chrislandy

Spoke to his coach at the weekend and he reckons he has a good few more speeds in that ski. He's on a hardshell & RTP already and has been for about a year now. Did this over the weekend 😆 very slow fall so didn't release but his rear foot was still in the loop so quick a soft but high show value OTF

So my boy is running the course nicely now, regularly running 43/18.25, sometimes through 46 and occasionally into 49 and wants to be running 55 and into shortenings by the end of the year He's currently on a 65" Radar TRA which seems to suit him even though he's 80lb but due a growth spurt. So the question really is when to change his ski and which skis/brands to look at? Preferably not new to give me time to look for one.

You see as a bad thing, but is it really? When PP was brought in, the pull consistency improved allowing more people to get higher scores, same for ZO, it will be the same for self tracking when it comes in. It will allow a grassroots skier to have the same boat pull as a top athlete. They could then train irrespective of the driver etc... consistency breeds results, so will 43 be run, yes quite probably. The other thing is mental, it took a long time to break the 4min mile and sub 10s 100m as it was seen as a barrier, once the barrier has been broken more follow Plus no doubt, it will allow the manufacturers to add anther 20k to the boat price😨

12yr old, 80lb soaking wet. Not got an official score yet as hasn't competed but adding up what he can do, he's around 890, not massively high but working steadily on the basics without progressing too quickly (as per coaches instructions) he's just started TB and hopefully will get his W0 over the summer.

That's the thing, I'm 50/50 on whether it's needed (hence the question). The reasoning behind thinking about it was that I've just finished building the kids trick ski and it weighs about 77oz complete with release plate and toe loop, but take the release off and it's about half that.

Looking at the Edge Trick binding, its a non release, removable boot binding. It got me thinking, If you go hardshell on a trick, does the binding have to release? I can understand non release on hand pass as there's the trend to have a heal strap on the rear toe loop. but what about on toe pass? I presume it's not necessarily needed on that either really as someone is pinning so the chances of needing the board to release are limited. So, it a releasable trick binding essentially just there to make swapping between hand and toe boards and transport easier?

That is what AWSA, BWSW, IWWF, FFSNW and all the other national and international governing bodies should be doing with our fees....

My last lake (private boat owners) put their subs up by ~$650 this year (over a 1/3rd increase), so we left and now ski at a commercial ski lake with new Ski Nautiques and 200's each year, world class coach & at least nationals level lake with 2 courses for just over $35/set

I just remove the 4 screws attaching the rear floor panel down, and remove as a whole with the box attached. about 2mins with someone to help. I've caught my toes on removable hinge pins, not pleasant, so that may the reason they don't put them on? TBH if you're doing major enough surgery that the dog box has to come off, then from MC point of view it should be at their dealers so it's not an end user issue.

I organized a grassroots comp last year, 2 sets, 6 passes guaranteed. We scored two sets of scores per set, the first was traditional slalom, the second was points for each buoy and entry/exit gates (8 points available per pass). Everyone who took part loved it so even if you missed the gates on pass 1 you still got to compete

@Luzz Thanks for all the interviews over the years, they've been great and you certainly have achieve the original goal of spreading the word. As with everything good, I'm sure it's taken an amazing amount of effort behind the scenes to produce the podcasts at such a high level, and it's great you've decided to go out on a high 🙂

My MV8 has got 1500hrs and runs like new, in the UK we'll quite often see 3k / 4k before engine swaps, one club I believe has 7k and still on the original engine (albeit they don't use it for the course anymore, it's a trick boat now)

most marine engines I've worked with (injection type) have a rpm limit vs temperature, and it's normally around 3k rpm you may find the CTS is failing or miss reading (normally the temp gauge has a different sender & I'm not sure if the MC analogue gauge has it's separate sender or is linked to the ECU through). but not enough that it throws an error code as it's just reading low temperature. But also, it could be in need of a good service, air filter clean/replacement, new plugs, leads etc, but most issues I've solved have been coolant temp sender related when it comes to an RPM limit like that.

I find mine does that when the screen gets too hot from the sun, then settles back down once cooled. I'm surprised MC and the others don't have a sun screen or cover for it like 99% of other marine screens

is this right? I haven't got denali & pandaville?

In all my years boating, a battery is a battery, as long as it has enough capacity to stop/start a few times then the cheaper the better. Use it all summer, trickle charge in winter. Move it to the jump ramp and buy another when it's buggered.

Shipping skis to the UK has always been expensive and is getting worse now we've left the EU. Best and cheapest way to ship a ski is to find a UK skier visiting the US, they can then bring back as part of their luggage and declare at customs on the way though.

I was basing the calcs on a minimum of 500hrs a year and expecting 750, most of the members at ours do 50-100hrs a year on their own boats (and wanting to reduce the hours on theirs), it also attracts more members as they don't have the outlay and maintenance of a boat of their own. and as @bikesrus said, some like a couple of passes, some trudge up and down on a trick all day. I'd think, if you're only putting 100hrs a year on it, just divvy it up and have fun.

It wasn't about trust, more about housekeeping and the club keeping records easily. Like keeping mileage records for work, the easier and more automated you make it, the more accurate it is, and actually gets done.

It depends on on the setup, I looked at it for a communal members club boat. The idea was to have an RFID fob, this then allowed the engine to start and logged the time the engine is running via an Arduino. Have it allow the engine to start up to 2-3mins after shutdown to allow for driver talking to skier, skier boarding etc. (also gets around the forgetting to tap out issue) This then allowed the boat to be fueled & maintained by the club then time charged to each member monthly on a per minute basis.

It seems standard practice over here in the UK, I'd estimate 90+% of new boat sales are to clubs, then on the market the next year or two with 1500hrs for private sale. Also MC /SN / Malibu are very regional for such a small country in area with SN covering most of the south, MC the North & north west and Malibu the midlands and north east

That does seem high, my 96 MC sold for slightly less than that at peak corona pricing (and that did have a brand new engine specialist marine in it with 150hrs on)

Unfortunately it's going that way, MC UK has a kitted out 2023 6.0 PS with trailer, tower, seats, bimini etc..... £155k (equiv of $185k) the joys of UK import taxes.

Ha! I would have, but the boat was 100 miles from a lake when I did the work!