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Ski nautique actuators


Deep11
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A little advice needed -

The actuators on our ski nautique have become temperamental. Chat to other owners suggests this is a common fault. Given the significant expense to replace, the possibility of repeat issues in the future makes me ask if they are really necessary ?

also is there perhaps a “universal position” where they can be placed to suit as many skiers as possible. 
(the lengths we currently use them on are 28, 32,35 and occasional 38 off).

 

thanks for any thoughts on this,

K

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You can probably have the 'micro tuners' shut down, they don't make a huge difference for those line lengths IMO.  But you need to make sure the hydro-gate works properly unless you just want it to be locked in Slalom mode.     The original hydro-gate setting seemed to default  to the Slalom but the new units Nautique started using last year appears to default to Trick 10 when shut down.   

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  • Baller

Are they Lenco actuators like on the surf boats? Can you post a picture of the actuators? On the surf boats you can use standard Lenco actuators if you're comfortable changing the electrical plug on the end of the cable. And they can be found for much cheaper than buying the part through Nautique.

Also on the surf boats, these actuators are typically good for around 5 years, and then it's just best to replace them. You can re-build them, but in my experience, they don't hold up that long after a rebuild. 

Or do they look like this?

 

image.png

This is what the Lenco actuators look like.

image.png

I really wish the forum software wouldn't combine posts. Is there a way to force it make a new post instead of combining with the last post when there hasn't been an interceding post from someone else?

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Ok, those are Thomson throttle actuators. They are a lot more expensive than Lenco actuators at about $450 each, but I expect getting them from Nautique is quite a bit more expensive. I don't know if any of the of-the-shelf Thompson models match up exactly. Can you read the part number off of them? They would typically be something like 

ET12-084 or ET12-174 followed by additional numbers and letters. E for Electrak, T for Throttle, 12 for 12 volt, 084 or 174 is the thrust rating of the actuator. The number and letters following define other details such as CANBus, digital, or linear control interface. 

Knowing Nautique, it probably won't match an off-the-shelf Thompson actuator exactly. But that may be something as simple as the type of plug on the end of the wires. 

Interestingly, those actuators are rated for a water spray environment if moving. They are not rated to be actually submerged under water while the actuator is changing position. 

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On 4/30/2024 at 4:32 PM, Deep11 said:

A little advice needed -

The actuators on our ski nautique have become temperamental. Chat to other owners suggests this is a common fault. Given the significant expense to replace, the possibility of repeat issues in the future makes me ask if they are really necessary ?

also is there perhaps a “universal position” where they can be placed to suit as many skiers as possible. 
(the lengths we currently use them on are 28, 32,35 and occasional 38 off).

 

thanks for any thoughts on this,

K

I talked to a senior driver yesterday about this actually as I pull some people in the 28-32 mph, 15-28 off range and he suggested leaving at 35 off (for practice anyway).  Will try soon. 

@Deep11 is your boat a 19 or 20?  I have a 21 and believe I was told they changed the  part that year for reliability.  Have access to a 21 or beyond to check the latest if yours if 19-20?

I forget, can a skier request deviation from the helm microtuner setting in a tournament?

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its a 2019 model.

have found the part from the manufactures and yes its about half the price of Nautique. One Issue of course is the IP waterproof rating as it may be that it was updated for use in the water full time?

does anyone have experience of skiing behind a boat where these things don’t work or are (as suggested) set in one position for all speeds / lines? Does it make much of a difference, can the average skier feel it?

 

K

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You can unclip the tuners from the actuators and see if they slide up and down freely.  They can get bent if you hit a boat guide or whatever.  If they feel sticky at least one is bent and that puts a lot of strain on the actuator.  That's when they throw codes or even burn out.  You can bend the tuners with a pliers very easily to correct a bent tuner or you can replace the tuners so they are flat.  I have never had to replace as the tuners are very easy to bend to straight.  If they slide freely unclipped you are good to go.  

My crew of junior's opinion is the wake is a bit better with them down/engaged even when they are supposed to be up.  But you don't want them engaged when you put it on a trailer or lift.  

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Well, from day one my opinion was just how long before problems start arising on micro tuners.  Maybe they do some good, maybe a gimmick, but I figured they would fail soon enough.

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I Could have this the wrong way round but I believe they only have two positions, up or down. The Move happens between 22 and 28off. If I remember I'll check today as on the screen it says when they are engaged to not. You may be able to manually set them down and just leave them there if all you ski is after 28? Also I don't think they do that much other than fill in the trough slightly when down. Its not a deal breaker for skiing.

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Wow, back in the day the boats couldn't have a moving plate/tab, how things have changed. Well I don't feel bad that on my 1992 BareFoot Warrior outboard I start with the motor tucked in to pull up the skier and when they are up hit the up trim button 4 or 5 clicks and bingo smooth as butter wake. I never knew you guys have it so tough in the drivers seat. Just kidding.

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Ernie Schlager

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