D Wolters

Mark, I know someone who has an 09 LXI promo, all the hardware for the wedge is in place and it wouldn't take much to talk him into providing a tower. It has a heater & shower and the head unit for the stero has never been (played) installed.

The one (flip) we used in the boat was not the HD version and wouldn't zoom in enough, not sure about the HD version. I was able to get the Sanyo for $200

John, The flip will not do what you want it to do (Zoom in) While looking at the flip (HD) at radio shack. I purchased a Sanyo Exacta (HD)Â for a little more. Much better!!!!!!!!!

I've been using them for two years and because of the warranty two pair have only cost me $80. Excellent fix, best thing I like is in between passes no adjustment needed Next pair will be Boa's

Scott I'm not sure what their using these days, But when we set the lakes up we used 1/4" marine bungy from the sub to the buoy. We set up a buoy storage locker with all required spare parts. We included a laminated photo of all required parts and for proper assembly of parts. Â Â

RD, I have the exact same camera. The price was sweeeeeet!

We started using it this year..and yes without question if helps. We started about two weeks before Seth S. came to the lake for a clinic. We videoed all of his coaching and ended up with 20 gig's. And just like Ed pointed out, don't focus only on the negitive, Identify what your trying to change, and because we catured everything Seth was seeing and what was said in between passes we look to see if were staying on top of what was taught. It's been two weeks since he's been here, buoy count is about the same as before he came but the video's look so much better. Couple more weeks and buoy count will be up and our plan is to keep recording.

Roger, I just got a rebuilt kit from Radar a month ago. It came with all (same type) the parts your showing

I'm with JTH, Use 09 scores Use USAWS ranking system one entry per month, high score entered (easy to track using ranking sym) no brainer....except the spreed sheet

rfa, I just rolled into M5 and was on an MPD, if you get a chance try the Strada! Sit's down in the water just like the MPD but carves a sweeeet line. No user input coming into and out of the ball. I haven't tried it yet but I bet if I jumped back on my MPD I'd be thinking "What a Dog"

 rfa  Welcome to BOS. Post as often as u like. Running -32 is a good score. Red Diablos are a sick looking setup. What brand of stick are u riding?ÂÂ

Hey John, It's the last day of April

Scot, That was a good one, and just like Shane I was LMAO while reading it Couldn't wait to change pages

Ed, Use head to measure, one thing about the Strada the tail is squared off and not rounded. While taking the measurment only apply enough thumb pressure to allow you to slightly rock your caliber back and fourth until you feel it square up with the tail of the ski. Increase your thumb pressure(hold the caliber down in place). To me with this method I can repeat the reading several times without fail. Not sure if it's the best method but it is repeatable. Try it

Ed, Ditto what Roger said, I went from rubber to hardshell to the RS1's. This is my third season in them and will tell you easy entry, easy exit, with all the comfort and edge control you'll need.ÂÂ

Eric, I can tell you that I know for a fact that these inserts are opened on the end and yes I've applied antisieze to the threads. Without question I like the option's that are availible and do not buy ski's that do not have them. I am a firm believer in setting up a ski and not tweeking each time the wind blows but I'm not there yet so I'm moving things around. I felt like the tape was a good option for this. My thoughts are to prevent water entry and just wanted to throw it out on the table and see what everyone else does. Was also hoping one of the rep's might comment about water entry.ÂÂ

Well that blows........

My binding setup is RS1's on the single plate. If your ski has inserts and you use this kind if plate there are unused inserts on your ski. I used the blue tape used for painting to cover these unused holes. Easy on and easy off without residue. Last night at the lake I moved my bindings forward 1/8". This move required me to use the unused inserts. I simply poked the screws thru the blue tape and didn't bother to cover the unused inserts. I also know that with the newer A1's depending on your binding choice there are unused inserts for that ski. So what's everyone's thoughts about unused inserts and water entering the core of the ski?   ÂÂ

One other thing Ed. I'm with you about the single plate concept. If my ski where to break in half, no matter what brand, I want both bindings attached to a single plate and hopefully avoid what happened to Jenifer. Superman make the comment some time back and has stuck with me.

Ed, That's the reason I replied the way I did. I tried to answer your Question. DW's method makes more sense and is a lot quicker. One thing to remember is that their are multiple holes for the horseshoe in the plate. Be sure to identify what holes are used when you drill.

DW, Smart *ss! Only kidding, good answer

Ed, You ask for it so here we go!  Go to a local office supply and pick up a pad of isometric paper (aka Iso. Paper) and the tape used for holding down drafting paper.  Iso paper has horizontal, vertical, 30 & 120 degree lines on it and is also used for tracing.  Remove the D3 plate from the binding.  Using a single sheet or starting with the pad. Place the plate on the pad, right side up. Use the iso lines to square the plate up on the paper and trace a line around the plate. Tape the plate to the paper.  Turn the plate/paper over and use a soft leaded pencil to shadow in all of the mounting holes for the binding. (remember doing this as a kid with a piece of paper and penny)  Remove the plate from the paper. Write the words “This side up†in the middle of your tracing. Cut all the excess paper off following the line you drew around the plate.  This will be the template to transfer the mounting holes to the radar plate.  Scribe a line down the middle of the radar plate. Place the template on the plate (with the right side up) and center it up using the iso lines. Not sure about fore and aft this one’s on you buddy.  Tape the template to the plate. Place the plate on a stable flat surface. Use a center punch and hammer to mark all of the mounting holes. (Be sure to be in the center of the shadowed area’s)  Remove the template from the plate. Use a drill press and drill all of the mounting holes. More than most likely you will also want to countersink the holes.  Use some sandpaper to remove any spur’s left behind during drilling. Mount your binding to the plate.  Disclaimer:  Never tried it…but this is how I would do it.

Mike, The only difference in numbers that Eddie gave me for a 67 was lenght being 6.840 and for now these numbers are sweet. Just remember my friend this ski loves counter rotation, comes around real nice and hooks up even better.ÂÂ

If your going to use that style of rope get a hacksaw and cut that thing off. It's meant to be used as an easy connect/disconnect of the handle bridle. It will only get you/someone hurt

Mike, I've got a 67 and loving it so far. Don't have many sets on it and the wind hasn't been very freindly. Nothing to write home about but it's effortless to ride. No skier input to make it turn but bites hard if you drop a shoulder. Doesn't stall when it bites so you need to be set if you do. Hoping for warmer water and the wind to turn so things will start to flowÂÂ