to service the rudder or even change out the steering cable you will have to remove fuel tank. it is a pretty poor thought out boat and hell to work on.

 

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On the Ski the grease fitting for the rudder is right behind the battery in the back of the engine compartment and a tube runs a few feet to the rudder. Just open the box and connect fitting. I was told Mercury Quicksilver 2-4-C is a good grease for the rudder. I am not sure it is in the same place for the new 200.
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OK, so I found the rudder grease zerk on my 2019 200. Starboard side (not port as per the manual) aft of the engine box, about 5 inches back under the floor. And the bonus is that it’s only about a quarter inch below the floor, and facing up towards the floor. @Jody_Seal I seek your wisdom on this. Surely it must be me. Some trick? Does correct craft have some special fitting to get in there? Or maybe they hire double jointed midgets to work on these things? (Photo was taken with my phone a few inches aft under the floor behind the engine box). rz62ngnw9hf8.jpeg

 

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Lincoln makes an end for a grease gun that slides on zirks from the side instead of head on.

Link here and here for an example of the adaptor. I attached mine to a flexible grease whip to be able to get it into tight quaters and then attach the gun to the zirk end I put on the other end of the hose.

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@Clydesdale

like I said very poorly thought out..

you decide to change the steering cable i have a whole photo series, might as well make an appointment for a tetanus shot as well as know where the nearest clinic is to get stitched up...

You will bleed..

 

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just so as you all know one of the not so subtle changes in the 200, 2019 on is the fact there is not a removable rear floorboard. probably the worst idea ever for a direct drive ski boat.

2010 -2018 200s are very easily accessed and easy to work on.

 

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Thanks everyone. I got it done. Kind of hard to describe, but the floor dips down at the engine box. The zerk is mounted directly behind the dip. It’s actually higher than the dip and pointed up. Picture below will give you a better idea. Simple solution was to remove one of the Phillips mounting screws, and rotate the bracket so the fitting is horizontal for easier access. I suspect their intent was to mount this 4-5 inches forward of where they did, so it could be seen and accessed from the engine compartment. Someone in the design/manufacturing process messed up a measurement. Note-mine is an early 2019. Wouldn’t surprise me if they figured this out and corrected the problem in newer boats. v4cjg1qwk1gk.jpeg

 

 

 

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Based on what I've seen and heard I can only take the following assumption: Correct Craft sent the molds to Bryant and said "Run with it, and build it however you want". Didn't turn out so good did it? You gotta train people if you want something done right.
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