SN 200 Tiller Arm Connection

[BlueSki]

As slower slalom speeds, 24/26, my Ski Nautique 200 seems to have a slight dead zone in the steering. At higher speed, 32/34/36, the steering feels better. The rudder tab is well off to the right and locked in with new lock washers, it’s not moving, and provides good pressure. The steering cable is new last year, feels smooth, and does not feel dead at idle. The rudder feels solid.  
 

I took a picture of the tiller arm connection and there appears to be a slight gap. Does it appear that the connection of the tiller arm to the steering cable needs to be tightened a bit?
 

The gap where I drew the arrow seems to be something that could cause what I’m feeling at certain speeds. My guess is that at higher speeds the greater pressures remove the dead zone feel.

[Clydesdale]

Same symptoms here-steering cable replaced before I bought the boat.  Not sure how many hours before.  Mine is a 2019, so I’d need to remove the fuel tank for access.   If you figure it out I may become inspired.   Otherwise I’ll just ski fast and pretend I don’t have a problem.  😁

[elr]

Same symptoms on my 196 - greasing the rudder solved it.

[Drago]

@BlueSki greasing the rudder is important. Tightening that joint should help, On MasterCrafts they retro fill that gap with washers

[jhughes]

I've felt this on multiple boats at that speed, I don't know that it's "fixable".

[BlueSki]

What’s weird is that I have over 900 hours on the boat and the issue is new this season. Thanks for the suggestions, I’ll grease the rudder and tighten that nut a bit and report back. 

[DW]

@BlueSki - did you check vertical play on the rudder?  I’ve felt a notchiness on a couple of boats with vertical play in the rudder.  A fix can be a thin stainless washer to remove the play.  Also, check all the cable joints and fasteners for play.

[BlueSki]

@DWthanks, I’ll do that as well. I haven’t been back to the boat yet.

[BlueSki]

Update, no real vertical play in the rudder and moving it matches that of other boats. Tightened the connection of the steering cable to the tiller arm to the degree I wouldn’t cause damage.  It’s gone from snug to very snug.  I still have the issue.  
 

Next attempt, I took a little off the trim tab to match that of another 200 at the lake that doesn’t feel loose at lower speeds. Will see how that plays out. After that, I think the only issue could be the connection between the steering wheel gears and the cable. It’s smooth, but maybe there is wear in the teeth.

Edited July 4, 2023 by BlueSki

[Mateo_Vargas]

Did you check the bolt directly on top of the rudder? Mine was loose on a 196  which caused additional play. The safety wire prevents it from becoming looser but doesn't stop it from getting loose.

[LeonL]

If there are washers between the rack plate and the pinion assembly you can try removing one from each bolt.  ("wear on the teeth")  I've seen some with and some without.

Edited July 4, 2023 by LeonL

[BraceMaker]

How is the steering support tube mounted on your boat.  I've had this on other inboards where the tube mount ball had slop and wasn't greased. If it hangs the rudder doesn't move smoothly.

[BlueSki]

@BraceMaker that’s a good thought, but in this case the rudder moves very smoothly and that connection seems solid.

My attempt to adjust the trim tab to match the other 200 failed.  My wife was getting ready to ski so I jumped in the lake and moved it underwater. I must have Forrest Gump’ed into a sweet spot, because it felt better, but not perfect.

Next step is to check the rack and pinion. As long as I can drive her opener, I’m good, so I may wait until I have a good weekend to climb under the dash or wait until the end of the season. My old ‘95 observer seat had the base to the floor attached so it lifted and climbing under the dash was easy.  Only the seat base lifts on this one, so squeezing under is a pain.

I appreciate all the input.

 

[BugHunter]

We replaced the steering cable in ours earlier in the year because it was stiff and had a lot of play.

The cause of the play was the mechanism behind the steering wheel. There were some metal shavings stuck in the grease, so it was worn for sure. After replacing that the play is now completely gone.

Replacing the cable was an adventure though. We knew about the gas tank having to come out etc... But the main drag was that the factory had zip-tied the steering cable to other cables going from the front, under the engine, to the back. Finding and cutting those zip-ties was the biggest challenge.

This is on a 2019 SN 200.

Edited July 6, 2023 by BugHunter

[BraceMaker]

The zip ties do suck.  I had a tool I made which was a section of 1" PVC pipe about a 2' long that I used a bandsaw to rip about 1/4 off of so it would slip over the cables.  Then I ground a bevel onto the end.  You'd slip tjos over the cable where exposed and slide it up the cable till it stopped then you'd usually be able to see the tie and reach in and cut it.  But you can also just rotate the bevel grab hold of the cable and jam it up against the zip tie till it breaks.

The tool also helped because I would slip it over the end and you could see the white PVC in the bilge and grab it easy.