Jump to content

Perko Flush


dgarland10
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Baller

I've installed several.  Love it for brackish water, and have never seen one fail.  Except... You'll need to find a long enough straight run in your intake hose to mount it.  No bueno to have a lot of curvy torque on the unit.

Also - consider running the full flush kit to a connection outside the boat (transom).  It takes a deep breath to drill that first hole in the hull, though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

@fu_man from what I have been told, by 2 boat mechanics that I trust, by itself a fake-a-lake doesn't mess up an impeller but using it can cause not enough water being forced up intake and/or allowing air pockets into the impeller and these can cause problems to the impeller.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller
5 hours ago, dgarland10 said:

Do you happen to have a pic of this?

I can get one after the boats is out of winter storage.

It is pretty simple. Just an inline T with a female hose fitting on the T and a ball valve to isolate when not in use. I do have a Nautique that has a ball valve on the thru-hull intake from the factory. When sucking from a bucket I close that. If I was using a garden hose directly I'd probably close it some but keep it cracked to allow excess pressure out. 

I prefer the bucket method as it never applies too much pressure to the intake and you can easily verify the impeller is working as it has to suck the water out of the bucket. If I was in brackish water needing to flush all the time I'd probably reevaluate. I only use it twice a year.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller

I installed a Perko Flush Pro about 8 yrs ago, and mine just started to leak at the junction between the garden hose inlet and the plastic body of the Flush Pro.  I will replace it with a brass ball valve with a female garden hose fitting instead.  The Flush Pro just seemed cheap and poorly made (especially for the price).  1999 Ski Nautique 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller

This is a 96 Nautique,  Your plumbing may vary.  Should be located such that gravity pulls water to the pump to prime it.  Everyone always asks: Doesnt the water just flow out through the thru hull?  Yes it does, until you start the engine, then it will suck the water toward the pump.  No need to put a shut off valve between this fitting and the through hull.  When running, there may still be some flow out the through hull, but engine gets enough water to run at slow speeds.IMG_3531.JPG

Edited by 75Tique
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller
4 hours ago, 75Tique said:

IMG_3531.JPG

 

A few things to note in 75tique's photo - A - you can clearly see how high up in the engine compartment this is due to the valve covers.  The way water works is if its above the waterline you can open it with out flooding your boat.  If it is not you cannot.  

In some boats there isn't a good point to do this cut in that high up - as an example the factory routing in a 94 mastercraft that hose comes in and goes horizontally along the stringer to the water pump.  Its still above the waterline but not so much but just be aware you need to be up above the waterline to do this safely, that plastic T if it cracks will not sink the boat.  

B the position of the transmission cooler while I agree that a hose running pressurized on that fitting should keep enough pressure to avoid priming but part of what makes that work well in his photo is that the transmission cooler itself has a restriction with those holes that strain the water, this means that water trying to exit the boat hits those holes and is prevented from glugging down to the through hull.

Edited by BraceMaker
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...