2015 Malibu Response- packing “nut” leaking drive shaft

[ReggieO]

Hi Folks,

 

On the drive shaft I have the water lubricant for the drive shaft, I am not sure what it’s called. However it appears to be leaking at a good rate. In my old Response, I would tighten the nut, but it appears you can’t with this one. Any suggestions on what I can do to slow or eliminate this leaking?

Thanks

Keith

[S1Pitts]

Looks like the bearing surface internally is worn out as indicated by the off center alignment of the housing as shown in the last pic. This probably took out the seal.

Others here might have knowledge if the unit is rebuild-able or requires a replacement unit.

I would be interested in finding the root cause, Something had to side load the housing for it to wear that way? Tension from the hoses or the entire assembly misaligned with the shaft? Engine, strut, shaft alignment? Maybe that over head exhaust hose pushing down on the housing?

[BraceMaker]

Seal looks like OJ @ojeric

 

That said you need to check your alignment engine may be up or just tail high

[Zman]

What you have is a mechanical seal, not packing. Nothing there to 'tighten'.

It appears by you pic that the leak is along the shaft, and not across the seal faces.

Never had one leak, but I suspect there is an o-ring between the seal face that rotates with the shaft (that bronze colored collar) and the shaft. You may be able to replace the o-ring yourself by uncoupling the shaft, removing the coupling half near the seal, then removing the collar. The collar should have a set screw holding it to the shaft.

Mark the shaft with a Sharpie so you reinstall in the same spot.

@Jody_Seal can confirm, or correct me.

[Zman]

Agree with the alignment concerns mentioned. Whether you can repair it or need a new seal unit (likely), check the alignment and be sure that 2 inch black hose isn't pressing down on the seal as @S1Pitts noted.

[BraceMaker]

@Zman don't think this one rotates.

 

The PSS style have a shaft collar that compresses a bellows and the faces seal.

 

The OJ style has inner seals that seal to the shaft itself and don't spin

 

On a retrofit I usually just use the delrin stuffing box with goretex and it's pretty set it and forget it. Plus then no water hose needed and doesn't need to be removed

[Zman]

@BraceMaker

I stand corrected. Thanks.

I should have seen that by the water flush hose attached to it.

[eleeski]

Your shaft seal has failed. It's a pain to replace but quite doable - and unfortunately a common maintenance item. Skidim had the part for my MC (I had to call) but it's readily available. You do have to get the flange off the shaft to replace the seal.

 

Remove the flange from the transmission. Unbolt the flange from the shaft - it's a big nut 1 1/4 or 1 1/8. Block the prop with a block of wood to get enough torque but it doesn't take so much torque to damage the prop. Once the nut is off, mark the shaft/flange interface (so you know when it moves).

 

Get some longer bolts for the flange/transmission flanges and put a socket between the end of the shaft and the transmission (~ a 3/4 socket with the drive end on the shaft to protect the threads). Use the longer bolts to tighten the flanges very symmetrically (I'm sure there's a proper puller you should use but I didn't ruin the flanges). With reasonable balanced tension on the flange, give the shaft a tap with a hammer - it's a bit counterintuitive to tap the shaft tighter but the shock and rebound is effective to loosen tight connections. If you are lucky, it will loosen abruptly. Stan's boat which is in clean water did that. My boat in brackish water was a struggle all the way off.

 

Now you can remove the seal assembly from the shaft. Loosen the hose clamp and work the seal assembly out. I had to remove the water hose as well to get the assembly all the way out since the snap ring was difficult for me to remove. On my boat, the seal was really stuck in place. For Stan's boat it came out smoothly.

 

Replacement was easy after cleaning everything and new seals and snap rings.

 

I waited too long to do my boat. My shaft had some grooves worn in - not sharp or deep but enough to affect the seal. Fortunately, there is enough adjustment in placement of the seal assembly that I was able to place the new seal on a good part of the shaft.

 

Good luck. Wear gloves to protect your knuckles.

 

Eric

 

@BraceMaker 's idea of just replacing everything with the old school packing system has a lot of merit.

[BraceMaker]

Just make sure to catch the goretex rope part. Basically life time service, and.The plastic glands can be adjusted by hand no wrench.

 

This one https://skiboatpartsonline.com/stuffing-box Obviously but correct size for shaft etc.

 

V drive I'd pay for a PSS.

[ReggieO]

Thanks for this insight, greatly appreciated! Any concerns if I still run it as is for the remainder of our season and get it replaced in the fall, what’s the level of urgency? How long would you expect this replacement to take?

 

Keith

[BraceMaker]

I don't mind a wet bilge but I pull the boat up and pull the plug daily.

 

It's a fast job if you have a prop puller and flange pulling tools. It's a horrid job if your prop and flange are stuck. New enough boat should be ok but don't get stuck.

[ReggieO]

ok, good to know, thanks again....mine is on a lift after every use, so I feel I am safe!

[eleeski]

I let mine leak for a few years. It put a small groove in the shaft. I was able to move the seal to a clean part of the shaft. I'm not sure I'd recommend waiting a few years but don't miss a good ski day to fix a low priority problem.

 

@BraceMaker Fast job? OK, mine was stuck and took probably 6 hours. Stan's wasn't and still took me 3 hours. Tightening a packing nut is fast and easy. Even replacing a packing is fast and easy. I'd never let an old style packing leak as much or for as long as a new failed seal.

 

Eric

[UWSkier]

Hmm. Seems the exhaust crossover hose is pressing down on it creating an unexpected load. That hose was an addition for the '15 models when they went to the PCM/Crusader engine with the single exhaust that splits into two outlets. If it is indeed pressing down on the packing, that's a problem. It's not designed for lateral loading.

[BraceMaker]

@eleeski it's all relative he already had the floor up.

 

Shaft coupler is the only tough part depending if you have the tools.

 

Hard ones were old velvet drive 1.5:1 they have no space between the flanges to work.

[BraceMaker]

Realigning engine is his trouble

[ReggieO]

Folks,

Still need help!

I am making some headway with this, the seal needs to be replaced, and its a 1 1/8, however, I need to know the size of the hose this connects to or slides through?? They tell me the seal can come in two sizes based on this hose connection????

My challenge, I need to order this seal correctly, so before I take the boat out of the water to take it apart, I would like to have the right size on hand, if not, I take it apart, measure the hose and order the part, it will take a week to get, thus laying up the boat.... The distributor is on the West coast of the US and we are on the East Coast....

Any insight for my 2015 Malibu Response TXi.

Thanks

[Gar]

Try ski.dim

[Rednucleus]

Or buy both then return the one you don't use

[ReggieO]

Thanks folks, ski-dim was a big help....for future reference if anyone needs this info.....the hose is 1 3/4.