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Roger

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Everything posted by Roger

  1. Specifically, ZO compared to PP Classic: 1) Gate timing is different (though not nearly as bad as last year when ZO came through the gate at 34.2 while PP Classic came through at 34.7). 2) Too much time at the buoy. I've been experimenting with the switch to emulate, but can't seem to get it perfect. 3) ZO is brutal if you get late and try to catch up by pulling hard. Instead of slowing the boat (so maybe a 95 becomes a 97 or 17:00), the boat adds throttle and where with PP you arrived at the next buoy after pulling hard at about the same width as a normal pull, with ZO you arrive late and fast. Tonight, I tried to make PP as brutal as possible. I went out an ran a couple of 28s at KX Normal (my usual). Then I ran one at KX+, then one at KX++, then two 32s at KX++, then 3.5@35 at KX++. Even with this setting, I skied more consistently than I do when I ski behind ZO (I had never tried KX+ or KX++ before tonight). The only skiers I know skiing consistently with ZO and weigh over 170lbs either own a ZO boat or have access to ski several sets with ZO before each tournament (present company excepted of course). I plan to continue using KX++ and running hot times going forward to see if I can get some edge on ZO when I ski tournaments. If not, I will simply not ski them anymore... I have another 3rnd tournament at Miami this weekend two more practice sets Thursday night, so we'll see how KX++ does for preparation. BTW, I really mean I'm happy for you, not that you're strange /vanillaforum/js/tinymce/jscripts/tiny_mce/plugins/emotions/images/smiley-smile.gif
  2. Well, you're an anomaly based on the data I've been collecting, but I'm happy for you.
  3. jwr, what is your practice average and what did you run in the tournament? Also, division/speed?
  4. That has been my observation. Skiers of around 170lbs and under are not impacted by the new system nearly as much as those over that weight. Looking at our tournament from this weekend, virtually all the lighter skiers (that don't own ZO boats) skied much closer to their practice averages than those of us who wiegh more. It seems that at 185lbs, I either need to drop 15lbs or drop 40k on a new boat or ski perfectly without ANY MISTAKES. The frustration of all this has already caused me to withdraw from Regionals and Nationals this year and I'm seriously considering dropping tournament skiing all together.
  5. Google analytics if set up right is pretty accurate. We use their stuff and Yahoo's on our retail sites. I looked at this page's source view and you appear to have the correct script installed. However, Google recommends installing the script between the closing form and closing body tags. You appear to have the script installed in the head section. The original Google directions did have the script in the head section, but they changed this to the closing form/body tags a little over a year ago. Our analytics seemed to get more accurate after making this change (IE: The number of hits and click through rate seem to better match our actual sales).
  6. I have been using the RS1 radius handle for about 6 months now and couldn't agree more. I bought a 2nd one for backup last month. One thing I really like besides what's mentioned above is how small the bridle Y is, you cannot get your head through it /vanillaforum/js/tinymce/jscripts/tiny_mce/plugins/emotions/images/smiley-cool.gif I don't care for the inserts for this, I just don't let go of the handle until the boat takes it.
  7. Back to basics. Keep your knees well bent and let your arms out straight. Maintain that position until the boat pulls the ski onto plane. Then stand up. You're most likely trying to stand up before the ski has come on plane and wearing yourself out.
  8. Emulation of ZO with PP Classic. I use ZO B1 in tournaments. The closest match I've found with PP Classic is KX Normal, PX15. I think anything in the ZO A group would require KX- and anything in the C group would require KX+ or KX++. In all cases, a PX of at least 15 is required IMO as you have a lot more time at the ball with any of the ZO settings compared to PP without any PX.
  9. I wonder if it varies from boat to boat within the same brand, because at our tournement the Mastercraft was considered the better pull over the Nautique. We had no Malibu, but I can tell you from last year that the Malibu (2008 model) felt softer then the other two with BOTH SG and ZO to me. I use B1 on both the Nautique and the Mastercraft and I preferred the Mastercraft slightly in that I thought it hooked up out of the turns slightly softer. I agree about the gate speed. We had 14 missed gates last year (all time record for a tournament at Okeeheelee) and none this year.
  10. Anyone notice the line pretty much falls in the water at each turn? Impressive run, but I wonder how much of a toll it's taking on his body over time...
  11. #6 simply means that there will be a LCQ tournament where to qualify you must at least equal the (average I think) score of the 5th seeded athlete who has been invited. It would appear that whoever that is has achieved a score of 2.5@10.25m. Chris Rossi posted on his forum that though the 3@41 he ran at Okeeheelee on May 2nd was a good score, he had to do that score in the LCQ in order to go to the Masters. The way I read the rule, he would "only" need 2.5@41.
  12. At 135lbs, I'd go with the 88. That's what two of my friends use and they weigh 135 to 140. I'm on a 106 at 185lbs.
  13. Both open skiers into 41, Jason 1.5, Chris 3 Chet in Master Men, 1.5 @ 41
  14. Just looks like you ran out of Carbon Fins to me.../vanillaforum/js/tinymce/jscripts/tiny_mce/plugins/emotions/images/smiley-frown.gif
  15. I can never remember which one is the from leg and which one is the to leg...
  16. The full results are posted on Okeeski.com (click on Tournament Schedule on the left menu).
  17. I really like my RS-1s (I know Boody had some issues, but most have not that I have seen or read about). I took a close look at the E-Series last week while out at Okeeheelee as someone showed up there with a set. I didn't try them or anything, but they look every bit as safe (the release mechanism looks fine to me) and comfortable as what I'm riding, so I'd think you would be fine with whichever you prefer.
  18. He said he was number 48 on the sign up.... Big Dawg Entries
  19. Whose RS-1s did you see that were tearing up??? I've been on mine for more than a year now (8 sets a week) and they show no signs of wear period. The info about comfort could not be more wrong either. There are no screws to get into your feet as you describe. People are wearing superfeet for comfort and/or to add volume inside the liner. They are the most comfortable binding's I've skied on.I've taken every type fall including the extreme out the front since I got them and I've always stayed all in or come all out. Exactly what I want. The E Series look to be a good design to me, so I'm not attacking them at all. I personally like the simplicity of the RS-1 system better (no releasable cuff mechanism).ÂÂ
  20. I agree with Richard. The RS-1 system (if it fits you ok) is excellent. I also don't heat-mold my liners and I use a superfeet (Green) inside each liner. The key to the release is having a bit of elasticity remaining after pulling the laces to tension. So make sure you have enough orthotic or whatever in the liner to allow that. I've now been on mine for more than a year and they are everything I want in a waterski binding system. 1) Can't pre-release. 2) Super comfortable. 3) They have released when I needed them to and I've taken about every type fall I would worry about. 4) Designed for waterskiing. There is no corrosion on anything, period. 5) Incredible support from Radar. They sent me the new thicker plate, extra bushings (they do wear down after a while), and answered all my questions without charge or fuss. It will take a bit of time to make the transition from rubber bindings (just like any hard shell setup). Find the thread on here about the RS-1s and follow the advice there on mounting them. Basically, you should put your feet in your current bindings and mark the ski where your ankle bone is for each binding. Then set up the RS-1s as closely as possible to those marks (again with your feet in the RS-1s, line up with the marks). If you rotate your rear rubber binding, rotate the rear RS-1 as well. I found eventually, that rotating the front RS-1 about 1/8" to the little toe side helped my onside. Enjoy!
  21. I'm riding a 67" RS-1 right now and it's working fine. I'd like to try a 68" though and from John's comments, it might be the better choice for me. The Elite would result in my own divorce and like the Warp, I'd have to see several people pick up several buoys to make it worth it (I haven't seen that from the Warp at all though most that own it like it. You just have to remember that they just unloaded more than 3 grand on it so might be a bit biased).
  22. That's what I wanted to hear. I think the 68" might be better for me as well. Maybe Jeff will bring one down next weekend and I can give it a try. I'm not unhappy with the Fish, just seems like the RS-1 requires less input from me to get the same turn.
  23. If you don't mind my asking, what is your weight (or how much was it when you were riding the 68 RS-1)? I'm about 185 and riding a 67" RS-1 which is working quite well (demo ski). Haven't been able to get my hands on a 68 to try yet.
  24. I'll entertain deals after selling the Fish. Unless John wants to trade the 68 straight up...
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