Gloersen

http://www.pcmengines.com/images/engines/zr409_for_web.jpg When it comes to performance, the new PCM ZR-409 is the flagship of the line-up. Incredibly powerful yet fuel efficient, the ZR-409 is rated at 409 horsepower and when equipped with PCMʼs famous Power Plus 1.23:1 transmission, it makes an incredible 492 foot-pounds of torque. The ZR-409 features PCMʼs new HO exhaust system, has high performance aluminum heads, and is freshwater cooled. The distributorless ignition with platinum tip spark plugs stretches maintenance intervals into years. The serpentine belt system and modular raw water pump make routine maintenance a snap. The stainless steel pump is tough and specially engineered for the demands of the marine environment. The ZR-409 is super quiet, incredibly smooth, and provides neck-snapping performance. And for all this power, the ZR6 still runs on standard octane fuel while the competitionʼs high performance engines require premium. According to PCM from WSM article: supposedly more fuel efficient than the 343 and about the same weight. Skied & pulled 180 lb skier SN 200 with 343. Revs to ~4700 rpm before ZO kicks in adequately, then anywhere from 4050 to 4400 range at 34mph with a strong skier. Hard to imagine fuel economy won't be worse than SN196 with the same motor running much less rpm: we shall see. For complete specifications and features, click here.Â

Tried these #’s for grins. class=apple-style-span>2.449 - 7.004 - .587 wing upside-down at 9 degrees, close to what you posted, a radical change from .74 – 6.871 – 2.5. Ran a couple 28’s surprisingly, though the offside was too much & onside required too much effort. Changed to 2.456 – 6.990 - .587, ran some decent 28’s but to much deceleration into offside to shorten line.  Reminiscent of the slot fin feel this far back & long. Concur the ski works well at a wide range of fin settings & the offside seems to always be there

To reiterate Deanoski's statement: "I can pull my rear foot out easy when done skiing" IMO, that is key if using a Reflex. Initially I’d used an Approach rear with loose bungie for the front laces, but even with a Reflex releases setting of 5.5, had a couple of buoy strikes that created release with the back foot remaining in. Have since switched to a Wiley rear which offers good, snug support but in a significant fall, stuffing the tip, or at the end of the set; the rear foot comes out comparatively easily. Reflex release setting now 5, at 180 release when necessary but seemingly not too easily.

still liking 6.870, tried a few thousandths longer, not as good for now. adding depth to 2.503 just need to learn to ski instead of backsiding the 2nd wake

Hope the fall wasn't bad. Have broken 3, 1 attributable to > 1 season at pylon, the other 2 where the end imbricates back into the braid in the shorter segments, both < 6 months, both the same "reputable" brand. Don't use that brand anymore for practice. I find the "In Tow" ropes quite good. After reading your post though, due for another. 40/50 adjusts here Sat/Sun, & a bit of trepidation 1 week post head wound; not ideal tuning conditions. The ski is fast though. Next move will be a try with bindings back up to 30/17.675 to see if speed can be bled a bit into offside without having to jump on the front which I was finding with -32’s, particularly in tailwind.

You're on RS1's? FB less than 30"? The ski seems to work well at various fin dimensions, but I found stock providing too much tip pressure. Wondering if Reflex setup provides more tip pressure than RS1's.

Scalp wounds tend to be quite vascular, but consequently don’t too often get infected; hopefully this one won’t pus out. Not too painful after initial impact, anticipating some bad habits got knocked out of the head. Closed with about 10 subcutaneous monofilament sutures to re-approximate frontalis to galea, then a running subcuticular nylon. If scars are chick magnets; this will be Neodymium. Just need some bolts installed on both sides of the neck. Mechanism: I’m 90% certain the fall was a user error equipment mishap. I distinctly recall a clicking sensation either on the drop at the end of the lake (after prior 2B spill) or with the start rounding the island. Never have had a partial release that would dupe me into not realizing the release clasp was loose or not firmly seated. It is difficult for that to be conceivable; the Reflex mechanism is either all intact or unlatched. However, I use a bit of Velcro between the shell & the plate, otherwise, even when properly seated & clamped, the heel will move a tad from side to side as evidenced by the wear on the shell when rubbing against the release bracket bolts on either side. When examining the Reflex, the clamp can release, but still be right up against the bar and with the Velcro it stayed on the ski when I replaced foot in rear binding in the water. I think that is what happened on a fall around 2B on the prior attempt. Reproducing this on land demonstrates what that “clicking†sensation I felt was before the fall. So basically started, pulled-out, traversed the gates, then had a strong 1B all with the Reflex clamp not attached! As soon as the ski loaded off 1B I could feel my hardshell slide off the ski’s left side (the edge side), it seemed like that occurred before the 1st wake. Then everything exploded. There is a little damage to the top laminate/ upper side on the left edge of the ski where the cuff bolt of the hardshell hit the ski as it slid off the left edge when loading. Now have to mend with epoxy & clamps, brand new ski, kind of sucks. Remedy: style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Verdana","sans-serif";mso-fareast-font-family: Verdana;mso-bidi-font-family:Verdana'>1.) style='font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'> style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Verdana","sans-serif"'>When a foot comes out, even if rear, get back on boat platform to check Reflex clamp intact. style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Verdana","sans-serif";mso-fareast-font-family: Verdana;mso-bidi-font-family:Verdana'>2.) style='font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'> style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Verdana","sans-serif"'>Modify rear Wiley so foot stays in a bit better style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Verdana","sans-serif";mso-fareast-font-family: Verdana;mso-bidi-font-family:Verdana'>3.) style='font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'> style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Verdana","sans-serif"'>Karate Helmet style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Verdana","sans-serif";mso-fareast-font-family: Verdana;mso-bidi-font-family:Verdana'>4.) style='font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'> style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Verdana","sans-serif"'>Superglue to seal wound; ski Wednesday? Thankful not an eye. style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Verdana","sans-serif"'>

ST: how about " class=apple-style-span> style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:red'>Slicing Tomahawk " Fell at 2b, back foot came out & instead of getting on platform, put on in water. On next pass attempt felt some kind of clicking on the start, ignored it, then had a big 1B and the front Reflex felt like it just came right off at maximum load. Somehow the tip of the ski (I assume) gashed the forehead. A shame to have had to waste the great water conditions today. Plus opening set felt great, .74 has helped the onside a lot (back from .745) style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:black'>Currently .74/6.870/2.5/8; quite decent.

Assuming typo & you meant 6.93. Sticking with 6.870 here and adjusting DFT to onside. The shorter fin from stock seems to help me keep the ski out front through the pre-turn as well as gain width behind the boat. The more sets I put on it, the better the offside continues to be.

Roger: No dis ever taken from these blogs; always appreciate any info gathered to help shorten the line and to offer any informative opinion. Good luck in Palm Bay, maybe you'll be right behind Chet in the RO! Z7ST is GOOD!

The Reflex is a reliable releasing binding if the setting is not too high. That said, if it is used in combo with a rear that doesn't allow the foot to come out easily, like a D3 highwrap, then one may find themselves tightening the release setting on the Reflex binding too much to avoid the dreaded front foot out/rear foot in spill. I found this to be the case when using a rear Approach until I converted the lace to class=SpellE>bungie cord. However, even with this I have stricken the ball a couple times resulting in front foot release and rear still in. A rear toe plate is probably safest with the Reflex, can't do it personally, but have since switched to a modified Wiley rear which permits easy foot release (but still keeps the heel down) and thus allowing the Reflex release setting to be set reasonably low.

DFT measured flat/head with a homemade slot caliper. Zeroed at back of fin, then to tail; very reproducible. 2 more sets today, okay they were just 28’s again, but 6.870 seems a very workable length, leaving D at 2.5, still might go back a bit more as 1/3/5 (heelside) are just a tad too abrupt. Toeside turns are very good on this ski (imho). I’ll have to try running some -38’s on Saturday to test the true “carryout†ability; that is the ability of my compadres to carry me out on a stretcher after I try, that will be the only carryout I’ll get at purple. Despite the various levels of proficiencies qualifying one to describe a ski’s inherent characteristics; I can say that (for me) compared to the ’05 X-5, ‘06 Nomad, Monza (’07 & ’08), the A1, & the Elite, the Z7ST is a ride that has given me the greatest “confidence†when skiing balls to the wall (if that can be done at -28). style='mso-spacerun:yes'> Still have 8 days to send it back to D3 (not). I expect to be class=GramE>seeing  some blues at tournaments this year on this ski.

Tried 6.870/2.50/.750, FB 30". It was decent FB 29.875" 2nd set; better onside. Tried 6.878 4th set = too much offside, ski getting behind & lost out bound direction off 2nd wake. The 6.870/2.50/.750 are good numbers to build upon. The ski is freed up well past 2nd wake, turns surprisingly well on the offside, keeps the ski out front. Will try back with fin a bit to slow the gates down a tad and have a little more tip into 1B. jdarwin: good info.

class=apple-style-span>jdarwin style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Trebuchet MS";color:black'> - I will try increasing DFT for grins to .750, should "free it up" quite a bit. At 6.870 suspect will need to go forward with Reflex front. It will be interesting to see how the offside turns with that little tip & that far forward. Are you on a 67"? If Reflex front, at 30"? From where on the Reflex do you measure? Using the wing at 7? Thanks.

Usually find setup best for me is a little longer on both length & DFT from stock on prior skis, but wanted to free up the Z7STa bit, looking at another post by jdarwin on Z7 (generation1), thought I'd try back & shorter; it is better. Better speed control through gates and seems to carry out better with fin back & shorter. Still turns great. Found diminishing returns at DFT 0.73/ L 6.870/ D 2.495, good angle but hard to get wide (slide?); probably too little FSA. Just need good weather & course time now.

Roger: at 180 on a 67". Eager to hear your report & settings.

Last D3 I rode was in "06 on the original Nomad. This ski is MUCH BETTER! Coming off Elite (couldn't tame it), feels similar in some ways, but perhaps decels better in the pre-turn.

style='font-size:14.0pt;color:red'>Z7ST Doubt this thread will generate the response of the Strada, but the Z7ST rocks! Good ski, suspect it will be well-received. Likes to be skied aggressively :) but doesn’t punish going into turn. Carries out well; can be very w&e but without good handle control, one will beeline to the ball. Then, stay in the reach = IS GOOD! 16 sets, all -28’s/34, different fin & binding settings for 8 of those sets, hit openers in all but 4, good for my level & indicates to me the inherent predictability of the ski. Plus water is still cold <64, limitations of suit, etc. Getting it dialed in real well is pending warmer weather. Started with: Reflex 30†(measured from back of hinge mounting bracket) Wiley 17.675†DFT 0.74/D 2.506/L 6.905/W 7 Now: 29.875/17.375 DFT 0.73/D 2.498/ L 6.875/ W 8 Getting closer. Counting on this ski to get it done this season, so far; very encouraging. style='font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Interested to see what others arrive at for setup.

href="http://insideedge.waterskimag.com/2010/02/18/zerooff-settings-slalom-success/">Mapple ABC123

2nd the ShadowBoxTM type gps speed/course plot tracking device conjecture. Tried to get similar data with a Garmin Forerunner 305, but the update frequency was inadequate, although one velocity data point was logged at 107mph, probably from a flailing arm after a spill. Could provide great data exploited as a coaching tool. That combined with a device logging line load vs. time could be quite useful; more buoys??? Definitely more $$$, maybe it will cost way less than $500 ( class=SpellE>ShadowBoxTM), otherwise we'll have to wait & hear from Horton as to how valuable it is.

Regarding the Elite, I concur; fin changes seem to yield results that are disparate from whatconventional dictum would predict. This seems most notable with regard tochanges in settings that would be most appreciable in the offside turn as wellas generating width. After getting the bindings where I think they should be,I’ve been all over the place with the fin on the 67†Elite. At .795/2.508/6.835/8 wasripping pretty well, but too much handle control required, no room for evenmarginal separation, otherwise, heading back in & narrow to the ball,despite starting out quite wide. With “adequate†handle control could head to2B wide & early, initiate a strong offside/backside the 2B turn and rip,yet too many times would skip out the tail or get high-sided. One might thinktake out length or increase DFT to alleviate that (less tip pressure), butthose were the changes being made without success. So, based on “favoredâ€Âsettings in the blogs, went to .785/2.511/6.838/8 and offside turns are betterwith less tail slide and width is better both directions, even 1B turnssmoother and more angle off the ball (LFF); opposite result of what I wouldhave expected. What may be a manifestation of less than ideal fin settings in these skis wider in the forebody; jumping on the front in the turns, especially offside, to compensate for the lack of tip pressure that otherwise would ensue from a more properly tuned fin. By “jumping†on the front in the offsidepre-turn the inside leading edge of the “wider†ski bites in a progressivelyasymmetric manner and the ski either finishes too strong and one getshigh-sided or the tail blows out. At first thought, one would think; finishingthe offside too strong or blowing out the tail equates to needing less finlength or moving it forward. Yet (at least for me) moving the fin back andadding length has improved the offside by permitting me to stay “balanced†onthe ski and still come out of the turn with good tip pressure and better angleas well as width. I did not notice this on the A-1; it seemed to allow me to get away with jumping on the front and many timesI could pull off a “comeback†offside turn, but with the A-1, if the fin wasnot long enough, no matter how much I stepped on the front, it was difficult togenerate a decent offside turn. On the A-1 if I added too much length though, Iwould get robbed of width. The Elite does not seem to behave this way (myimpression is that Elite does not reward the technique of jumping on thefront); if the fin is not long enough or back enough, now and then some decent offsides could be obtained by pressuring the front, but waytoo inconsistent. It could also be that somehave more roll stability being wider and thus the shallower fin settings may bepreferred. Using Approaches initially on the Elite, anything deeper than 2.508made edge change seem sluggish, but with Reflex seems like deeper does notnegatively affect edge change until about 2.512 (but water is cooler now). Sure there is more to itall, but how “wide skis†affect the perception of fin settings & changes,IMHO.

DFFT or distance from front of fin to tail (jaws), helpful in comparison for those using the slot fin. Also more consistent than conventional DFT. Time on the ski at the posted settings (# sets, weeks, or months, etc.) Data posted after only a few sets of "experience" are of less value, imho

It will be interesting to see the replies. Could be that with the extra torque/HP of the Zr6 you are not creating much reduction in rpm during the max load phase; compared with the 5L, the relatively greater reduction in rpm imparted, especially if you load hard off the ball, is met with a throttle response that propels a skier into the subsequent pre-turn providing the sensation of "breaking free". You might consider trying a switch, since using PP, and maybe KX-/PX15, to make the Zr6 provide some extra rpm kick off the ball at load and determine if this provides that "break free" experience. Easy to try compared to to reducing torque with a different prop.

NO. "Step ahead counter-rotation" is screwy enough. Though further elaboration on shooting the ski might be interesting. Although there are times when the idea of breaking out the Remington 870 and unloading all 7 into my ski has been tempting, but suspect this is not aligned, technically or politically, with WCS.

Tore gastrocnemius/soleus at aponeurotic junction. Grade 2 or less hopefully. Pre-ski stretched, nonetheless an unexpected and sudden incident after loading out of 2B. Was finally getting in a zone on this Elite the last 6 sets too. Good reference link for those with similar setbacks. http://www.sportsinjuryclinic.net/cybertherapist/back/backlowerleg/calfstrain.htm