Trailer woes

[SDNAH2OSKIER]

After spending a lot of money last year on rehabbing a twelve-year-old trailer, we continue to have problems. We put all new running gear spindles brake rotors pads and tires and our first outing of the year the brake actuator fails. I can't remember how many times I recall saying to the two mechanics who worked on it "make sure you check everything" I want this trailer to run like new. I found the actuator Assembly online for $205 period looks like it is plug-and-play can anyone comment? I have lost faith in the two mechanics I have been using.

[JAG]

Tie Down actuators are pretty simple to swap out. You'll have to bleed the system. If I remember correctly, I use a large flat handle screwdriver (2002 Eagle trailer) to actuate the piston and have my buddy at each wheel, opening and closing the bleed nipple.

[gregy]

I changed the actuator assembly out on my last year. Its was really easy. I went back with Dot 5 silicon brake fluid because it will not absorb water like the Dot 3. I looked on line and there was a lot of debate on using dot 5. Its been over a year now.

[Jmoski]

If you have disk brakes you need an actuator with a reverse solenoid installed to stop the brakes from locking up when u put your tow vehicle in reverse.

[oldjeep]

Tie down parts are junk Imo. Best bet would be to get a UFP actuator. For bleeding skip the screwdriver and invest in a motive pressure bleeder. Swap is simple, if you have a swing tongue then replace the flex line too.

[SDNAH2OSKIER]

Cool, I am on it. I have vac set up to bleed brakes, @oldjeep the part is in fact a UFP actuator, I don't recall the part number but it was specific to a disc brake set up. I will call and make sure I am getting the right one. I thought brake fluid was generally backwards compatible, at least I thought you could use 5 when system required 4.

 

UFP A-60 Hydraulic Brake Actuator (7500lb. 2" Ball). 2 axle disc brakes.

[gregy]

Mine was UFP. My boat was a 99 and the new assembly fit right in and has some improvements that make it easier to latch. There is a hole so under the actuator to stick a screw driver and pump the master cylinder. Made it really easy to bleed.

 

 

[Kdinger838]

I'd convert to electric brakes or delete completely depending on your tow rig. The hydraulics just always fail eventually

[oldjeep]

My .02 on the dot 5 , it can absorb air and if you don't flush out your system really well it reacts badly with the standard stuff (3,4,5.1). Be aware that the common Dot 5.1 is not silicone, it is in the dot 3/4 family. If it were me id stick with the normal stuff.

[shyskier]

Dot 3 & 4 are the same type fluid, dot 4 has a higher boiling point.

[JAG]

@gregy

 

Remember that DOT3, 4 is not compatible with DOT5. They would be compatible with DOT 5.1 as DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 are glycol based. (DOT5 is silicone based)

You're taking a chance with DOT 5 because residual fluid could still be in there and can cause havoc later down the road. Maybe you meant to say DOT5.1, which would work AND has a higher boiling point.

[SDNAH2OSKIER]

Kdinger838 we committed to "making it right" and willing to work and spend money to keep it operating properly. Its just odd to have had one "bad" mechanic and one we thought was good, who corrected "some" of the issues the first guy missed or created but probably didn't even check or maybe just glanced at the fluid level. The trailer is newer to us, (part of the problem) so last year was really the first year we went through it after a bad tire and bad bearing the first two times it was used. We were under the impression it was in better condition, but once we realized where we were, we decided to get ahead of it so annoyed that we are spending time and money again, we wanted to ski again Friday and not looking good as of today. We can tow it with my Ram and or a BMW X5, but we go down long grades, much prefer a brake equipped trailer even with the 1/2 ton.

[eleeski]

@SDNAH2OSKIER Salt water is incredibly hard on your trailer. Problems crop up very quickly even with properly installed new parts. Especially brakes. While I would not blame the mechanics, doing your own trailer maintenance is very helpful. You will learn the value of slobbering anti seize on everything. Even new parts. Like the disc pucks (not the pads!). And the arms of the actuators. And very carefully on the threads of the brake lines. Actually between the line and the nut is most critical for anti seize - just don't get any inside the line. A professional mechanic has to leave things looking clean, you don't. That excess grease and anti seize is your friend.

 

Keep spare parts in your tool box so you can fix whatever goes wrong with resources on hand. And anti seize.

 

Spend more time repairing than washing - no matter how well you wash you will have to repair. And your boat is likely to outlast your trailer.

 

If you are trailering to fresh water then nevermind my messy advice.

 

Eric

[gregy]

@rpg No I used Dot 5 silicon fluid. I flushed out the system best I could. I've been using it for over 20 years in my off-road vehicles and it cured all my sticky caliper problems I was having. It doesn't strip paint like the other do also. The Dot 3 absorbs water while the Silicon based fluid repels water and acts as a lubricant.

[Kdinger838]

@SDNAH2OSKIER I understand that completely as I'm a service manager. I dislike the hydraulic brakes on trailers due to the jerkiness of the tounge(much like a pintle hitch) and always having to tape a bolt in them to back them up with the tractor. The electric brakes are adjustable and as long as your vehicle has a brake controller are a far superior option. As far as my comment on deleting them completely I wouldn't recommend that unless you're in a big pinch,

Short hauls with at least a 2500 hopefully with an exhaust brake. Just my .02 good luck!

[oldjeep]

As far as taping anything to back up. Most modern trailers have backup solenoids that lock out the brakes. If not then there are either magnetic lockout keys or the lockout twist cap that fits on the ufp actuators. I keep a lookout twist cap on mine so that I can lock out the brakes for the extended empty trailer pulls on vacation.

 

Love electric brakes on my car trailers, suck on boat trailers since you have to use drums which rust out a lot quicker than discs on boat trailers.

[Kdinger838]

@oldjeep this is with a tractor so you can't use the plug in to lock them out, I was referring to taping the lock out key because it only stays in when you're applying pressure as soon as you pull ahead to readjust angle it falls out. Most "old" boat trailers were drum and would rust out after about 10-15 years . Not saying everyone would rather have electric brakes but I do

[oldjeep]

@Kdinger838 if you get one of these then you can skip the tape, they are a magnetic key

 

 

Or if you have a standard UFP actuator you can replace your plastic MC dust cover with this - which is what I use for extended brake lockout - I have a solenoid for backing up but it is handy to completely lock out the brakes when trailering empty

http://imageserv11.team-logic.com/store-logic/products/159/4/8/5/9/4/34359-w_1.jpg

 

[Kdinger838]

@oldjeep was unaware of that, learn something new everyday

[BrennanKMN]

I am low tech. I have a snapper pin I use on the coupler latch when towing. When I want to backup at the ramp with the lights out or with the tractor I just put that into the lockout hole on my coupler.