Jump to content

Connelly Upgrade Advice


Mtea
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Baller
I’ve been skiing on a Connelly GS-2 for around 18 years and while I really enjoy the ski, my ability may have outgrown it. For the past three years I’ve been skiing almost every day in the summer. I never ski a course, but enjoy going out to rip it up for awhile where I find that when I aggressively carve a turn, the GS starts to slide away on me. I’m thinking an upgraded Connelly might be in order and I’ve been reading about their Concept and their V which is slightly more expensive but it’s hard to interpret what little info is out there. I’m 62 years old (on the younger end of the crew I ski with), am 5’ 9” and weigh 165. I’m a pretty decent skier and haven’t blown a deep water start in probably two years. We generally pull with a 2000 Mastercraft Prostar with the LTR 330 hp engine. Might one of these skis fit the bill better than the other? What’s really the difference? Does anybody use either of them?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller

Any new design will be wildly better than your 18 year old ski.

I don't know if Connelly has updated the Concept since it came out but that ski originally came out in the early '90's.

The skis that everyone seems to like, who ski like you describe, include the Radar Senate and the HO Omni.

I'm sure that I am forgetting a few other good choices.

Others will chime in for sure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller

In your case I would avoid the concept. it’s a great entry level high performance ski for those coming from a combo set, and it’s claim to fame is how forgiving it is.

 

The concept was my first real ski 20 years ago, and it served its purpose, but it now sits in the garage.

 

The Carbon V or the Radar Senate will leave it and your old ski in the dust!

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller
I am becoming convinced that the Radar Senate is the way to go. What size though? I usually hover between 160 and 165 pounds which is the upper end for the 65” (up to 170 pounds) and the low range for the 67” (160 to 200 pounds). My current ski is a 67” that is maximum 6.75” inches wide. The Radar Senate 65” is 6.91” wide and the 67” is 7.12” wide. What should I be considering here to decide between the 65” or the 67”?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller
A guest in my boat (10-year old) misstepped when we were unloading and stepped on my new GT while it was bagged with the fin protector on, but it still snapped like a twig right near the end of the fin. I am super bummed (I have maybe 20 sets on the ski), but I guess its time for a new stick. Anyone got a line on a good deal on a 68" GT?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller
@jjackkrash I know someone stepped on it but try calling Connelly maybe they will do something for you. I have stepped on m6 skimbefore by mistake and I weigh more than a 10 year old and they haven’t broken. Connelly doesn’t owe you anything but it doesn’t hurt to ask.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller

I suppose a call to Connelly wouldn't hurt. I was a little shocked at how it snapped. It must have been just the right pressure point. I have never seen a ski do that before.

 

It really was one of those days. I also trashed the back window on my truck canopy today backing it up to unload some lumber in my yard and caught an overhang. Some days its better to just stay in bed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller_
If Connelly won’t help you out on a full warranty replacement, ask if they could wholesale a ski to you. I wiped out a Cannondale bike on the roof of my car one time, and Cannondale gave me a brand new frame for about $800. If Connelly can’t do it for you, ask the retailer that sold you the ski. You’ll also save some $$ since you don’t need a fin and clamp.

Lpskier

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller
The new stick got here Friday night. I forgot how much I dislike trying to get the fin set up. I am using Connelly's Advance Option 1, which is the deeper fin setting. I am also using the middle hole on my single plate/Vapor binding set up like the last ski, as the measurements with a Radar Vapor binding seem useless as there is no good point to measure the front binding from with any certainty. We are camping on the Columbia, so free skiing for a week before I can get back to the course.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller

Connelly says "29.875", i.e., to the thousands of an inch. What part of the Vapor binding does Connelly mean me to measure from to get to a thousandth of an inch on a plate that lets 4itoa2h2cc2d.jpg

adjust by maybe .1 inch? I have read "stitch line," but that was on the old RS-1s.

 

It all seems a little hyper technical when I can move my CG by inches with different knee flexes and can fit into different size boots.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller

FWIW....I doubt that Connelly specifically makes any recommendation for competitors boots on their ski.

Measuring to the stitch line is still the recommendation on vapor boots by Radar.....to put it another way,

where else are you going to measure to?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller

@jordon, I guess that's my point. What's the point of measuring to "29.875 inches" unless you know the exact starting and end point of the measurement.

 

@BraceMaker, its about 29 & 3/4 inch where it is mounted to where the back of the front heal touches the plate. The "stitches" are almost 1/2" further back. This is frustrating.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller

@jjackkrash I think it's not a 29.875 +/- .001 Like a machinist might think, instead it's the decimel form of 7/8th inch such as you'd write .25 or .125"

 

You don't mean to imply the precision as much as that fractions and such don't format well in digital formats.

 

Also how would you measure that? Tough to find a vernier yard stick ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller
@BraceMaker, thanks. In another other thread just now, a member said to measure Vapor boots to the threads. If so, that means I am more than 1/2" off. On my ski that broke, Darren Wiley (Wileys) set up the binding placement for me, and said the middle hole was the closest to "factory" specs and it seemed right, but now I am questioning the whole meaning of life.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller
@BraceMaker thanks for the calming words. I found a technique that worked for me that did not involve removing the rear boot. I measured the blank ski, squared a tape line with a micrometer against the screw holes on the required measurement, and then squared a tape line on the plate basically the same way under the bottom stitch lines, then I lined up the squared tape lines (which matched perfectly on both sides after install, so I feel pretty good about it). The result was moving the binding forward exactly one hole. I feel pretty good now, but it seems like this process is unnecessarily stressful. :)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...