thompjs

I'm on a 69in X7. Ski works nice for me. I'm always fighting the tendency to tail ride and the ski will still turn if you are a bit back in the turn.

A few years ago in Water Ski mag there was article on rebuilding a late 70's or early 80's MC and they used pickup bed liner spray. Looked like a good idea.

Is your course visible on Google Earth? If it is that far off you can tell with the Ruler option. I've used the Ruler on courses I personally set and surveyed and I can get within a few inches of the correct distances between buoys.

Boarditup, you are right. For heavy clays use 4oz non woven geotextile fabric. Mirafi is one brand.

We planted Pampas Grass, which choke out all of the weeds and other plants. At least in our area it works. For slalom on our place it works out nice to have an up and around. The way the islands are offset to the same side allows trickers the full length of the lake for runs. We have heavy clay as well. Often putting barriers near the shore causes more turbulence that increases the erosion. Some sort of system to break up the waves a few feet (5 to 10) away may be a solution. We found the a dock post within a few feet of the shore will create more erosion right around it that the rest of untreated shoreline. When we redid our docks after the drain and muck out a few years ago we made sure we bridged out to the main dock and set the walkway posts about 2 feet up the bank.

https://picasaweb.google.com/JimSThompson/Phase2# The last few pictures show Bull Rock (similar to River Rock) about 3in size placed on 4oz Geotextile fabric. This does not move at all. Depending on your soil type and rip rap size, not using a geotextile fabric may actually make the erosion worse. Also there are some shots of using Geotextile and sackcrete bags to armor small turn islands. Contact me at jim at lsfdev.com if you need more info

bmiller, I'm on 69 X7, nowhere near your level, but I've gone to less fin than than they recommend. Felt much better. @34 mph

Distance to zero buoy: If you read about where skiers actually cross down course after 1 or 2 you'll find the zero bouy needs to be moved back a bit. It should be about 18m from the entrance gates. 27m + 18m = 45m. vs. 41m from 1 ball gates. What I've found is that I go way around it at 22off, just past it at 28, right on or behind it at 32. If you are going to experiment with this for shorter lines you might move it in from the 2, 4, 6 line for 32off and shorter, depending on your style you may run over it.

Shane, I was with you till number 3. Not sure how I'm going to do that.

dsmart, thanks. When I got ski, checked fin and boots at stock settings. Could not make it to one ball on opener. Moved boots foward one hole, helped some. Added tip, then moved fin back a touch and that has helped some. Occasionally I'll run some passes, then I'm totally lost after that. It does not like any pressure on the back in the turns. Being an old school guy (trying to change), any reversion to old school and ski does not turn. Last night, I got a bit too much tip in during preturn on offside and ski skipped out. Should have got off it after first set, wasted two weeks on it.

I'm trying 69in Vice now. Very sensitive ski to your fore aft balance. Sweet spot for turns and pulls is very, very small. Ski is very fast, but you have to be right over it all the time. I'm going to get some other skis to see if there is something more forgiving.

Using trucks to stretch ropes is very dangerous. You have no idea how much load you are putting on the rope. If you put enough load on it you may weaken it. Also it may break and whip someone standing nearby. This is an old wives tale from the old days of skiing -- don't do it. The grade and size of rope we are using today does not need anything but a few passes down the lake.

Come and see us. Here are few pics of the Phase 2 site. We always have dinner and drinks for everyone after skiing on Sat. Hope to see you

Western Wood

MasterCraft Skis Ski Tech