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Is my engine toast?


LoopSki
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Went to pull my son just now and the engine sounded funny. As we headed down course engine sounded really funny and loud beep came on with an exclamation point. Put it back on lift and popped the hatch. There is a green liquid down there. Cant seem to locate where its coming from or if ots related. 2017 MC with 300hours.
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You prob toasted the impeller and the engine went into limp mode from the overheat. That green is lake dye. You ordered your boat if I recall, so you’d know for sure if you bought closed cooling. I’d bet when you put in a new impeller, the engine will fire up fine.
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They’re a bitch to put in. I wrap the new impeller with a metal hose clamp to get the fins bent in the direction I want for easier insertion, otherwise I’ve found it to be next to impossible on the newer boats.
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That impeller looks like it was run dry. Do you have a petcock valve on your raw water intake, or do you have a strainer that may have cracked and had it sucking in a bunch of air? Usually they'll shed a few fins but won't look that deformed. At least on the ones I've replaced (all classic Johnson crank-mounted).
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Also, good way to remove a stuck impeller is with two straight blade screwdrivers. Hold them opposite each other and press them against the impeller hub on opposite sides just a little bit inside the housing. Pry against the housing by pushing the screwdriver handles away from you. Should pop right free.

 

A little petroleum jelly or personal lubricant (don't laugh, it works) helps a lot when trying to get the new impeller in. It helps to turn it a bit as you push it into the housing too so the splined shaft can find alignment on the hub.

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I would encourage everybody, to lift there engine cover, give a quick look over, belts, engine oil, gearbox oil and bilge.

Why ruin your day, for 5 minutes of your time, note if your engine tone changes or you notice the engine is making just that little bit more noise, like a throaty sound, likely cause would be your impeller is on the way out.

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Those Ilmore engines are nice to look at. I crack my cover open when not in use anyway, you should check oil/trans level occasionally.

 

I just replaced my '17 impeller (1st time it was replaced @600 hours) looked new, came out without too much effort. I'm guessing that one ran dry at some point.

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I constantly have this conversation with people I ski with.

Impellers, oil, fuel filters are so cheap why don’t people change them annually

Oil every 50 hrs fuel filters and impellers every winter.

And have a good look at everything else.

Plugs, wires, dist cap, grounds, look for any corrosion.

Strainers, hoses,

A couple hrs in the off season or before the boat goes in can save Valuable ski time in the summer.

Not to mention all the sad faces on the dock when the boats broke down

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I don't replace my impeller every year as I put a very low number of hours on my boat unfortunately. I do however pull the impeller every winter and place in a zip lock bag and put it in my glove box. This gives me a chance to inspect my impeller and doesnt sit over the winter with the fins stressed in the housing.
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I've never understood why there isn't just an intake water flow sensor on boat engines.

 

Every hot tub has some form of flow sensor to ensure there is water through the heater. Its just a spring loaded arm in the flow with a contact, if that contact breaks the circuit breaker shuts off the heater. Think how many overheats you hear about from impellers, clogged intakes and clogged strainers.

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@LoopSki - Given the appearance of the impeller, I would check the housing for any damage on the contact surfaces also. Before I would make the assumption the green is dyed lake water, verify you do not have closed cooling but if you do, check the level. Also, when you repair, check cooling system for debris particularly at the trans cooler inlet.
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I've never owned a closed cooling boat, so forgive me if this is a dumb question: If it's a closed cooling boat, why does it need a raw water pump/impeller?

Sam Avaiusini - HO Sports Company - Director of Inside Sales and Business Operations

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@savaiusini good q. Raw water is still used to pull heat out of the cooling system via a heat exchanger, and you still need raw water dumps into the exhaust to cool it. So even in a closed-cooled boat, it's still the lake water providing the cooling effect. The water is just cooling coolant instead of cooling the block itself.
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@MNshortliner that's what have me so confused because I couldn't understand what green liquid would come out of my engine. then I remembered how green blue our water is and that we had six kids playing in and out of the boat for the last 4 days. This is a little statue that I filled his bowl up with lake water you'll see how blue grren it

 

src="https://us.v-cdn.net/5017617/uploads/editor/tm/qnaov17d7568.jpg" alt="" />

 

 

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. Im trying to install a new impellar my Prostar and I can't get the new one in for the life of me. Im very frustrated as this task has taken 10minutes on my past boats. Ive tried all my tricks in the hat. No matter what I do, the key falls out of place. I disconnected both hoses now as it finds it way out of the water pump. Not only am i wasting time looking for the key in the bilge, im losing ski time. Ive tried ky jelly , wd40 and zip tide the impellar to go in easier. It doesnt matter. I cant line it up and out goes the key. Its beyond frustrating , this should take no time. As owners with this boat , its not possible to bump the motor so that the key sits on top. My luck its sitting on the left side so im in a bad spot as it is. I hate to take to dealer for what should be so easy. Anyone have any tricks I have not tried. Only thing I can think of is to remove the pump to have easir access.
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Not familiar with the setup on that particular boat but I'd imagine bumping to reorient the shaft won't hurt. Just don't run it for more than a few seconds. You may also be able to turn it a bit by pulling on the serpentine belt.

 

I'm a bit surprised they use a keyed shaft rather than splined. That stinks.

 

Can you slip the impeller in, align it, then slide the key in?

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Short answer is lock the belt tensioner back all the way with a drill bit so you can spin the pump shaft by hand, put the key at 12 so it doesn't fall out, push impeller part way in and wiggle the pump shaft to line up the key, this isn't a short answer is it? Oh yeah beer, some beer, not too much.
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with installing and removing impellors some brands come with some lube you can use to lubricate during install and initial start, its really helpful. At the boat service centre i work at in school holidays we have purpose made impellor removal tools which work well.

 

check your oil level as that may or may not be a hint! good luck

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@LoopSki - if you can't use the starter to bump over, you should be able to use a large screwdriver to try at the flywheel to get keyway in a better location.

(I am making the assumption there is a hole in the bellhousing to poke the screwdriver through, could be a poor assumption given no need for timing marks anymore)

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To remove, Lots and Lots of Lube and two pairs of thin nosed Mull Grips,

Fitting, Fit it into plastic tube same diameter as recess, position and push from the other end with bit of broom stick.

Probably easier to drop it in a bowl of hot water, lube it and just push it in, with a little twist.

 

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