Justin_C

For what it's worth, I was looking for new bindings last year and I have always skied with the rtp and was thinking of changing to double boots because of the safety issues. Many people suggested I stay on the rtp as I have a tendency to move my back heal a lot. I ended up getting the Radar Vector boot which I find I can leave surprisingly loose without noticing and paired it with the HO lace up rtp (the Radar one is pretty well the same thing, I just liked the look of the HO more). The lace up allows me to cinch my rear foot in pretty good yet still move my heal. Whether it really helps in a crash has yet to be determined (thankfully), however it does give me more piece of mind.

So this morning we went out and opened the engine compartment only to find a pool of motor oil. We eventually isolated it to the oil pan at the bottom of the engine. There is a bolt that comes up through the hull from the rear-most tracking fin that is so close to the oil pan that you would be hard pressed to fit a piece of paper between the two, if they aren't touching. My best guess is that over time the oil pan has rusted (boat is a '97) and then in rough water the bolt finally punctured through it. It's not a huge hole, just dripping but I cannot figure out why they (MB Sports with PCM GT-40) would put the oil pan so close to those bolts. We have a plan to fix it (in theory) but I was just wondering if anyone has heard of, and/or experienced this?

 

Thanks

Thank you for all your suggestions. The boat is running again... well was running again... other issues this time. We replaced the fuel filter, cleaned out and incredibly clogged anti-siphon tube (not the valve but the screen at the end of the tube; in fact the fuel that was in the tube wouldn't even drain out the screen filter when we took it off), and cleaned out the flame arrestor. Now to deal with a hole in the oil pan...

Thanks though!!

 

 

It's an MB Sports Boss 200. I think we'll just stick to changing the filter for now cause I we don't really want to get into dealing with the fumes and what not that come with that much fuel.

How do you go about putting water in the buoys?

 

Thanks for your input. I got a fuel filter but before I put it in I want to drain the fuel in case I have a bad batch that has clogged the previous filter. Any suggestions for how to drain the tank?

 

Anyone have any experience with fixing a rooster tail at 15 off? It's probably about a foot and a half tall at least and is at its worst at 15 off. Could it just be a weight distribution issue? Prop issue? Or is it just something that this boat does and there's nothing I can do to fix it? It flattens out nicely when I turn but I don't know what to do to fix it when I go straight. The boat is a 97 MB Sports Boss 200LS.

Thanks

My problem is that my engine is bogging down when I get up to speed. After talking to a mechanic and doing some research online, I see it is a common problem and the easiest fix may be a fuel filter. Another option was to have the injectors cleaned. My question is more, would this contribute to the engine running what would seem to be abnormally high rpms? I was running it at around 32-36mph and then rpms were up at ~4000. If this doesn't sound like the fuel problem, what could it be? Or is there a simple adjustment that can be made?

 

Thanks

Thanks Ed,

It's actually not a telescopic design so that discounts that. I'm thinking the best way may be to add the beginner buoy. I've tried floating some foam buoys on really short ropes in the middle of the sag but it seems like I either get too much floating and it brings it to the surface or not enough and there is still a major sag. I also thought of adding weight to the ends of the arms because when I added the middle buoy it cause all of my turn buoys to float way too high.

And I can't remember what size/schedule the PVC is. Thanks for all the suggestions too. I'll certainly give some of these a try.

This is the same design as what I have (which is why I think it is an EZ-slalom mainline). The arm goes out to the side obviously and is sagging in the middle (if this helps answer any of the questions)

The design is just the usual PVC pipe arms and they are attached to another smaller PVC that holds the boat guides. I bought it from someone else who built it so I can't take the credit, haha. I believe the mainline is an EZ-slalom but I can't say for sure. I don't have any pictures of it on land but my plan is to leave it in for the summer and remove it for the winter.

Not sure that this is in the right category but I'll ask anyway. I have a portable course on my lake and I'm having a really tough time keeping the buoy arms straight under water. They have a huge bow in them even after adding some extra buoys in the middle of the arms to try and float them a little. I went out a couple days ago to try and get a rough measurement, and according to my math, the course may be as much as 2 feet narrow (mind you my measurements were done on a windy day buy tying string to the boat guide and pulling it to the turn ball and marking it, then measuring it on land). This course is home made so I guess my question is two-fold. Are there any suggestions for keeping the arms straight, and, do companies such as insta-slalom make their arms longer to account for the bending of the arms?

 

Looking at a "new" boat and looking for opinions on the 1997 MB Sports LS200. How does it compare to the same year MB 190? Also, how would it compare to a 1992 Mastercraft Prostar 205 (Also being considered)?

 

Thanks

Also, thanks Wish. I was wondering what the buyers guide said but couldn't find that one.

Thanks for the input. Swc5150- We are not necessarily in a hurry but location is key. I'm in New Brunswick Canada so I am mostly looking through Maine and NH.

It's a Ski Centurion LaPoint (I guess I forgot to include that)

 

Looking at buying a 1995 Ski Centurion but can't find much for reviews/information on it. Has anyone had any experience with one or any knowledge about them?

 

Thanks!

Thanks for the input. I got things figured out and it wasn't the fin settings that were causing it (well they may have been contributing) but I just moved the bindings back one hole from 28.5 to 28.25 and it all went away. Stupid me for not listening... "Always move the bindings before the fin"

I'm looking at new bindings and am wondering people's opinions on the HO Animals, Wiley's and the Radar Vector boots, both as double boots or with a rear toe. I've been skiing on O'Brien Contact bindings so they're quite similar to the Animal's but I'm kind of leaning towards Wiley's for the price tag and safety. The Radar boots just look kind of nice but I don't know what they're like as far as performance. Opinions?

I will post some video once I figure out how to shrink the file size a bit

 

I find one of the biggest things with my skiing is that I have trouble skiing into the handle. I am always grabbing the handle way too early and high. When I try to work on skiing into the handle I feel very off balance and quite awkward. Any suggestions for skiing into the handle and pulling from down low?

oh the old thong set up. I bought some shorts that did that last summer. I'm pretty sure I blinded some people with my pale white thighs. Anyway, I gave the double boots a try and don't think it will be too bad to get used to, however, my ski was acting up (hence my more recent discussion) so I figured I'd go back to what I know until I can get that figured out and then put the doubles back on.

would bringing the fin back at all help? Also, I brought my front binding back, should that help with it at all or should I bring it forward, if anything. From what I'm reading, that hopping sounds like there isn't enough pressure on the tip. If this is the case, I should probably put it back to centre, if not move it ahead a bit eh? (yes, I'm Canadian) Anyway, I really want to figure this out but my ankle has blown up like a balloon from my crash earlier so I probably won't get a chance to test out any changes until the middle of the week or next weekend.