2Valve

@Mitzysman Yes sir. Changed it in the fall. I even took it out of the FCC to check any differences.

The wife wanted to go for a moonlight cruise the other night but we were low on gas. I chanced it but ended running out. Got towed in and filled the tank but now it won’t start. 2002 PCM 5.7 engine with 850 hours. Throttle body fuel injection. Engine cranks over fine. I verified fuel pressure up to the throttle body by removing the high pressure line from the FCC and cranking the motor where a strong spray of fuel occurs. But the twin injectors won’t spray no matter what. I checked all three engine fuses with an ohmmeter. None are blown. Lastly, I switched off the battery, thinking maybe some error was generated by the ECM. Switched on the battery and still won’t start. What could have happened? Thanks, 2valve

@BraceMaker I haven't been using any soap or lube. Just slip on the boots and "horn em in" to the bindings. So far the Sync's are as good as advertised.

I'm getting a lot of crap from my ski club. "old man, just get some slippers and a robe when you're on the boat to go with the horn" "Look, all he needs is a pipe and the evening news" They obviously don't appreciate the pure genius mind at work here.....:)

I picked up a set of Connelly Sync bindings over the winter. This spring, I discovered my size 13's weren't the easiest set of dogs to slip into a set of boots, so I thought maybe a big shoehorn might work. I picked up one of these, attached a decent float on it (cause I tend to drop things in the lake) and can report it works like a charm. https://www.comfyclothiers.com/collections/shoe-accessories/long-metal-shoe-horn 2Valve

I'm 6', 190 and ski on a Carbon V. I really,really like this ski. Amidst all my mistakes, and inconsistency, I can push it very, very hard and it only rewards me, and almost never surprises or punishes. When I'm lazy or lack good technique then it dials back the performance as well. I've been a big fan of Connelly for a long time, so that probably biases my opinion, but still.......

@eleeski Very well said. I'm guilty of being an anal retentive technician when it comes to "sheenery". :) 2Valve

@eleeski I replaced the plugs last winter just after fogging the motor through the throttle body, and I must have switched 2, 4. In any case, GREAT skiing this morning. Our water is already in the mid 70's.

The wires must have gotten crossed because both leads to the plug are the same length. Thanks for all your help and getting me pointed in the right direction. Sometimes it's the simplest things. 2Valve

I love it when a plan comes together. This morning it hit me. Why would plugs 2 and 4 be black when all the others are pristine? Checking the spark plugs wires and knowing by heart the standard small block Chevy firing pattern since I was a kid (18436572), I quickly found plug wires 2 and 4 were swapped. Please don't laugh. :) God love a small block Chevy though. All 330 horses are back, and I'm going skiing, ba-beeeee!!!!!!

I forgot to add that hooking up the timing light to each cylinder fires the timing light strobe so I'm reasonably certain I have spark at each cylinder.

well, the saga continues. I drained the fuel and added 10 gallons of fresh. No change. I then pulled all the spark plugs and discovered plugs 2, 4 were black and wet while all others were clean and new. So I replaced all the plugs. No change. I then grabbed my trusty timing light and hooked up to cylinder 1. Although there's no timing plate with numbers, it appears that idle timing is about 10 degrees BTDC, which is stock. Interestingly, raising throttle barely advances the timing. Like maybe 2 degrees advanced at 2000 rpm. So now I'm trying to understand how the advance work. It appears there's a donut type device in the distributor that can rotate to allow the hall effect sensor to trigger at different points. But I'm not understanding if it's an electrical signal that engages the donut. It can be moved and it stays. Total rotation is about 20 degrees if I had to guess. To re-cap, the engine starts immediately with a slightly rough idle. The engine looks smooth, but if you're in the boat you can feel it shaking. Power is down, with plane out taking almost full throttle. Top speed only 39mph, around 4000 rpm. My gut tells me its an advance issue. Thanks, 2Valve

@vtmecheng Thanks for the extra information. There IS a connection of some kind on the top of the throttle body and I don't know what its for exactly. I'll check that connection and look at the manual as well. Now, what to do with 30 gallons of fuel. hmmmm maybe a bigass bonfire tonight. :)

@dvskier Agreed. It's hard to stay away from any ethanol, but I sometimes find Ethanol free fuels for my motorcycle as I travel around.

@adamhcaldwell I'm going to throw my conventional timing gun at it this weekend. That should tell me at least if advance is occurring. First thing I decided to do is get all the old gas out. Hate to do it. That's 30 gallons that I'll have to dilute in my other vehicles, but it's the most likely culprit in my mind at this point. Thanks everyone for your insight. Much appreciated. Maybe this weekend I'll get some skiing time in also. 2Valve

@DW, There shouldn't be any issue with the distributor as the lock down bolt has never been loose, so you're correct on that assumption. I'm not familiar with the advance module. I was thinking that the ECM used rpm to develop the advance curve? I did visually check both exhaust outlets with a strong flashlight and they look clean with no mouse or other critter evidence. TB cleaning is on my list too. Thank You, 2Valve

@A_B I agree. The exhaust tone is just "different", like a poorly timed engine. I have a timing light that I use on my older points and condenser driven engines. I should be able to check static timing and advance operation. Conventional distributor with a lock bolt. Yes, it could have moved. 2Valve

@DW, no raw gas smell. I'll be out there again this weekend. 2Valve

thanks all. I'll check everything. I'm pretty anal when it comes to 'electrics' cleanliness and dielectric grease but no harm checking coil connections. I'll report back with my official findings. This boat was like a 427 Vette out of the hole, so looking forward to getting it right again. 2Valve

I just took my 2002 PCM 5.7L equipped boat out of storage and it's not running right. It starts fine but the Idle is a little rough, but seems smoother when RPM's are raised to around 2,000. Power is definitely down, when accelerating. And there's a different "tone" to the exhaust. Top speed is only 39mph, 4000rpm, where normal is 50mph, about 4900 rpm. I stored the boat last fall with a full 30 gallons of gas, fresh oil, filter and fogging of the motor through the throttle body. (the same routine I've followed for the past 16 years). The only thing different I can point to is when I dropped it off, I had forgotten to Stabil the fuel. My buddy had some, just enough to treat maybe 5-10 gallons, so my thought is it's the fuel, or maybe fogging the motor fouled a spark plug. Distributor cap and rotor are clean, both replaced last fall Fuel filter (fuel control cell) is new Throttle butterflies are opening properly, no binding of cable, etc. Any ideas would be appreciated. 2Valve

Thanks for the updated info. I'll call SKIDIM. Agreed, their website is tough to use.

Thanks everyone. I'll try the NAPA route first and go from there. I'm good with cutting hoses and modifying "shee-nery".

I have an older PCM based boat (2002 5.7L HO) that I'm having trouble finding coolant hoses for. I had Miami Nautique send me a set, but the bends were all wrong. Nothing's broken, I just want to change them out due to age and hours (860). Any advice would be appreciated. 2Valve

I have my rowboat on the lift now. So I'll try that "lash it down" approach first. thanks again everyone. Hope to get a set in this weekend. Still sore after skiing in FL last week. :)

great ideas. thanks y'all!