BraceMaker

10 hours ago, APB said:

Would this not have potential to vibrate/ move?? 

Still has a clamp feature from what I can see its basically a standard fin box with 3 clamp screws to secure the fin in place (red boxes).  But then the DFT set screw/grub screw has a turned down area that sits into a slot in a block (Green box) that slides inside the fin box that is threaded to support the rear most turn screw (green arrow).  The front one may also float, but it probably does this independently as you can see how the bulk of the clamp reduces after that screw.  I cannot tell if the it in the green box supports the bit by the green arrow.

However from what's pictured you'd still have to loosen the fin "conventionally"

@ColeGiacopuzzi 

Yes so bear with me.

You get a brand new ski, the chart says 29.5" to the heel of the front boot.  Draw a line across the ski at 29.5" from the tail.

Drop your boot on it with the heel at 29.5" and ski it and figure out where you like your boot.  Now take and mark the binding plate where it hits that line.Now you get another new ski and it says 29" on the chart so you draw a line at 29" and then put your boot on it so your marks on your binding plate.

If the factory recommended numbers are meaningful in any way shape or form what I just described should work for everyone.  If it works for no one then the factory numbers are meaningless and should just be ignored.

In downhill you'd have a ski with the true center marked and then the ski tech would measure forwards or backwards from the true center a small accurate distance they wouldn't bust out a tape measure and go from the boot back 30" across a fin block through maybe a rear boot that has to be removed to measure accurately.

Yup if radar says a ski gets 29.5" and puts a line there would anyone complain? I get that it's hard to put a top sheet graphic down accurately but just do it with a sharpie.

You can do it yourself make a line set your plate eyeball it ski till you are happy scribe your plate.

17 hours ago, jnan66 said:

When designing a new boot it would have been a nice thing to have a vertical surface built in on the back of the heel as a measuring point

Skip that when manufacturing skis they should mark the boot position on the ski.  Just a line across it at whatever position ankle bone or heel of boot.  Alpine and cross country skis have these marks.  

If they'd just include that mark you could run a microjust and reference boot moves to the line.  Then all binding plates could have a V notch or whatever to indicate the boot alignment.  Nine of this is hard.

@markn my take away is that if there are 7000 reports this year and only 38% resulted in administrative closures that's nearly 4500 cases on which they imposed a sanction 

Guess it depends what they seemed like, I've had carbon laminations where when they were removed from the mold there were dry fibers where the resin didn't fully saturate an area.  Those laminates are failed and need to be discarded.

But then again if you're working with carbon braids and cutting it with scissors around product those little whiskers tend to stick to things and move around so potentially someone was unrolling fabric and cutting it in the same place that they were assembling final skis and some of the fibers got transferred into the slot at assembly or were stuck to the fin and inserted through the ski?

Certainly there should be no fibers looking like that unsaturated and part of the ski.

@skialex not sure if you have something like this in europe but we have several companies like

https://sendcutsend.com/ that water jet and laser cut materials.

So you draw up what you need using a free software like onshape (note the drawing below was a ~10 second sketch where I didn't constrain or dimension anything if you were going to do this you would actually take measurements and lay out some construction lines with real measurements from your ski)

Then you export it from there to a cutting service....

You can have whatever shape you want with the holes you want (for the ski inserts, for the boot?) you can add countersinks to things like aluminum plate or just do it yourself.  And you can make those oblonged or slots.

Point being very easy to make yourself custom binding plates for ~30 bucks in about 1 beers worth of taking dimensions w/ a caliper.

Its also just an LED if all you want is to read the codes.

Easier to get back in place dry than wet in my experience and then you can take some nylon thread and do a little X pattern tack stitch in the corners that move.

It may flash off overtime

Take Luzz up.  You won't be dissapointed.

@swbca

Actually what you've done replicates where I got the idea originally my neighbor has a 4x4 with a keel roller bolted to it.  

Just one of these and he adjusted it up so it basically touches the keel and hits the skeg at the same time.

I would have stolen it but on my lift the front of the bunk isn't that close to my front skeg so I needed something that would need to come back over a foot to hit the front skeg before my prop hits.

14 minutes ago, jcamp said:

Shut down this thread, we have a winner: 

https://www.ski-it-again.com/php/skiitagain.php?endless=summer&topic=Search&category=Boat_Vintage&postid=68016

I think the idea is you buy it and he restores the boat for 10K?

Wade Cox calls non-matching gear cross dressing.

My front hardshell is a boot on another brand's release plate with another company's rear on a ski from another company using liners from a different brand all together my vest comes from a different brand and the gloves I use match my rear boot but not my ski or my vest.

Unless someone is paying you to use their stuff use what fits and feels good.

Correct but the PVC can bend pretty easily so its not a hard hit.

We don't power into it, but as you come onto the lift eventually you bump it and then crank up.  

Its a lot better to bump a fin than hit the prop into the lift.

Skip the laminated wood - we've always just done this with PVC pipe across the lift cradle using a U bolt.  ours is 3" has enough give that if you come in a smidge hot it isn't a hard stop. But is stiff enough to prevent too much forward motion.

Looking straight isn't really good enough very small run out issues will thrum badly.

It also sort of sucks because there isn't an easy way to mount a dial indicator (nothing magnetic under the boat) but if you have a decently sized C-Clamp you can clamp a dial indicator to the strut.  I usually pull the prop and measure behind the strut just in front of the prop, again in front of the strut and then a final time inside the boat boat where you can typically reach if you have a mag base stuck to the transmission.

Or if you have a set of rollers obviously taking the shaft out is best.

I bet your shaft has a bend in it and that bend is sometimes inside the boat.

Other I'd say is rear plate straight but heel free.

@buechsr yup its the double edged sword, getting to use the greens and the gates and having mini course is excellent because they can work on all those other moves and timing.

But you're locked into width.  There are other ways to learn the course by moving the boat, and having drills take one shadow 2 3 4 5 take 6 etc.

With out adding balls the technique is to drive down just outside of the boat guides, the skier goes around the turn ball and the opposite boat guide marker for a total course width of 12.65m or 6.325m 

I would say that it does feel quite narrow but it is convenient that it overlaps the 6.4m recommendation as you could just put in an official disability course dimension which is cool.

Double edged sword if you've skied around the mini course it doesn't have the dynamics quite but then if you're splitting the difference you get pretty close to just going for the whole course anyway.

It sort of looks like the fracture was during the front flip when his ski leaves the water for the second time.

I have a few from different brands they're all fine.

But after watching a Harry's Garage video (great if you're into classic cars and motorcycles) I've started using Ctek

Their vehicle side connectors : https://smartercharger.com/collections/accessories/products/ctek-comfort-connect-indicator-eyelet : have LED charge indicators.

I've started adding these to my stuff and there is nothing like walking past your lawn tractor and going hmm that needs a top up to keep your stuff working just last night I charged my motorcycle and I've been adding these to the batteries on everything I own.

I think you'll find that customs should be paid or rather is due.

Some companies play games like "used sporting equipment" but either they should have collected it and had you pay them or UPS is probably owed.

http://i-carve.com/snowboard_hard_and_soft_boots/mountain_slope_point_951_standard