skibug

No offense to all the suggestions of skis; but, would a beginner be better on a less aggressive ski than the Synchro, X5, ect.? Just my 2 cents. But...if you do go with a high end ski my vote would be for the X5. My wife has been skiing for 6 years and just started skiing on one about 2 months ago; she loves it. I also know two other women who are skiing on the X5 and they love it too. I think it has just the right amount of flex/give/softness and great solid turns for those who ski lighter on the line, much like most women. I wish I could ski lighter on the lineÂÂÂ

That is all I needed/wanted to hear! I am sold on the ARM-GUARD If you could email me at skiall6@windstream.net (when you get a chance) with what information I need to supply you; I would like to purchase at least 1, and maybe 2 or 3.

not to mention that the competition is getting a little stiffer....Asher, JB, Parsons, Travers, Etc.

I get the sneeking suspicion that this could be a sensitive area??? Not meant to stir anything up, just wondering, much like the difference between boats or skis?? Maybe I will make eveyone happy and buy one of each??

How does the ARM-GUARD differ from the one at FM? I guess I am asking so I can evaluate which one to buy.  http://www.jagersport.com/product_info.php?cPath=77&products_id=245

Anyone have the final results of the MM?

I guess the old addage is true.......Schnitz Happens!

Anybody got all the reuslts??

One thing to ask or add....are you being coached to swing the off arm back and out to the side to help you counter rotate? I heard a comment on one of the videos that made me think so. My comment would be that this is a lot of wasted motion and creates a busy upper body. It will also promote the closing of the shoulders (agree with Brent and 2gofaster) as you come around/come over the top to reach for the handle. Until I got it down in muscle memory, I used to literally grab the lower portion of my vest with my off hand. This will help with the counter rotation and then the skiing or reaching back to the handle comes straight from hip to the handle; instead of reaching over the top and closing the shoulders. The movement of the off hand back to the handle is actually a very short motion and distance.

Men's Slalom 1. Drew Ross 6 @ 39 2. Nick Parsons 1.5 @ 39 went down around 2 3. Will Asher

Man, I am watching the MasterCraft pro stop #6, they just had Nick P with his ski at Tadd's perch.......that thing is FAT!!!!! He said he broke a prototype ski yesterday and got this one in today via Fed Ex.....i guess you have to be a pro to ge tthat "goode" customer service.

Forget the V-drive...what about that annoying little gnat parked on the right side of the dock??

Our hidden jewel

Do the inserts still work? Just because they are driven down doesn't mean they are bad. Just asking. If you do choose to remove them; try using "locktite red" thread lock and one of the binding screws. Put the locktite on the screw and screw it down tight without the binding. Let it set overnight.  The strength of the locktiite and the over tighening of the screw should overcome the threads of the insert. Otrherwise you will have to drill it out.  You will have to either fill the hole with JB Weld or some type of 2 part epoxy and redrill; or, oversize the new insert. You should be able to find them at Lowes, Home Depot, or a boating store like West Marine.  They may not be exactly what you had in there; but they will work fine.ÂÂÂ

I agree with 2gofaster with the speed thing; but, only after you have gotten to the speed that you will be skiing at normally with skiing your opening line length. Meaning, if your goal is to ski 34 mph; then, you need to get to the point where you can make your opening pass line length. If you are trying to establish your 15' off pass at 34 mph as your opening pass and you can only ski it at 32 mph; you should concentrate on making it at 34 mph. You shouldn't (IMO) slow to 30 mph to shorten the rope length. Once you can knock out your opening pass; then you can slow the speed down a little to work on a shorter length (IMO).

You have to get up to your prescribed speed before going shorter with the length. I think that there is a tendency when free skiing to be impatience. Think about being patience and letting the ski complete its turn, generate angle, and then take the load from the boat. This will get you "pulling" in the right spot. All the other technique aspects should be the same. Concentrate on making your edge change at the right time, off the top of the wake, and letting the ski cast out into the preturn. This is the point where the patience comes into play.ÂÂÂ

Those don't look like stock bindings on the Vogue...... I could go for the wood ski league; but, then I would have to buy a real oar for my boat. Hey, what about modified oar skiing???

I use a one handed gate (RFF). I start in the middle of the white water/boat wash. My ski passes the 55's, I sink my hip out a little to let the edge of the ski catch and let the pull of the boat cast me out (don't use any muscle to load up the pull out) also just short of a  2 count on the pull out. I have about a 1/2 second glide-ski still traveling outbound, Front of the boat passes the entrance gates, I release the handle (slowly), let the ski cast out from under me and carve almost like a normal 2,4 turn, progressive load to the top/middle of the wake and start edge change....hopefully I did it right. ÂÂÂ

Check that last entry.......it is all back to ground zero. I have a 515 13X12 on my boat, just checked it. I am back to where I started; but, I will be calling ACME tomorrow.

I did call ACME earlier this morning and talked with some very helpful and knowledgable gentleman "Jim". He told me I need a 515 - 13X12. I currenlty have a 13X12 5/8; which was typical on the 03 RLX. He is quite certain this will give me the extra 300 - 400  or so RPMs that I need. I have had the prop refinished once about 2 years ago and he seemed to think between the original pitch and the strong possibility that the cupping was altered in the refinishing process, this would account for the lower RPM. He did inform me that the wakes would proabably get a little firmer. Anyway, thanks to everyone who responded with the good advice.

I re-confirmed the RPMs on the 05 SN to be 3450 not 3700. My mistake.  Not that this would make a huge impact; but, I do run with 70 lbs in the nose of RLX. DW, thanks for the input. Which would you try first, pitch or cup, and how much? Also, I am assuming this can be done, by a propeller shop, to my existing 3 blade prop?ÂÂÂ

I have a 2003 Malibu RLX, 335 Monsoon Engine. It is a great ski boat. That said, I also ski behind a 2005 SN 196; which is also a great ski boat for other reasons than my RLX. Skiing behind the RLX - 3 blade CNC, my baseline RPM @ 34 is 2900, really low RPM, which is probably why the pull is so soft. I run my KX @ + to firm it up a little bit. The wakes are the soft and flat, almost unnoticable. It is more forgiving than the '05 SN 196. It seems to give a little more (i.e I can pull it around more) than the '05 SN 196. This can be good and bad. The bad part is I seem to get a little more slack at times; and, I think that is because of the ability to move the boat and the pull being softer. The good part is that when you are scrambling (which is probably more often then not) it lets you, without punishing you.  Skiing behind the SN 196 - 4 blade prop, baseline RPM @ 34 is about 3700, less forgiving; but, when skiing good, line stays tight, KX @ n. I can't move the boat as much, wake is a little more noticable, harder/taller. I have had my (2) best ski sets ever behind this boat. Don't know if that is a coincidence or not.  All that said, would going to a 4 blade prop on my RLX firm up the pull and keep it from being pulled around as much?  Any comments, thoughts, or first hand experiences?

jdarwin,  thanks for the ##'s. What about front binding, stock?? or something different??

This has also been described to me as "shooting the pylon"....as if you were to raise a gun and point it at the pylon to shoot.

What do you mean by "a slow handle"?..do you mean quiet upper body with letting the handle out slowly; then skiing back to the handle.