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The new Flextail


bbruzzese
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It never ceases to amaze me the difficulty in reporting a simple dimension like length and why fin dimensions constantly get reported relative to a different measuring point or from a tool that is not correctly set to zero or used from a point not designed for the task. Of course we all are pretty proud of telling our score in feet off rather than the actual when using the worlds greatest unit system :smiley:
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@6balls That was relatively recent. Roughly a week ago he managed to convince nearly all of us that he had jumped on a Vapor and immediately run 3 @ -39. When he revealed that he hadn't skied on it at all, @Horton busted out three straight pandas.
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@mbabiash Are you looking for different numbers to try or experiment? I starting using a slot so I don't have tip numbers but I would search here for "slot to tip" posts. There has been discussion of that topic. (subtract 0.071 if using tips??)

I ran the gamut on settings for fin and bindings. I could ski ok on all of them but never settled on the best. The last ones were 6.920, 2.440, .745, 9deg, 29.75 That smoothed out the finish of the turns. Have you tried the flextabs yet? I think that's a must too as an adjustment option.

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@Booze

I've chased numbers all over the place.

It came with 6.835 tips 2.512 and .745.

I felt like that was way to deep so I shallowed it out to 2.500 but it just got worse. Rolled over way too far on edge.

 

I'm back at 2.512 and it feels ok but not great.

Maybe I should try the long shallow numbers that you tried last.

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So I just got my Flextail that I bought off a buddy and I have a few questions.

 

1. The quality - The ski seems to be on the low side of quality spectrum. I noticed around the top edges of the ski they used magic marker for the border where the graphic meets the black side edge. I also noticed some imperfections on the bottom of tip where some material didn't get filled in like dimples.

2. I also noticed the bottom of the ski is a matte finish that almost seems chalky, shows oil from my fingers? Has anyone else noticed these characteristics?

3. My buddy had dual lock on the ski and when I went to pull it off, it pulled the graphic off in a few places. Under the graphic was some white shiny stuff.

 

I am just a little worried that this ski will breakdown fast and that the quality is poor. I've never owned a GOODE so this just might be the way they are?

 

Thanks guys! To some of you this might sound ridiculous.

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I think the sheer demand for the skis in the middle of the year equated to a lesser priority of finish quality. (IOW, get them out the door)

The 'skin' of Goodes has varied from model to model. The early ones (9100) were painted. Later ones (9900's) had a harder shell-like finish top and bottom, kinda like a gelcoat. The N1 appeared to be a thin clearcoat over the actual carbon fiber (very cool). The XTs, I believe, were painted bottom and poly laminate layer on top...which is what the Flex appears to be.

Perhaps Dave will change/improve the finish as the flurry in demand settles.

This could spur a whole debate about how perfect a $2k ski should look. Some will say "if I paid $2k for a ski, it should be/look perfect". Some will say they don't really care how it looks as long as it SKIS perfect. I think the more serious and less anal skiers tend to lean towards the latter...but that's just my opinion.

ps, I sanded mine with soap and 1000 grit.

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@303skier Goodes are different from the way they are made through to the finish. Those that love their Goode skis do so because of the way they work and live with the cosmetic stuff. Your observations/experience sound typical. I tell people if it works better for you than anything else then ride it. Many say Goode has gotten increasingly behind their product over the recent years and will work with those that have problems.

 

I think ski companies and their products vary over performance, quality, service, etc. Gives us all a range of options to pick what combination works best for you.

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Would love to hear how to use the shims for the flextail. I am supposed to receive them this week. My onside turns too hard. I am planning on placing on at a time to help my onside calm down. Should I start toward front of toward the back in my placement of shims? Can you place just one or should you place one in all three slots?
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@JoeMac , you have the right idea. From what I have seen, start at the front and add to either side as you see fit. Also, bear in mind water is shot up through the slot, so keep them on the inside as much as possible and 'strapped' down with interloc or gorilla tape.

I'm sure you already knew, but note that the shims go on the side you're turning into because that's the side that is 'compressing'.

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Thanks @Booze and @bishop8950!

 

I just wanted to make sure that the ski I got was consistent with what others were seeing. Like I said this is my first GOODE so wasn't sure what to expect? I'm excited to ski it and hopefully it's performance makes me forget about the slight cosmetic imperfections.

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@303Skier a little off subject... I've seen the some of the same concerns you mention on several new skis from other manufacturers recently. What I consider blems - random pieces of stuff under the finish coat, odd colored spots, dimples in the base and sidewall (looks like it didn't come out of the mold cleanly), top and bottom edge not a clean and even line. For me any new blank high end ski that sells for 1,200 to 1,500 or more should be blem free. Not sure why this happens. Could have just been a coincidence.
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QC has never been a strong suit with Goode, sadly. Its the mian reason why I have not bought one, its a long way to Australia if something fails. Best part of a week each way.. Otherwise the flex tail appeals but I feel like I would need a backup ski.
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Skied my Flextail for the first time Yesterday and I was very impressed!

 

First several passes I instantly noticed 3 things...One, the speed. The ski is very fast and efficient from ball to ball. Even when I messed up and hitched a turn I was still able to get over to the next ball in time to make a solid turn (This is what I was most impressed with!)...Two, the stability of the ski. I instantly felt stable and centered on the ski. Even with all the speed it produces, the edge change and turns feel controlled and smooth...Three the turning characteristics of the ski. I'm more of a "let the ski do it's thing" and this ski definitely likes to do it's own thing without a lot of skier input. On-side turns are smooth sharp and quick and I noticed I could get away with a lot more angle and ride out of it. Off-side turns are not as sharp and quick compared to on-side but if you're centered and ready to turn, be ready because this ski turns hard!

 

Pros:

Speed from ball to ball

Stability

less skier input

forgiving

 

Cons:

Off-side turns a little slow (Could be me and bad position)

Quality

Cosmetics

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Last week after running my second ever 38 tournament on this ski this year........ I CHANGED EVERYTHING UP!

 

I was running long and shallow fin. CHANGED to Short and Deep. Moved bindings way back. Had 3 great rounds at Ski Park. I had never skied past 2 ball at 38 on that lake. I ran 4@38 two of the three rounds and 3.5@38 the other.

 

My point is, there are many settings that work well with this ski. I would suggest anyone skiing the flextail to try several different settings........ If you are more interested in what numbers I was running, PM me.

 

Ski View conditions this Saturday didn't give me a chance to feel the new settings out. Since my son BEAT me by running 2@21 MPH.......... LONG LINE! He slayed the wind, waves, and rain!

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@Rz - ah, I'm waiting on the new one. Looking forward to it.

 

On another note, I got a set on a 67 GT this weekend. Very impressed. Toesides were automatic and sweet. Fast from side to side. Heelside turns can't say for sure because my toeplate moved mid-set and was hanging over the edge of ski by 1/4". (Connelly pattern must be unique?)

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@OB1 - So how's your initial impressions/comparisons? I got 6 passes on the 66.75 N1FT yesterday (with bad glare one way) and went up through a couple 35's, so that's a really good sign.

For me:

-appears to ride deeper, so more drag but stickey and safer at the bouy (hope that makes sense)

-toeside carve is awesome...apply a little tip pressure and it WANTS to turn and finish quick at the bouy, but with not too much angle. very managable. and the times I got over the front too much, it kept moving and never bit.

-Heelside is interesting or odd. If I pushed or rushed it, it wouldn't come around like I would expect. A big slow turn would result, with tip rise. But there were a handful of turns were I didn't get in deep and stayed over the ski (like I should), and BAM, it snapped around so quick I wasn't ready for it....but it did keep moving.

 

I havent checked the fin yet, so I'm curious to see how it came from the factory. The last new one I got it was way off from published numbers...and yes, I have a 2nd gen slot.

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been riding the Fish Tail for a some weeks now and generally like it. Typical set for me starts at 22, 28x2, 32 and hopefully somewhere at 35 on a good day. My issue is that the ski does not seem to like the longer line lengths. Often my 22 is the worst pass of the set, hunting at the gate, overturning both sides, tip rise you name it. Things get better as the line gets shorter but I'd love to find a setting that would give me a little more stability at my opening passes without giving up too much a the other end...Currently at stock length and DFT but deeper at 2.479. hoping one of the shorter, deeper setting above might help...thoughts?
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i have seen absolutely no tip rise on this ski, and I have on almost every other ski I've been on. However, I start at 28 off. It is possible that the design of the ski is best suited to shorter lines.

 

That said, I would try to make sure you stay connected to the handle (close to the hips) longer at your longer lines. In addition, make sure the handle stays low and connected and that you have a slight outside edge in the water at your gate at the longer lines. This will likely solve both the hunting problem and the tip rise problem.

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