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If you could design a new boat, what are the most important things?


DynaSkiPete
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Remember my interest is outboard powered boats. I'm curious how boat owners rank the importance of features and what really matters. With Mercury's new light weight V-6 Four Strokes having Smart Tow which is similar to "Perfect Pass" (I'm told) let's assume it works and not dwell on this area. Dyna-Ski is building a 20' Open Bow boat with a new 200 HP Mercury's V-6 Four Stroke motor for a customer so hopefully I'll get seat of the pants experience with it. It would be nice if respondents listed the most important ones first. Thanks!
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Honestly -

#1 Engine parts readily available, cheap and engine/drivetrain easy to work on by owner

#2 Lots of usable seating

#3 Good sized swim platform

 

Yes, 2 out of 3 eliminate an outboard from consideration

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As someone who has spent a lot of time in outboards (admittedly not in recent years) and inboards, the outboard-packaged throttle/control units were always sooo inferior to the morse throttles. I know that way, way back you could put a morse throttle on an outboard rig; don't know if anything has changed.

 

As per @oldjeep's comment about swim platforms, I see your 20' open bow has a large sunpad over the storage trunk. I wonder if seadek would be a worthy option there for a waterskier's rig? I need somewhere comfortable/functional to put my ski on.

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Wake

Convenience of dealer/certified mechanic

Tracking

 

If I buy a boat, it is first a foremost a ski boat, it needs to be able to give me a tournament pull or I'm not interested. That means the wakes and the tracking need to be something I can work with. Not saying current model but within the last decade.

 

I'm not a mechanic so having the dealer/mechanic in a convenient location so I'm not off the water for weeks at the time is of significant value.

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Wake

Tracking

Consistent speed control

 

I know you said assume smart tow works- but it’s so important to me I couldn’t leave it off this list. If it holds speed like Zbox or StarGazer it’s not even worth skiing behind to me

 

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Short of a rule allowing the boat to zig zag around the buoys and all you have to do is stand behind it, I think that may be a pipe dream @mwetskier ;)

 

A good driver and some coaching will get you those 2 rope lengths a lot faster than a new boat will

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I'm going to assume the top of everyone's list is safety, reliability and quality/build. That aside, I think a lot of it depends on what the buyers primary use is going to be and whether or not they have water front property or trailer it every use. My 2 cents...

 

Average "waterski" family who lives on the water:

1. interior/exterior functionality (seat layout, platform, helm)

2. wake (combo, slalom, kneeboard, trick, beginner wakeboard, tube :s )

3. speed control (something that keeps you close, but not worried about world records)

 

Average "waterski" family who doesn't live on the water and trailers their boat:

1. storage

2. interior/exterior functionality (seat layout, platform, helm)

3. bimini (sun management)

 

 

I'm just guessing people buying an outboard boat are not slalom course buoy chasers, 5,000+ point trickers, surfers, or extreme wakeboarders.

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@DynaSkiPete is asking the right questions. Maybe something AWSA approved will come out of it!

 

As one who only uses my boats on tournament lakes and in tournament simulations, my views are probably not those of a mass market.

 

A good wake is #1 for me. But as a tricker, my good wake preference is skewed as well. I need a steep sharp wake without froth. Big is helpful - especially if it's controllable (big for flips smaller for my level of toes). It must have a smooth table. I'm a little prejudiced from the outboards I've skied behind as the wakes have been very bubbly and hard to work. I'm sure that is a characteristic that can be designed around. Note that wakeboarding is pretty popular and they like similar wakes.

 

I slalom as well so the tiny soft wake is also desirable. Again, back to the controllable wake. Spray, rooster tails and holes in the wake are part of a good slalom wake. And it has to be friendly to the developing skiers.

 

Speeds have to be perfect. ZO or an equivalent (I'm not sure PP is there yet) is critical. The immediate custom response makes a ride feel good.

 

Handling is important too. Comfortable quick spins to get back to a skier really matter (as a tricker, dead idle turns ruin a run - especially if the water is chilly).

 

Control of the startup is relevant. I pull lots of beginners and old guys. Start needs vary a lot and it needs to be easy to adjust.

 

Tracking is overrated. But necessary to sell boats now. My old American Skier requires skill to keep centered but it is capable of a dead center slalom pass. A boat on rails is nice but a sluggish boat that diverges is the worst. It is a difficult balance that will take some engineering.

 

A swim step is critical.

 

I enjoy my tower. Some of my guests demand it. Don't let it interfere with the slalom or jump rope.

 

A good tournament boat needs enough power for top jumpers. They require a lot! it does matter.

 

These are a lot of requirements that the big expensive tournament boats have refined. Of course there is opportunity because the boats are big and expensive - certainly not on the list of desirable traits.

 

Good luck and I hope we get an opportunity to enjoy your boats.

 

Eric

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Only one requirement. Must provide a pull that is very similar to what I will receive in tournaments.

 

Most serious high-end skiers find that PerfectPass is not a sufficient replacement for ZO. All current certified tournament ZO boats comply with a policy that their pulls are as similar as possible.

 

(A lot of skiers prefer PP but since that's not what we get in tournaments it's not acceptable training option)

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Interesting comments. Thanks. Modern outboards don't require any service for 300 hours. Way quieter than any inboards and more fuel efficient too. The electronic shift and throttle are superior to any cabled throttle. A 250 or 300 hp outboard has awesome speed holding. Outboard boats have more space than inboards for similar sized boats. Slalom course skiers will always have to have the boats used in the tournaments as it is how the manufacturers sell new boats. I think the big three and the others are doing a good job for a shrinking market. The wake of an outboard can match an inboard with more weight in the boat you also get better straight line tracking. Bubbles are largely a function of the prop. Many people don't want to buy a vehicle to tow their boat so an outboard is way easier to trailer with the minivan or small SUV.

 

Keep the suggestions coming.

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I hate to say it... But... Outboard is a flat out disqualifier for me. I came from Jet boats and liked the lack of a prop... Now with direct drive... Well... At least the prop is under the boat... Outboard? Nope. I also don't like the way they pull on deep water starts.

 

Otherwise, it is about balance... Fun to drive, more fun to ski behind, ample room for skis people and beverages

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Driver controls - throttle has been mentioned but to compete with the steering feel on an inboard I think hydraulic steering will be mandatory.

 

Swim platform - a full width platform is possible on an outboard, there have been pictures on this site.

 

Freeboard - I would like a boat that is deeper than the older outboard barefoot boats.

 

Seating - I don’t need an open bow, but I would follow the mastercraft model and have a hard shell cover if the boat is designed as an open bow. However seating configuration and tow point placement should not interfere, I think this is completely possible on an outboard and not compromise tracking. Also a tower as the single tow point isn’t a great way around this.

 

Weight sensitivity - Either build in a driver counter balance tank or try to minimize left/right weight balance on the wake or do both.

 

Power - 200HP isn’t enough. 250HP minimum, 300 would be better but get the hull rated to handle 325HP.

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The answers you get will be completely dependent on user. First, the target buyer needs to be defined. If you are looking to design a boat for a tournament skier then the outboard alone may be a sticking point since it's more practical to train behind what is provided at tournaments. That leaves a few types of buyers that I can think of (I'm sure there are more that I'm not thinking of):

 

-The casual buoy chaser who wants an outboard for ease of manuverability and/or use where shallow depths are common. I'm guessing this person wants flat wakes that can be adjusted for other water sports (taking wakeboarders out) with the trim. Decent tracking with easily controled throttle and smooth stearing are also likely up there. Also, somewhere to put on the ski that doesn't scratch things up or put you right next to a prop (my brother-in-law got 4 stitches from taging a stationary prop with his toe) I think this would be a small subset of the skiing community though.

 

-The family skier who wants more room and something that can also be used for general water activities, like maybe fishing for a couple hours. This person will want a wake and tracking that let them go through a course but don't need the best to get that next shortest line length or one more buoy. The configurable wake is probably even more important for when kids decide to try wakeboarding or take friends out. Room is important, again for family and friends. The place to put on a ski or wakeboard is again a desire.

 

For either, things like freeboard, build quality, and driver interface are likely on the list. Including an open bow is necessary too. I could be totally off base on all of these, it's been known to happen to me on BOS.

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oal1asblt3we.jpg

This is a great outboard ski boat. They pulled all 3 events at Moomba about 20 years ago. I also saw something that Gekko was working on acoupl years ago, a GTR OB. And there are pic's on this forum of OB boats made in Australia with full width platforms. I would love to try out a 17.6 DynaSki w/ 150 hp, center pylon, tracking fins and extra sized platforms, or integrated/molded-in decks like the Gekko and Flighty.

 

 

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I would not sell an outboard without hydraulic steering unless it has a 75 or 90 on a 17.6. People that live on horsepower limited lakes love our 17.6 Open Bow. It is a real ski boat!

 

Some outboards come with power hydraulic steering as standard equipment. Dyna-Ski Boats have hydraulic steering almost always. See above.

 

A Dyna-Ski 20' Open Bow with a single 250 hp outboard will weigh in around 2500 lbs. wet.

 

The Dyna-Ski 20' closed bow model can be had with three 350 hp outboard motors.

 

5pxtioqv8zor.jpg

 

I don't know that you'd like the wake shape at slalom speeds. The triples are heavy in the transom area and often weighted in the bow a lot. A single slalom skier will not slow down a triple or pull it in a slalom course. A twin might be a better boat for the slalom course. Never tried a 20' Closed Bow multiple motored boat in a slalom course. Might be interesting. My area lacks slalom courses and skiers obviously. We have been approached about building a 20' Open Bow with twin motors. Never had one ordered yet.

 

Crosby and 18' Hydrodyne twin motored boats were used for many years at AWSA tournament events. Hydrodyne had AWSA approved 20' Outboards back in the 1980's and even a 17.6 or two as I recall.

 

There is one show ski team driver that does 8 people around the boat with a Dyna-Ski 20' triple so they do handle well. Pulling up only one skier with a triple or even a twin is a bit of a challenge with so much power.

 

A new water ready triple or twin will be less money than many new top of the line inboards.

 

Dyna-Ski holds many multiple skier towing Guinness World records.

 

Making a bigger ski platform on an outboard can be done. We have boarding platforms. Never had a customer seriously ask for one. I'll have to look for some pictures I have somewhere for examples.

 

Keep the info coming.

 

 

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If I could design a boat here is what I'd want:

1. 19-21 feet

2. Inboard engine that is easy to get parts/service

3. Wake and tracking

4. ZeroOff

5. Easy access to the platform - no trunks or things to climb on/over

6. Closed bow

7. No screens, cameras and over the top electronics

8. Teak platform

9. Non wrap around windshield - I want to reach the water from the drivers seat easily

 

Yes, my list is rather nitpicky, but if I am designing it I am going to build exactly what I want. :D

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@BrennanKMN - similar to you, I think the pinnacle of slalom boats is a bit of a hybrid between the size/interior of the current generation of boats. Blended with the general helm and controls of a more classic boat. Current speed control is a must wakes and tracking are just what the sport demands so obviously those. But to me the rest of the boat should be water proof, sun proof, damage proof for thousands of hours of skiing use.

 

Textured gel coat floor with snap in carpet, vinyl seat cushions that are snapped onto bases and modular/orderable - Hey can i get a new seat base color 003 - sure that will be 150 and arrive friday.

 

No rear trunk or vinyl to step over in back, liked the 196 style seat with two corner jump seats and a center step.

 

Would like someone to design the passenger seat base such that skis slid up under it with out having to flip up the seat or base - just a hole that goes up under the front into shade with maybe a padded foam roller and a spot for the fin to sit. 2-3 skis wide so you could just shove the ski up there with out worries.

 

modular mounts for things like Tower/Bimini so you can just go add it/sell it with out any drilling.

 

Dog house doesn't need vinyl on it - just a foam pad.

 

 

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Hi Pete, I can give you a perspective from a recreational skier/boater. I've spent all 43 summers of my life in northern WI, so am very familiar with Hydrodyne and Dyna-Ski. I have always loved the boats. Around 2010 or so, I almost bought an older Hydrodyne before I bought our 1994 Ski Nautique in 2013. It was a pretty beat up boat with an older engine. I did test drive it, and the main thing I noticed was how shallow it was, and it didn't like waves much. I'll describe how we use a boat. It spends all summer on a lift, on a public chain of lakes. We pretty much just slalom early in the morning. Later in the day we sometimes go for boat rides. Additional family members use the boat as well for other watersports activities. None of us are very good or ever will be, but we have a ton of fun trying.

 

Here are some of the things I like about our inboard. A decent wake. I like the tracking. Even though I don't need it for course skiing, it still feels nice. The boarding platform. I grew up with an inboard/outboard so I know you don't need it to teach, but it sure is convenient. The throttle and steering are so smooth (even on a 1994). I don't have speed control, and honestly don't think I will ever need it. I don't think our boat is great in rough water, but I sure don't want something that would be worse (no idea how the Dyna-Ski compares here). Sometimes we have to go through waves to get to the calm side. Or lots of boat waves when we're out people watching.

 

I think outboards provide a lot of benefits. I absolutely would buy a Dyna-Ski, and thought about it a lot. The main reason I didn't is because there doesn't seem to be much of a used market, and I wasn't (and might never be) in the position to buy new. After all, we boat in northern WI where the season is insanely short.

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@DynaSkiPete do you have any pictures of wake profile from the Dyna-Ski 20' or 17'6 at slalom speeds? trick speeds? Curious what the wake, troughs, rooster tail, spray look like. I checked your website but didn't see any.

 

Also think its really cool what your are doing with your brand. I grew up with these kind of boats. My dad still has a 14' 1955 Crosby with 25hp outboard (learned to ski behind this one) and he just recently sold a 1966 flat top.

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The days of getting an engine out of a truck and parts from the local auto parts store are long gone. Marinized inboards are full of specialty proprietary parts. As difficult to deal with as an outboard - and possibly just as expensive. Just specifying an inboard is no longer valid. That's kind of the whole point of this thread.

 

If the "Smart Tow" speed control can match the ZO options and feel outboards certainly could be a worthy option.

 

Of course, if I might think out of the box a bit, I wonder what a mid engined outboard might ski like? A fancy articulating collar for the hull, a short outboard and there might be lots of wake tuning and tracking options.

 

Eric

 

 

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When my Mastercraft wouldn't start, it was a special Indmar $ part to fix it.

 

The O2 sensors are an Indmar $ part.

 

When the American Skier custom engine cover broke the throttle sensor, that was a PCM part (scavenged off the second motor).

 

The raw water pumps which failed are $$ specialty marine parts.

 

Starters and alternators are $ marine.

 

Fuel pumps are $$ proprietary marine.

 

The ECM is $$$ marine.

 

OK, the block is Chevy. But actually it is a marine block if I want to replace it properly. And honestly, modern car stuff is pretty specific as well. You aren't going to drop a Holley carb and Mallory distributor on anything modern. I haven't been to Autozone for boat parts for a couple generations of boats.

 

I will accept that outboards are not that different from the marine conversions for maintenance. @DynaSkiPete 's love of outboards might be quite valid.

 

Eric

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@eleeski that has been my opinion for some time, we have this problem where from 1994ish onwards you have boats that have parts that will make them obsolete. I made the mistake in another thread of referring to the PCM "GT40" engine which is apparently not the way to refer to it, but at this point in time the ECM replacement is pretty cobbled.

 

There are long threads on the Mastercraft website about building a fuel pump to fit into the 94+ LT-1 fuel tanks as the Indmar version is now over 600 bucks if you can find it.

 

There are threads about purchasing Russian Crank Position sensors, and what to do if your MEFI I dies.

 

But what are you going to do for your 2013 boat in 2032 when its touch screen is NLA?

 

To compare to that there is a robust market for aftermarket alternator and starters for 1980's fords.

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My list:

1. Excellent Wake (skiing and footing)

2. Easy access to platform both from boat and water, full width platform w/a place to sit while getting ready to ski, short / low step over to platform.

3. Easy driving (nimble, excellent tracking, good vision) - not always best driver available

4. Speed control that emulates ZO pull

5. Good throttle action - for variable skier pull up requests

6. Good driver ergonomics (see #3)

7. Misc comfort optional items - seat heater / heater / hot shower / covered ski storage / defrost vent for driver (early am runs)

 

@eleeski : I had the very same thought on the outboard engine application.

 

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1. A tournament level pull

2. A wide armrest that makes throttle control easy

3. A mirror with total skier visibility (+1 for PTM)

3. Little to no chine spray

4. Easily accessible cup holder

5. Easy to reach impeller and oil filter

6. No place for a rope to snag when turning around

7. A window I can reach the water from and talk to skiers easily

8. Fuel filler on both sides

9. Trailer lights that always work

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Build quality, power, speed control, wake, large platform, easy to get from interior to platform (don't have to climb over stuff).

 

My '91 Centurion is Falcon is bad-ass and does A LOT well. I've been into 35 off at 36 mph behind it, we've pulled 6 footers behind it, we've taught a mighty lot of kids to ski behind it as it has a forgiving low speed wake. Having said that there are plus and minus to inboards and outboards.

 

My outboard looks cool, is fun to drive, goes like hell, has a ton of interior space, has a flat wake at longer lines a stiff one short. It's a pain to get back to the mini platforms with equipment, it's a bigger pain to don said equipment when on mini-platforms (think ski or wakeboard), the steering effort (even tho hydraulic) is more demanding and less precise, the throttle is less refined (perhaps the new outboard digitals resolve this), the motor is in the way of the ski rope lots of times have to flip it over despite having a guide bar that goes up and over it (my bubble butt Nautique never snags the rope), the outboard has more variables to drive properly both quickly and around the dock...the trim has a dramatic effect (can be good or bad depending...and it can back either way which is good or bad depending), the outboard hates trick speed/wake board speed doesn't want to settle in unless weighted.

 

I don't sell my outboard...it's depreciated to very low value despite being cherry. We run a closed bow Nautique on the private site which is ideal. If my outboard is replaced on the public lake, however, it will be a more versatile inboard (open bow big 3)...no way I buy an outboard.

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If I could design my own ski boat. I would try to keep it at 19'6'' and 91'' wide, closed bow. I would have a full compliment of analog gauges Two speedometers, tachometer, temp, oil, volts, and depth gauge. I would still want the speedometer in my line of sight for pulling barefooters. I would have a GPS based speedometers that would have a face of an analog gauge. I will still have two of them so the driver could still pick one to read while driving manually. It would have ZeroOff with a touch screen similar to the Master Craft, but smaller just for controlling Zero Off. The only vinyl in the boat would be the seats. The back seat would be completely removable, or have the option of flipping the seat bottom around to turn it into a carpeted step. I would design a U shaped fuel tank to allow the back seat to be pushed as far back on the transom as possible to free up as much floor space as possible, and reshape the bow to push the cockpit as far forward as possible to free up floor space. The gas tank would be integrated into the back and side walls of the boat. Ski racks along the gunnels, and along the transom with the back seat removed, sea deck flooring, with snap in carpeting. I would try to find a way to make the boat light enough where an engine like the PCM H5 would be all you need for all events. More thoughts to come.
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It is interesting to read all the comments. Dyna-Ski Boats has addressed many of them already. I will make some improvements. The old 18' (17. 6") and 20' (19' 4") are very different than the new 20' 1" (20') and 17' 9" (17.6) designs.

 

A modern Dyna-Ski does not have speed holding problems at any speed unless the marina did a bad set up job. We now avoid selling to dealers to avoid this problem. Dyna-Ski boats turn very short.

 

When your outboard gets old you can easily replace it and get modern improvements without having to sell the old boat.

 

The used market for Dyna-Ski is nonexistent because owners seem to keep them forever. Even old Hydrodynes seldom hit the used market. Three Rivers Industry last built Hydrodyne outboards in 1991 or so.

 

Dyna-Ski Boats handle big water and rough water well. Rough water ride is excellent. Several customers use their boats on the oceans of the world.

 

The driver, spotter and passengers can touch the water in the boat.

 

Sorry but snap in carpet is a joke. It shrinks and never fits right in a short period of time. Best bang for the buck is good old fashioned carpet. Cheap to replace also. We have built a couple boats with non skid floors but it is only when the customer insists on it. To rough for my tender old feet.

 

The manufacturers need to once again produce better vinyl to solve an industry wide problem of short life span. I tell everyone the seats will go bad first. Covering the interior vinyl when not in use really helps. We use fiberglass seat bases to make it easier to redo the seats.

 

The Dyna-Ski back seat comes out fairly easy as it is held in by two pins.

 

GPS Speedometer and a dash full of analog gauges has been our standard since GPS Speedometers came on the market. I love them.

 

The Dyna-Ski Blog should have moving wake pictures as we did a video for a 17.6 & 20' Open Bows. I honestly don't remember but I will figure out how to get pictures and maybe videos this summer. Blog is www.dynaskiboats.com.

 

qzh60nsy2ezs.jpg

 

17.6 with a 115 Evinrude pulling two barefoot water skiers. 75' lines with 3 people in the boat.

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Carpet doesn't meet to be carpet. Many materials used on pontoons.

And while they should be easy to replace they really aren't once you have to dismantle the interior panels seat bases and usually cut beneath the passenger base if you don't want to split the decks. Then you have all the glue.

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17.6 weighs in around 2000 lbs. Boat & Motor water ready.

20' weighs in around 2700 lbs. Boat & Motor water ready.

 

The flooring they use on pontoons looks like it belongs on a pontoon not a water ski boat.

 

Removing the carpet on a Dyna-Ski is not difficult. Our seats all have fiberglass bases. Unscrew them along with the side panels. 15 minute job. I don't care if it is hard on other folks boats perhaps they should allow for it better? Professionals have techniques and equipment that makes it much easier. Some things it is better and wiser to pay a professional to do. Sorry DIY people. I'd spent my time skiing not fixing old boats.

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@swc5150 A flap sanding wheel on the grinder make quick work of the carpet mastic without grinding the flooring glass on the American Skier. I was pretty scared when I started with solvent, scrapers and putty knives but the grinder was magic. Don't push too hard and change the sanding wheels when they gum up.

 

I'm replacing the carpet with foam pads. It's not easy or looking that good. Carpet probably would have been better. It will certainly get a free floating carpet cover over the foam. @DynaSkiPete knows his stuff.

 

And 2700 pounds is a LOT easier to tow than my MC.

 

Eric

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978 ipod songs to redo carpeting on an older boat with some cantankerous glue...although once you are at the point of no carpeting, other projects creep in since a bare boat makes them attractive so all those songs are not 100% carpet redo in fairness. And "In A Gotta Da Vita" was not in the play list:)
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Sounds like a very optimized outboard platform...as good as an outboard set up is likely to get, and will please lots of people with versatility and space. Just won't be a boat for most buoy heads. Interesting data about dealer network and price.

Replacing carpet? Original in my '91 and my '2000. The '91 got new upholstery after 20 years.

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Full width swim platforms on an outboard can be done. It is not easy and won't be cheap. I have sold Dyna-Ski Boats to slalom skiers. We leave the boarding ladder off one boarding platform. Buyers have responded "it works better than I expected it would".

 

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w93xacdk9oys.jpg

 

If we ever get caught up from building custom ordered Dyna-Ski Water Ski Boats & Recon Fishing Boats we have talked about making larger platforms for starters. The engineering for a practical platform that will last a lifetime and molds to make them is not easy or cheap.

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