mwetskier

on the subject of large cash deposits most people think you can simply break it up into smaller deposits under $10k until the big pile of dough is all safely tucked away in the bank but thats actually a federal crime called ' structuring '. you'd be a lot better off to spend a little of that wad on a large gun safe tucked under a tarp in the corner of your garage and use the cash on a private-party purchase of your next boat or truck or whatever. after the cash is gone sell the safe or use it to store all your priceless water skiing trophies.

@lpskier -yup, same joke only different. like not wearing a seat belt cuz you wanna be thrown free in case of an accident. not everyone shares our sense of humor tho.

best advice i ever heard about buying a thin non approved ski vest is to choose a bright colored one because it will make it easier to find the body.

did you set it up to stock? if not can you share your numbers?

does it freeze solid in the winter? if so just survey it on the ice which shouldn't cost more than about $500 and then chainsaw your holes and drop in your weights. theres articles on the internet explaining the process and 4 guys can easily put in a course in 6 hours or so .

@cragginshred -if your problem is only pulling the handle back in too soon you could try doing something that would make that impossible -roll the handle to your extreme fingertips as you reach. we know thats possible because there are bunches of pics of pro skiers doing just that and if the handle is right out at your fingertips you sure as hell wont be yanking it back in with any force. disclaimer: just throwing the idea out there -no idea if it will actually work to solve your issue but it was known to work for the goat, as seen here.

i think its indisputable that at maximum load the strongest position to be in is one where both arms are as equally loaded as possible. nate smith has said that he tries to be at 80 per cent load right before the first wake and to do that his chest needs to be almost fully facing down course. since we know his ski is *not* pointed down course there must be some form of upper body / lower body separation which is essentially the result of ' counter ' in the turn. for me if i finish the turn from apex to hook up by driving my inside hip forward through the finish i end up getting the smoothest and strongest hook up without taking a hit. now, remembering to do that consistently in the heat of battle is a different thing all together but countering the last half of the turn definitely helps imo.

the good news is if you do manage to stretch the sock onto your ski, over time the compressing force will add some traditional rocker to that flat thing.

its my take that immediately before you begin to pull out you are standing more or less erect but when you begin your pullout your body must lean to the left - and getting from an erect position to a leveraging lean consumes some amount of time and space. Your goal is to convert as much of the potential energy of your forward momentum (plus the boat's connection to you) into outbound direction and speed as possible. the closer you are to the center of the wake the less potential energy you waste during this transitional lean. i believe this is why the current best slalom skier in the world initiates his pullout from the right edge of the left hand trough.

andy mapple once addressed turning in for the gate at a speed that felt too fast and he replied that no matter how fast he was going if he had a tight light line he could turn the ski.

wow, i posted that? i thought i had just copied it after some one else posted it. i guess getting old sucks... but it still beats the alternative.

a while back some one posted an article written by kris la point that addressed all conceivable placements of the wing and the resulting effects. find that and consider it as gospel. old testament maybe... but still gospel.

two words: thomas moore. 'nuff said.

for durability purposes i would much rather have g10 than full carbon graphite. the carbon is pretty and looks hi tech but its benefit is light weight not durability. i've seen older reflex all carbon plates fail often but if you are some how able to significantly chip or even crack a g10 plate you are definitely doing some thing wrong. on a side note, you can buy thin g10 plate with jet black top and bottom skins for pretty reasonable on ebay. this piece is not big enough for a binding plat but the seller will cut you one that is.

@jcamp -you spelled it wrong. It's not "pros", it's "pos".

@dchristman -good to know about the free shipping from leadwake. however i'm pretty sure a good number of bos members do not live in the united states, and for them the ebay tool bags will undoubtedly be much cheaper. every major hardware store in the world is likely to sell gravel, along with other sources such as construction sites and landscaping suppliers.

pretty simple really -if you do what he did you'll get what he got.

Yeah those vinyl weight bags are nice but if you are no where near michigan and don't want to pay shipping on a couple of 50 lb packages you can buy these bags on ebay - military canvas tool bags - and fill them with washed gravel from your local home depot. each canvas bag will take exactly one 60 lb bag of gravel and they last pretty much forever. they are smaller than they look too.

so far every written review has been prefaced with a video of the ski in action so having access to both is obviously better coverage of the important info. to me this question is like my cellular carrier asking me if i'd like them to reduce the area of non roaming coverage they give me but still charge the same fees.

@nleuth -you can say that again.

the title of this thread reminded me of an old joke which i will alter slightly to fit this thread - this guy is walking down the street holding a brand new water ski when he runs into an old friend. he says ' hey, whadya think of the ski i got for my wife? ' his buddy says ' good trade, man -good trade. '

@JGray -i've known a few ' drywall' stockers ' in my day -the low paid guys who unload flatbed trucks stacked with drywall and manually distribute it thru out new build projects during construction. one man = 2 sheets at a time 2 men = 4 sheets at a time -all day long. those guys are not human.

okay, so on my 2016 radar vapor fin block i converted the left middle mounting screw hole (rff skier). steps were: 1- drill out existing hole with a 7mm or 9/32 drill bit (either will work). 2- run 5/16 x 24 tpi tap though drilled hole. 3- re mount block on ski and insert 1/2 inch long 5/16 x 24 stainless set screw. thats it and it works like magic. the set screw rides against the factory insert so no damage to the top of the ski and the screw itself is pretty much identical to the set screws already being used for tuning stops on the existing block -meaning that you can just use one of those to try it out before running off to your local set screw store. as a bonus 24 threads per inch is very close to 0.040 inch per revolution which means every quarter turn is about a 0.010 inch of travel. so its really easy to figure how much is enough and how much is too much.

sharpie ink is an alcohol based dye and your polypropylene ski rope is impervious to alcohol -unless you put the alcohol in *you* and then do something stupid with the rope. that aside, heres the msds for sharpie permanent ink: http://www.officedepot.com/pdf/msds/517441.pdf

ed at ez slalom would probably explain you would be way ahead to just buy a pre -crimped course center line from him.