Boat hoist

[Wayne]

So we talk a lot about skis, boats and what we do while skiing. I'm guessing even boats that rack up 500 hours a season still spend more hours parked by a dock than moving.

 

What are people parking their boats on if you have the privrilage of keeping a boat in the water? I've been doing some research, Shorestation, Floe and Hewitt seem to be "the big three" lifts in the area. I'm curious what the experience is with these and other brands (craft lander, lake shore, lake side also are available). Is a vertical lift ok or do I have to go cantilever? What do you like or dislike about a lift you have?

 

I'm definately going with a canopy but are there other desirable options or features?

[oldjeep]

My FIL has a cantilever lift. My only advice is to go up one weight class higher than what you think you need. His is very close to capacity which makes taking the boat up and down a pain.

 

The best feature I've seen for them is the one his buddy has on the lift for his mastercraft. It is a carpeted 2x8 mounted to the rack that runs the whole length of the lift next to the boat which makes it a lot easier to get in and out of the boat when it is on the lift.

[A_B]

I trailer mine, but, I ski on 2 other lakes a lot that have lifts. The hydraulic lift is really fast compared to the crank up cable spool with motor. Each guy has had some issues with both. The hydraulic had a leak and wasn't creating enough pressure and the cable has broke twice in 10 years or so while lifting the boat. It scares the stuff right out of you when it happens!

 

The side curtains that go up and down mechanically are pretty cool and good for keeping sun off the gel coat.

[Zman]

I really like my Craftlander lift. In fact, when I moved this past year, I bought my second Craftlander. It is a vertical lift, the 4500 lb capacity model, 120 inch width. I like this width because it allows me to include the carpeted boat guides, which work great as a step in and out of the boat, and for walking along the length of the boat when you wipe down the hull. You might also go with a 114 inch width, but you would have very little room between the hull and the boat guides. Plus, a wider lift means a wider canopy and a little more shade for the boat.

Be sure to get the extended legs so you can raise the deeper end enough to keep it near level. And, with Craftlander you also have to order the longer brackets (no up charge) for mounting the bunks so your fins will easily clear the rear cross beam.

A neighbor has a Lakeside lift, and it is very similar to mine, even has the same NuCraft gear box on it as ours. My only concern with the Lakeside is his cables have corroded to the point of breaking in less than 6 years. Seems odd for stainless steel cables in fresh water.

[Waternut]

I have a Hewitt hi-lift lift. If your water is fairly shallow, definitely get a cantilever or an overhead boathouse style lift. The person who bought the lift before I moved in bought a hi-lift for a max of 4 feet of water. If the water level goes down a little the cross bars hit bottom and my boat gets stuck on the lift. Meanwhile a cantilever will lower your boat into deeper water.

[6balls]

Smaller outfit, but I've got a porta-dock vertical lift and here's why; given their canopy set-up I am able to tuck my boat up under it so far that my windshield is about a half-inch from the canopy frame. About all you can see from shore is the bottom of my boat. Protected from elements and sun.

[skihard]

My boat hangs from hooks on the bow and aft. Simple hook up, lift, close boat house door and walk out! Everything is out of water when we get back and dry! Ready to go when we hit the switch to lower it and go!

[gator1]

@ob: Glad you like the lift. I sold my patent on the floating one to the guys at Sunstream.

[thager]

@OB I did the same thing as you with Tennis fence screening but zip tied a 3/4 inch pvc frame to the bottom. I then rigged some rope and pulleys to a single point. When I need access one pull on the rope lifts it up out of the way. I secure the rope to a cleat. Boat stays dry and out of sun. Frame keeps screening in place during inclement weather. Swallows stay away too! Mine is a Hewitt.

[Wayne]

Good feedback. The marina on my lake sells craftlander and knows the lake really well. This is probably a plus to getting that brand. I was concerned about lakeside quality since they are so small.

 

Hewitt has an awesome canopy, and for my case they have one that will accommodate a tower but it still lets you tuck the boat way up under it. Unfortunately this is also the most expensive route for both the lift and installation. Sounds like I'm down to two options , Hewitt or Craftlander.

 

I would love to do a boat house but I think the department of natural resources has to approve a permanent structure that is in or less than 5 feet away from the waterline. I had a 3rd idea of putting train tracks from the shore into the water with a train car built similar to my trailer. I've seen this done but no idea who built it since it was done a long time ago. I think I could do this with out too much hassle for permits. Anyone ever see this set up or know of who would do it in Michigan?

[GAJ0004]

I have a Shorestation vertical which is 28 years old. It is a pretty solid lift. It needed an overhaul about 7 years ago. We actually upgraded the weight capacity from 2600 lbs to 3500. It is a pretty reliable lift. The winch cable gets replaced every 5 years. Not easy to change cables when compared to a cantilever style lift, but I have done it enough times where it is easy now. We don't have a canopy on ours which makes it easy to take in and out. My brother bought a lift by Lakeside. They don't have dealers, they are factory direct. It is not much more than a year old, so far it is a pretty solid lift. May be a more affordable alternative to a lift bought from a dealer.

[GAJ0004]

Hewitt makes a good lift too. I have two of their roll-a-docks which have been excellent.

 

[Sethro]

@Wayne, there are many homemade rail systems on the river here in NW IL. When you price ready made systems, you will see it can be done for a fraction of the cost if you and a welding friend (if you aren't a welder) do it yourself. I still have some work to do on mine (mostly some grinding and painting) but this gives you an idea of what we do around here. Even easier if you shoreline is a gentle slope into the water.

 

 

[ntx]

@skihard I am not sure that I would let a boat hang by the lift rings for extended time. I have seen cases where the hull of the boat bowed due to the unsupported weight of the motor in the center of the boat. Best to have the bunks under the boat to help support the weight along the entire length of the bunks.

[MZito]

I have been using AirDOck for 9 yrs. its great easy in and out up and down. Ill post pics but I am not sure how to on this forum.

[skihard]

@ntx - states right in the owners manual to store boat that way. I know I wondered about it too but I am not the only SN owner at our site that stores my boat like this. I even questioned the other SN owner about this as I am new to the community and he said same thing.

[Waternut]

Yeah the Nautiques can hang by the lift rings no problem. Owner at our club has been doing it for many years and multiple boats. I wouldn't do it with too many other boats though. The only downside is; getting in the boat while it's hanging is a little squirrelly because it swings and tilts but we still do it. The plus side is, lift construction is simple and you never have to worry about being centered or far enough forward on the bunks.

[BRY]

I think the Basta www.bastaboatlifts.com are the best built. Basta also has the patent on this type of lift so Sunstream and all the others must pay him. Had a Basta and I currently have an RGC (a little cheaper), also a very good lift, but think the Basta is a bit better. Like this type as it reaches back to get the boat, doesn't seem to take any more water than a cradle, is very sturdy to walk around in the boat and no cables to wear, break, over-ride. They are easily adjustable for depth and easily moved. Picture with roof is RGC and without roof Basta.

[behindpropellers]

Lakeside actually doesn't make the lifts they sell. In fact I will never buy a lakeside product again after having to buy a replacement part.

[Zman]

@behindpropellers Do you think that NuCraft (Craftlander) makes the lifts for Lakeside? Sort of a cheaper version of a similar lift?

What was your issue getting parts? We just spoke with them about replacement cables for my neighbors lift and they seemed nice, but seemed like a small operation.

[Zman]

@Wayne Funny you mentioned that you like the Hewitt canopy. We do too, we like that the deep canopy has curved ends versus the flat gable ends like Craftlander has.

However, - beware if using one manufacturer's canopy and another's lift. When Craftlander calls a lift a "120" model, they are referring to the distance of 120 inches of width in between the support legs (inside edge to inside edge). When Hewitt calls a lift a "120" model, that is the distance to the outside of the support legs. So, the Hewitt lift is a full 6 inches narrower even though both manufacturers call them "120". For various reasons I think you get a lot more lift for comparable money with a Craftlander.

[Wayne]

@Zman I would use all the same company for everything. Hewitt canopy really draws me to that brand.

 

@Sethro that was what I was thinking. I have a shore line that would actually do better with that set up than a vertical or cantilever lift. I can weld and have a mig. Just need to find a place for parts. However my time is limited so having a drop in solution is favorable.

 

I talked to lakeside, I agree nice people but I was concerned about durability. I got the feeling they have an offshore supplier (China). They stated they were manufactured "out east".

 

Good stuff here, many manufactures I didn't find on line so thanks to all so far.

[MZito]

AirDock pics

[GAJ0004]

If I were buying a new lift today I would go with the Hewitt cantilever style. Good bunks, and it is easier to change cables if needed. Cantilever style does not put as much stress on the cables. It is easier to change the cable even if the lift is still in the water.

The best lift depends on where you are using though.

[Wayne]

@mzito I saw air doc and really like the idea. Can you lift all your running gear out of the water? I've heard you should have half the prop in the water so it stays stable. From my research their customer service is really good.

 

@GAJ0004 I may not have the depth for a cantilever. Looking at the spot I want to put my lift it's pretty shallow at the front. Looks like the current lift (with a pontoon boat on it) doesn't have any feet. They just set the lift frame on the sand.

 

Anyone ever use LSP? Looks like I made a mistake on the product line the local marina carries.

[boarditup]

The lift I have been most impressed with is the ones from Summit Marine in Michigan. Very sturdy, relatively light, good geometry so the hydraulics and pins don't take a beating. Modular, so they are easy to work on and getting parts through normal shipping is not a big deal.

[gator1]

@ob; WTH are you lifting? Two nautiques? "can" and "will" are two different things. Don't get to thinking I'm the French government just because I'm building you a gatormod.

[gator1]

Anybody out there wants to invest in 3500 lbs of flotation (ez dock, plastic barrels, whatever) and can weld, let me know. I've got the next patent on a floating lift designed in my little pea sized brain.

[xrated]

No Floes huh? I don't know how they work for tow boats but I know they make a good product...and they are local to the area I grew up so I always suggest their docks, lifts and trailers.

[MZito]

@Wayne I inflate the airlock a little higher that 1/2 prop. As far as the rest of the underwater gear, i would have to say the skegs are not sitting in water. As the lift blows up the water runs out. I have never had a problem pulling the pug and water coming up. The customer service is great, Ken Moody is the man behind AirDock call and ask for him he is a good guy.

 

I went with this set up due to my fluctuating water level and unstable bottom. AirDock can be used in any water condition with out any adjustments. I will try to find some more good pics and post them.

[Wayne]

@xrated floe is available in this area. The dealer that carries Floe is the one that recommended a Hewitt cantilever. My water level only fluctuates a couple inches over the season so I think for durability he went the Hewitt route. Hewitts seem to be overbuilt and about the only service they need is a cable every 10 years.

 

@gator1 I might be interested in building a prototype for myself but no mass production. How shallow do you think your idea will work?

[gator1]

Need about 14 inches under the fins up to the drivers seat

[Jordan]

@gator1...sent you a pm

[behindpropellers]

@zman

 

RGC makes the lifts that lakeside "manufactures". I was disappointed that Lakeside lead me to believe that they manufactured the lifts.

 

http://www.rgcproducts.com/

 

Bought a replacement part for a neighbors lift. Just about fell over when I got the invoice for a short piece of chain.

[Not_The_Pug]

Check out Summit Marine for a lift. I bought one in the spring and it is great. Reverse Rams so they don't sit open when the boat is lifted, so they last longer. Also the bunks are a plastic material, so they don't have to be replaced every so often and no scraching that I have seen. Very well built. Life time warrenty on welds and 10 years on parts. That is the best I found when researching all the lifts. Had never heard of them before Marcus Brown told me about them. Get a hold of Marcus if interested, he is a dealer.

[oldjeep]

Another cool type of lift is the center dump type. I wish I knew what the brand was, but my FIL has one under the shared Nautique that they have on his florida lake. Basically works like a belly dumper on a gravel truck.

[I5boi]

Here is what we are using (no tower on future boat).

[Wayne]

@I5boi what is your water depth? I'm in a spot where the front of the lift will be in 2.5 feet of water. I think a vertical lift is my only solution unless I have the lake bottom excavated which may not be an option.

[Not_The_Pug]

@Wayne, A vertical lift may not work at your depth in the front? You will need to look at how tall the bunks are on the lift. For shallow depths a cantilever lift works better.

[The_MS]

http://www.hewitt-roll-a-dock.com/lifts07/roll-a-rail.html

 

Buy a car port and place it on shore.

[I5boi]

@wayne it is usually 15' but can change +/- depending on the season. 2.5' is not enough. Some of the other suggestions would work better for your use.

[Wayne]

@MS that is exactly what I was looking for!

[The_MS]

@Wayne I had one for years and left it in year round here in Mn. Great for wipe downs, maintenance and keeping under the car port. Let me know if you need any info.

[The_MS]

This is after our car port was removed.

There is a guy up in Winnipeg that has the track going right into and above ground boat house. There are some nice pics over on Planet Nautique of his set up.

[PatM]

Summit Lifts. The best and I believe they invented the hydraulic lift. Also great service.

[Wayne]

@MS how long was the one you installed? It looks like the basic is 32 feet and then you can add sections to lengthen it. Kind of curious what length I'll need. I have a pontoon on a Shorestation in the spot I'm going to put this? There is about a 2 foot increase in depth from the front legs to the back legs of the Shorestation.

 

Does the winch attach to the trolley or the boat? If it attaches to the trolley, does the boat hook to the trolley in any way?

 

I'm going to contact a local dealer but if you don't mind sharing it, can you ballpark what you spent?

[The_MS]

@Wayne I think I had 4X16 foot sections. They have adjustable legs for the water end so you can keep the track on a level incline to the shore. I just used stacked bricks in a few places under the water. For length, It depends on how far your bunks need to roll out to get under water far enough for the boat to float off. The wench cable runs the length of the track and rotates around a pulley. There is a connection to the bunk cart from the front and back. The bunk cart just rotates forward or reverse to the water and the boat floats on/off just like any other lift. I was into the lift and car port for under $4500 but that was back in 05.

[balsamcutter]

I bought a port-0-dock lift cause that's what the marina on our lake sells. im sure some are better, but it works fine. My only comment is about canopies, I don't like them. Birds nest inside them, they block your view from shore, they add a lot of work to spring and fall- taller, heavier, and a canopy maintain.

 

 

[thager]

@balsamcutter Enclose your lift with two 50 x 6 ft tennis fence privacy screens. Bungy to frame as u shape from each end. I built a cheap 3/4 inch pvc tube frame same size as canopy frame then zip tied screen around it at bottom. On lake end I zip tied a pully system to raise and lower by hand. No birds and no need to cover boat. Air circulates but fence screen keeps sun off boat.

[Fine409]

@thager - have any pictures of your setup you could post? Nice idea!