BraceMaker

I'll add feather out any cracks and the movers saran wrap on a handle can be used sort of like vacuum bagging starting on one end you get it started then pull tight and around and around with good overlap.  Will squeeze excess resin out of your layup.

15 hours ago, 03RLXi said:

Way outside box thought............. if you want subfloor floatation but don't want to risk foam getting soggy long term how about fill the void with capped plastic bottles before rebuild the floor? Low/zero cost. Might be noisy though.  

While that's probably a bit on the hillbilly end you could probably do that and pour foam around them which would reduce weight/cost of the foam considerably.

Another thing to consider is that if you're in there it wouldn't be terribly complex to install drain bulkheads through the stringers into the bilge, pretty typical on sail boats you don't fill them with foam because that has weight and not too uncommon to have pumps to move water around for ballasting so you could insert bulkheads and sealer the inside of the pocket then glue down the floors and have essentially air float.

I'm in the do or don't crowd.  While I buy the concept of both structural and floatation arguments I have also worked on enough boats where it was completely waterlogged, poorly installed to begin with, and not well bonded to he surface and plenty of photos of boats "with foam" taking a nap on the bottom

I use the starbright but add a bit more boiled linseed oil to it, there is already a mixture of boiled linseed and tung oil in the teak oil but I find a bit more linseed helps it cure a bit quicker otherwise I have trouble keeping up with it through the summer just not enough times that the teak is nice and dry and I don't want to use the boat soon so the extra linseed speeds up the cure.

18 hours ago, Andre said:

Dreads are way cooler then men bun IMO. Bob Marley had dreads!

Leave Corey out of this.

When I use this technique I draw a block with a row of holes in progressive sizes like doing a tolerance test in the material I plan on using.  Then I can do a dry run and pick the tolerance for my part.  Same with any interface dials it in fast because it also depends on other settings in your print.

Another side line of this story is that Tommy's separately is in litigation with their lender with Tommy's having sold some 20 million in inventory that's collateralized with the lender and not reporting those sales.  Which while maybe not simple theft indicates that they are quite behind on their bills.

The other interesting bit is that part of Malibu's claim is that their agreement with Malibu was for a 65/35 Malibu/Axis product split but that Malibu hadn't been delivering the Axis boats agreed upon.  So while the focus here is on Malibu it is possible that Malibu has really cut back on production of anything lower margin for them (axis and Txi program?) 

Hopefully people here haven't already paid Tommy's for a boat pending delivery because I anticipate that the inventory is going to be tied up.

@LK_skier run it in ASA and model two channels in the part for metal pins to be inserted from the other end sized so you can thread stainless allthread into the holes don't bother trying to thread just warm the allthread with a heatgun in your drill chuck and run them in.  then you can cut those off flush with a zip disk and the plastic part is confined.  I don't have a connelly so I haven't tried building these but that's my technique for brackets in cars the threaded rod is a cheap fast way to internally pin the part right through potential weak points.  If there is a local olympic archery range another easy material to snag for this is their "bent" arrow shafts which are bent by a few thousandths over a length of ~28" model the hole for a very slight interference which just print a test block of holes around the size of the shaft then insert with a bit of epoxy and you have a part that is extremely resistant to warping.

4 minutes ago, kmenard said:

I wonder what the major sport equivalent of this would be... Probably not Brady to Tampa...but...

More like Derrick Rose going from Adidas to Nike.

Do you swim out and take the temps in the middle of the course after a few passes or right there by the dock?

@Mastercrafter something the syndicate team seemed to have done well this summer was support the European events, which of course was probably hard on the ranking of some of the people who didn't.

@Horton sans rival still exist?

@HortonThey are very nicely made as well as high end of finish as any of the other top skis.  I think the Mustang would sell well here too.

Mostly I was being a bit tongue and cheek about the HO april first but seriously that wouldn't be a bad ski for his kid.

On 4/1/2024 at 5:39 PM, UWSkier said:

Bronco

Not a bad pick overall.

37 minutes ago, mike_mapple said:

I have a custom reflex, I have a Wiley that has no front horse shoe that I really like, a 2013 HO Xmax 

they do the hovercraft in 65-67-69 (my sizing might be off) But even if you did a 65 almost anyone can ride it and its a fun ski to just mess around on as well. 

I mounted the 67 with some HO XL boots and my 11.5/12 foot is LOOSE in that boot.  I bought a 65 hovercraft and moved thebregular bindings to this.

This is the summer for 2 up pontoon hovercrafting.

On 3/26/2024 at 4:46 PM, GregHind said:

what is the difference between the omni and the carbon omni? Obviously weight but what about drag, fun etc?

I'd do the carbon omni not much more $ and won't be wondering. it also comes with an adjustable fin which the lower spec does not.

The HO XL freemax should do it.

When that CX was new they sold a CX and a wider TX, those two got blended together to form the Omni which was slightly wider than the CX and slightly narrower than the TX so she'll probably like it, the Omega max is on my wish list and I loved the Omni, the CX although I had a Co-efficient X which was the predecessor of the CX and I didn't like that much.

The older ones are some sort of cast aluminum.

On our old MC morse control I filed it flat and glued a flat scrap of hobby store brass to it.  then drilled it and counter sunk and peened a rivet to keep that from coming loose.  slightly beveled the edges flattened the rivet with the file and then cleaned up the pocket with a small dremel burr to square it up a bit.  I picked brass thinking it could be sacrificial but havent gone in to inspect for wear and that was many years ago.

Its a 3 legged stool. 

1: Make sure you have a good return spring and if the throttle lever pulls back towards neutral on its own add a throttle cable brake since most controls don't have a friction adjustment on most of the older boats "enough" return spring will tend to make the boat slow down on its own if you don't hold it.

2: Voltage to the head unit - particularly on the older boats that don't have their own "PP harness" but even on some that do you need to have good solid voltage to the unit because that servo motor is THIRSTY the power you tap into the PP doesn't just run a few small electronics in the gauge and master module but provides power to the servo, feel how hot that gets sometime it uses juice and if it doesn't have enough power it won't be responsive.

3: Software update, the early versions of stargazer sucked but you could still run them if you solved for the first two problems, I think a lot of the overrunning was simply the servo responding slowly and the throttle hanging up.

If it's behind the prop I wouldn't think so.

Almost seems like you should be forcing exhaust into the tube.

8 minutes ago, kmenard said:

@RAWSki I think the Tige SLM is a total sleeper boat!

I've looked at two in the last 5 years but they both had rotten stringers.  Unfortunately I feel like the people who bought then worked em hard and put them away wet.

Anyway to separately insurance the jump to mitigate the risk to the main policy?  Like a separate rider policy for the Jump ramp and the use by restricted parties?

Its such a crazy sport congrats to Jacinta on her career.

Any billionaires want to sponsor a Jacinta training center so she can run a physio/weight lifting/waterskiing training academy?