Mick04

@chris55 “ he tries a lot of differents skis and then he post a youtube (5-8 minutes) explaining the ski etc...and if we can have that for the waterski, it would be very great ” There used to be a guy who did that exact thing for water skis. Maybe Horton knows what happened to him. ?

eleeski, were you able to convert to single puck and Rev S without upgrading your head unit?

@Horton, are you planning to attach a temp buoy to the each rebar before you work on cutting it? Attach as close to bottom as possible, cut right above it. I can imagine “losing” the stub of a sharp freshly cut hunk of rusty rebar, then having to feel around for it in 0 visibility. Yikes, even with Kevlar gloves.

Spend more time skiing at the club on the real ski boat. Re calibrate watersport expectations on whatever outboard you end up with. FWIW, Glastron has a better reputation around here than Bayliner.

Can you tie a loop in the rope below the subs? End result will be subs 8” or so deeper if you can’t get the loop out, if that is acceptable. FWIW, we had Ed Brazil (RIP) and his diver Jay, survey and adjust our course about 10 years ago. Sounds like setup that you have. Ours is in 35’-40’ deep water. Some of the challenges: Like Deke says, some of the anchors really sunk into mud and were very tough to break free. Make sure the anchor lines are still in good condition (are they 23 years old or have they been replaced?) Breaking one, may mean losing the anchor under the mud. You may need to dive to each anchor and clip a fresh rope directly to the anchor (and work through the muck to do this). Ed had his “anchor wanker” to lift the anchors. It was a mini pontoon contraption, about the size of a single person fishing catamaran. Instead of a seat it had a hand cranked winch in the middle. The anchors would have been way to difficult to break free just by lifting. BTW, with ours, if they were to be moved less than 6”, they tended to settle back in same hole in mud.

For me, their size chart was accurate. I’m 6’3”, 225 so on the upper side of XL on their chart. First couple uses it was a little snug at shoulders (needed help with zipper) but seems to have conformed to my body now. These are super stretchy, no problem with length, I got the 3/4 leg.

I think the Superflex Slalom is the old version only limited sizes available. Superflex Pro is the current version. I ended up getting the Superflex Pro this spring.

Ski partner and I split time between his 99 SN bubble back (GT-40 310hp) & my 93 MC190 (HO 285hp) for almost 1000hrs on each boat. IMHO it depends on the level you are skiing. 32 off and shorter, I would give the nod to the SN. Less spray, better tracking, stronger pull (comparing SN GT-40 to MC carb HO 285hp/non-powerslot). 28off and longer, I would give the nod to MC. Softer wakes at longer line lengths, spray not an issue that far behind the boat (unless extreme headwind at 28off). Can’t go wrong with either boat though. Loved them both. If ease of working on is a criteria OP, consider the engines involved. SN GT-40 and MC LT-1 fuel injected motors or carb engines in either boat choice? How comfortable is the OP working on carbs vs fuel injection?

I didn’t want to get this thread too off topic. For the OP, I just wanted to highlight the referenced ad was for a carby 97 TSC1. During that era (I could only find a 98 brochure) Nautique offered the 310 HP GT-40; a 290 HP carb (GT-40 heads); and a base 260 HP carb motor. I’m not too sure the 260 HP carb motor is going to feel like the 310 HP GT-40. Which carb motor is in the boat? Dunno, ad doesn’t say. Is it still going to ski OK? I’m sure it will, but it may feel different. Just a question worth asking if you are considering that boat.

@6balls , the above 196 ad referred to recent carb rebuild. How well did the carb TSC1’s ski? I know the GT-40 boats were fantastic. Never actually saw or talked to anybody who skied on a carby TSC1. Or could that boat have been repowered?

+1 for Rini.

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I use 2 bags under observer seat with only a driver. When I have an observer, one bag gets moved under fwd most bow seat to shift CG fwd. If you primarily ski with driver only, I recommend 3 bags, 2 under observer seat, one in bow.

There is one near Cork as well. Drove by a course a few years ago.

Really tough stains, ON/OFF. Downside, it is hard on lungs and trailer. Another option is Captain John’s Boat Brite, which is supposed to be an enzyme, not an acid. Easier on lungs, trailer and environment, but may need two applications for really tough stains. West Marine carries it now.

+1 for O’Neill. I have a Gooru 2:1 (about 5 years, I don’t think they make it anymore), warm, durable, flexible. It’s the second one I’ve owned, the first one lasted 10 years. I finally did it in scuba diving in salt water, installing/removing docks etc. Call Performance, they can recommend the most similar current model. I would get the 1.5mm for the extra warmth, mobility will be fine. That being said, my ski partner has a Camaro Blactec and loves it. He is super careful with it though because of durability concerns.

@Keith Menard What lake is that?

@gregy, which steroids and anti-inflammatory did he prescribe? Do you still have to use either?

Reviving this thread. I have a size 12 Reflex carbon plate. The front has bent up, and I notice some fatigue marks around the front screw slots. Does anyone have experience with the large G-10 plate? Reflex was not offering the G-10 in large a few years ago when I bought it, but they do now. Others mentioned the same problem with aluminum plates, has anyone tried a Wiley's aluminum plate and drilled it to accept Reflex components?

I've got a 9' door, opening is a few inches narrower. TXi fits with trailer guides removed, but is tight. 24' deep garage gives me about 30 inches to spare with platform removed and tongue folded.

Definitely drain the block. The owners manual has the drain locations. On my 2014 it's the knock sensors on both sides of the block and a few hoses. If you have a heater, make sure you drain that too. After your first time, it will take less than 10 minutes. I refill with antifreeze as well, but owners manual does not require it.

I would love to see it in trick mode. Actually, with the same skier, but A,B,C & Trick mode overlayed.

I have a 2014 TXi, 5.7. Plenty of power for me at 230lbs. I'm about where you are in course, 34 mph, mostly 28/32 off. Put 40-50lbs ballast under the furthest forward bow seat cushion. Shifts CG forward for same tracking as 2015+.

Went to ski finale set for the season yesterday. Borderline whitecaps: We didn't ski. Predictably, 1 hour after pulling course: Massachusetts.

+1 Oldjeep. How damp was it under your cover and under your motor box? Check for corrosion on any electrical connections (fuse box, computer, gauges, PP components, switch panel, kill switch, etc)