Ski Nautique TSC 1 Set Up

[Teddy]

Many people consider the TSC hulls as some of the best in the industry. There remains a loyal following for theses boats. What have people done to the bubble back boats for the ultimate slalom pull. Things like what prop to use, weighting of nose any tricks of the trade to make the driving or skiing experience better?

[Wish]

If you have a good working one... None needed. :D

[keithh2oskier]

Keep fuel in it and ski!

[Onside135]

Consider putting weight in the nose (30lbs or so), and running with no more than half a tank of gas. I would generally try and have a 1/4 tank.

[6balls]

Tune-able rudder, a good steering cable and rudder grease packing. Other than that when I bought it used we do nothing.

 

It skis no different with just a driver, a driver and an observer, 1/2 tank or running on fumes. It has a great wake with a driver, 2 observers and ski gear for all 3 in it.

 

I had no idea how good these were til I bought one. Very pleased.

[Bruce_Butterfield]

Grind the rudder a little for steering pressure. Keep the rudder cable fresh and just enough weight to keep the boat balanced. Nothing else needed.

[Orlando76]

45lb weight in nose, Acme 422 prop for average elevation, slight rudder pressure, full tank of gas isn't typically necessary, remove as much of the back seat as possible, and not mentioned but critical.... Perfect Pass.

[slow]

Im going on my 3rd steering cable with 750 hrs on a 1999 boat. Is that normal?

[Orlando76]

@slow very abnormal. Should be on your 4th cable at least. In a slalom tug for the sake of comfort alone I would replace a cable every 3-5 years tops. Any other boat the norm would be ~10 years.

[BrennanKMN]

Rudder load and speed control are really the only absolute must haves. Everything else just makes a great wake even better.

I run between 3/4 and nothing in the gas tank and have yet to really complain about it. If you live on a lake it is much easier to maintain less gas. I trailer (sometimes 5 times a week) so it gets to be a pain. So I just put in 20 gallons when we get real low. I generally check by looking at the tank when we get close. My gauge is widely inaccurate.

 

Just last night I had a guy ski with me that has a 200. He told me the only thing his boat has over mine is ZeroOff.

[swc5150]

@slow

The new Xtreme cable is supposed to hold up better. Are you getting any excess water in your bilge? That will prematurely take out a cable. Also you can turn your steering wheel all the way right when not use, which sucks the exposed metal of the cable back into the sheath, limiting exposure to water/moisture.

 

[Wish]

@swc5150 turning the wheel to the right when not in use...why is this not in bold print in the users manual? If it helps...brilliant. Will be doing that from now on.

[swc5150]

@Wish

I got the idea from another baller here. I think Jody mentioned it once too, but I could be wrong? I started doing with the new cable I just put in.

[Teddy]

Is the cable problem a problem of the cable getting difficult to turn or too much play in the steering?

 

[slow]

Mine gets difficult to turn

[Drago]

I drop my rudder, clean and re-grease once a year

[Skoot1123]

The SN 196 (MY 2001) has been the best purchase outside of the lake/house we live on to date! Love that boat!

[Teddy]

Drago, what's involved in dropping the rudder? Is there a "how to" somewhere you are aware of?

 

[cragginshred]

I have a 98 SN and it rocks! 265 hours going on 2nd steering cable. Low hours due to only used as back up to club boat.

[swc5150]

@Teddy

There's a good write up on correctcraftfan.com (I'm not sure how to post links here). It's really easy. Took me about 15 min do drop, grease and repack mine last month. Basically remove a nut, bolt and safety wire and the rudder drops right out. Put a floor jack under your rudder though, so it doesn't fall to the ground. It also helps if you load your boat with the stern hanging past the prop guard, if you want to completely remove the rudder. I greased my rudder shaft while it was out, as well as added all the grease I could through the zerk port. I used Mobil 1 synthetic grease FWIW. My steering is so smooth and easy now that I had to add additional rudder torque to put some pressure on the wheel. My boat's an '06 196 btw.

[Fehlindra]

every moving part in the steering from wheel to rudder gonna wear out and cos play in the steering use shim to tighten things up first make sure there is no play at all wheel to wire, if you have an old cable wire exchange it to the new one recommended the stronger one. after that grab an buddy to help you examine all links between cable and rudder that can cos play while you turn the steerings wheel

[DW]

Original 22 year old cable on boat w/ 1000 hours. Turn wheel to keep tiller end of cable not exposed (different way for different boats so tiller towards cable), lube cable with ATF occasionally (helps loosen a starting to tighten cable) and keep water out of bilge. Still feels great, the key is to keep moisture away from cable internals.

[Teddy]

Our boat does have perfect pass star gazer with Z box. We frequently end up skiing without an observer so we weight the passenger side with a couple of Straighline water filled bricks which weigh about 80# each. We lay them beside the the engine compartment and passenger seat.

 

My only complaint is we have about three inches of helm rotation before engagement. I have ordered a steering cable and rudder packing and will see if that tightens things up.

 

Thanks for the comments on things others have done.

[Teddy]

Onside135 and Orlando you both suggested weighting the nose of the Ski Nautique. What have you used for weight? Where in the nose have you put the weight and how have you kept it from moving around?

[Teddy]

 

I had the steering cable and rudder packing changed and got my boat back today. Unlike most of you my cable wasn't stiff but had about three inches of play in it. Making the changes has made the boat feel much more connected. In addition to changing the cable I changed out the original OJ Legend and installed the Acme 422. I've not skied behind it and I'm going to have to recalibrate my Perfect Pass but I am impressed with the prop. It seems to have a stronger hole shot ( using my seat of the pants accelerometer) and it appears to have dropped about 200 rpm to maintain the same speed.

 

 

[rockdog]

You won't disappointed with the 422.

[CBR51]

I have a 422 and a 668. I am at sea level so GT-40 has lots of power. I find the 668 a bit better. Wakes seem to be a tad softer. I also run with back seat out and usually try and keep no more than a 1/4 tank of gas. I see Paul @ FM has a pretty cool project going on with his TSC-1 . He moved the gas tank up front. I wonder how much difference that made?

[Drago]

There is no need to hack up one of the best boats ever made. The wake is better than a 200's wake.

[AkBob]

I have a 2001 ski Nautique. I havethe helm and cable and it's still a bit stiff on steering. I have to almost pull the gas tank to access the nut on top of rudder shaft. That is a pain... Is there an easier answer that I'm missing??

[ozski]

@JoelHowley runs a decent amount of weight in the nose of his 196 so i assume there is some logic to it.

[Orlando76]

@Teddy I'm not too certain how much weight we use but it's about 18x18x1" steel plate with a handle welded on it, coated in bed liner. One is placed all the way up in the nose on the floor and sometimes one on passenger side up against gunnel and base of passenger seat, but only if we are short a spotter. If I had to guess I'd say they weigh about 65lbs. I'm sure a 45lb barbel painted in bed liner will show an improvement too.

[sunperch]

We repowered to have ZO, at the same time we added a grease zerk for the rudder and yoke and moved the gas line filter for easy access. Nothing else is needed for a great slalom ride!

[LeonL]

It really shouldn't need nose weight. That's usually done to aid tracking and I don't think it needs that. You could try it, easy in and back out. A 75 lb weight on the pass side if no observer, is needed though.

[Orlando76]

Nobody ever said the TSC needs anything. These are just minor suggestions to make an excellent boat a superior boat.

[Teddy]

I had to recalibrate the baselines on my PerfectPass. We dropped about 200 rpm across the board. I'm pleased with the change to the Acme 422.

[The_MS]

Not sure why you would add weight to the 196 nose. They added weight to the nose of 196s at the big Dawg Champs in 08 and it pissed off lots of skiers. Ankle breaking wakes at 28 and 32 are the result. If all is good with the boat, there is no need to add any weight to the nose.

[CBR51]

I would think you would want as much weight out. Except for balancing the boat without a spotter

[Orlando76]

Funny thing is that's a trick I learned from a guy who skied Big Dawgs in '08. Guess he wasn't the one breaking ankles. Just my $.02, keep the damn weight out I don't give a flip.

[The_MS]

If you cant drive a 196 without adding weight to the nose, stay out of the seat.

[harddock]

1998 1100 hours. Changed original cable @ 1050hrs. Kept on a lift. Full back seat. Even weight (3 people) up front nets an even wake.

[LeonL]

Hey @Orlando76 I don't get that anyone is attacking you personally. Your Last two posts you're seeming to be awfully defensive. I'm sure nobody is doubting that you find nose weight preferable, just not their preference. Please don't take offense at those opinions.

[ozski]

Assuming decent weight distribution would a slightly heavier boat hold speed better once underway?

[6balls]

I would say all good input here...but that this is a hull that requires very little optimization and less than the current cadre of tourney-approved rides.

 

I run this hull almost every time I ski...a '97 and a '00. We have light gas to 1/2 tank, driver only at times but two, 200 lb observers at times. We have a tool box, some extra buoys, a spare rope, and a set of jumper cables under the hood (not to mention a pile of zip strips and a spare impeller in the glove box).

 

If we have 2 observers plus driver it means 3 skis and gear are behind the driver's seat.

 

Seriously; the skiers we have vary from an opener at 22 (34 mph) and maybe a shot at 35 to openers at 28 and complete 38's at 34 mph to 35's at 36 mph into 38. Great wakes, no spray, tracks great, and the only difference I see is the hole shot if the boat is loaded as I like it more brisk than most.

 

I don't care how much gas we have or how many skiers are in the boat other than how it effects our boat times so we adjust PP accordingly.

 

As a bargain boat if you don't need ZO and want fantastic wakes...TSC1 is the bomb. I'd buy it, drive it and ski it. The adjustments I'd make are a current steering cable, recent rudder packing. Love the tune-able rudder.

 

If you need ZO, would go TSC3 196 with ZO circa 2008...unless you want to spend a lot more.

[Teddy]

Great comments. We've got 400# in driver and crew and put 35# in the nose. The only thing I noticed with the weighted nose is one had to be more careful in not diving the nose through a wave. I didn't notice it being easier to drive (as others have pointed out it tracks well already) and I didn't notice a softer or harder wake. I'm a 15 off opener with an occasional 28 off pass.

[thager]

If I do not have a observer I counter weight with 70# under the front seat and a little towards the nose. Helps balance the driver weight and definitely tracks better than unweighted without an observer.

[Wish]

It always amazes me the difference between an observer in drive quality and without. Everything seems better with an observer...like they designed that way...haha..

[CBR51]

I find the best way to balance my boat is to have my 75 lb Yellow Lab as Observer