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Excalibur 330 questions


tjs1295
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I have a couple quick questions about my Excalibur 330 that is in a 2007 ski nautique 196.

The first one is what do I do when my heater starts to leak, and I don’t plan to replace it? Do I need to get some plugs for the inlet and outlet points on the engine? Would a temporary fix be running a length of hose between those two points? I almost never use it, and don’t want to mess with it if it leaks.

The second question is how does perfect pass control the speed with this set up? It looks like it’s electronic, and not mechanical. I know this is right around the time perfect pass switched to zero off. I’m mostly just curious about this one.0d8ex7d44iai.jpeg

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Per the heater, I would use a small section of new hose to create a bypass as you suggest. Leave the existing hoses there after you disconnect from the block in case you change your mind on fixing it or if you sell it down the road as a buyer might want to fix it. Running new heater lines to the core is a hassle.

My 2006 was Perfect Pass and DBW, your 2007 should be Zero Off.

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@Jmoski @BraceMaker Thank you both for the input. Great idea to leave the heater lines intact. I saw the E control computer recently. Didn’t pay much attention the previous four years of ownership. The unit on the dashboard is definitely Perfect Pass. I always thought those two companies were totally separate, and not compatible? So I have a perfect pass head unit linked to a zero off computer controlling my speed? Probably one of those boats that would be easy to upgrade to full zero off?

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Congratulations on getting an 07 196 which you can easily install Zero Off into. It may not be necessary for your open water skiing, but the system is more reliable than Perfect Pass and most of the cost would be recouped on resale.

This may be a bit perfectionist but I would caution against connecting the hot water outlet from the block directly to the cold water intake on the water pump, bypassing the heater core. You would be creating a loop to bring hot water into the cold side of the system. I have put heat into 3 of my four ski boats and really enjoy it. The heater cores are fairly durable if winterized properly, they are easy to replace and don’t cost too much once you know the automotive heater core part number. If you want to take the heater out of circulation I would source plugs for the block outlet and pump inlet. I agree with earlier comments it is a real pain to run the water hoses from the under bow area to the engine bay in a 196, so leave those in place if you disconnect the heater.

This imagehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171001/18850370b12d9aeb98deaeeb64f536da.jpgFrom this winterization thread https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/forum/nautique-topics/maintenance-technical-discussion/539524-step-by-step-winterization-of-pcm-343 shows where the hot water is drawn out of the 5.7L Vortec block. You should be able to remove the brass T fitting and install the black plug into the head of the engine. The intake is on the block-mounted water circulation pump.

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@vtjc Thank you very much for the info. Great advice! I will try to source some plugs instead of using a bypass hose. I've actually used that link before. This is the 5th time I've winterized it, and always put antifreeze into the heater core. That part isn't a big deal. I read that these heaters can have a short life. My plan was to not replace it if it fails. Grabbing a sweatshirt would be easier than replacing something we almost never use. Our previous 1994 had a heater as well. We rarely used that one, and I think I used the current one once last summer. I live in a colder climate, and we almost always ski early morning with air temps in the 50's, water temp in the mid 70's at best. The heaters work great when under speed. However, after 30 seconds or so of running at idle, all it does is blow cold air.

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@rockdog well, that’s interesting. Is this some aftermarket part, or should it have been there in the first place? Either way, I wouldn’t use the heater nearly enough to put more parts into it. I actually am one of those guys who would buy the very basic ski boat mentioned in the other thread. I don’t need much.

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My 2007 SN Excalibur is ZO DBW. Awesome pull vs PP I had in my previous '99 SN. No fussing with weight, wind, etc.. I could pull that system down quite a bit at 195-205 punds when i was in top shape, so when I jumped behind a ZO tournament boat, it was a big difference.

If you just want to ski and not do tournaments, the PP should be a great system for you. If you ski tournaments, go ZO all the way.

I have been contemplating upgrading to the single puck ZO system for my training buddy, because he and his daughter ski in tournaments. They both have gotten into 39 this past summer and have no issues behind my boat though... We use his new MC and my old tug boat and he scores the same. Not sure that would be the case if I had PP system..

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I have PP/Zbox running A2+ on my 97BB. As well I have been skiing on a 2009 196 with the updated ZO on A2 and I really don't feel that much of a difference. It certainly is not enough to affect my scores or make me consider spending money on a newer boat.As my ski partner says-is it a want or need.

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