5.7 distributor

[jimski]

Has any one had the tabs break off of the distributor under neith where the cap screws on

I’m attempting to JB weld half the tab back on rather than buy a new distributor @Jody_Seal

 

[skihacker]

Really common in older GM trucks, moisture a bigger deal in a boat, maybe a thin coating of rtv on the bottom of the cap and gently screw it down.

[rodecon]

This is a timely post

 

I have the same issue on my 07 Malibu RLXI Indmar and was planning to replace the distributer this winter.

 

Do I have another option?

[Rednucleus]

Based on the JB weld repair pictured, consider using a zip tie to hold the cap down rather than the original screw. Hoping it would put less stress on the repair that way. Or rather than have the plastic threads doing the work, what about a slightly longer & smaller diameter screw with a nut on the end?

[skihacker]

Keep in mind you arent bolting down a head bolt or lug nut, a long zip tie along with the screw certainly worth a try, the cap needs to stay put but not a lot of force needed.

[jimski]

@Rednucleus @skihacker the first picture was the start of the epoxy repair.

After building up the tab I drilled a hole through and replaced the screw with a bolt, washer any a nylock nut.

@rodecon apparently it’s a common problem with the plastic base distributors. Time and heat breaks down the plastic.

Dorman makes a repair plate that I have ordered part # 90449.

If this doesn’t work I’ll be forking out the 1000 $ CAD for a new PCM distributor.

Any one know if a MDS aluminum body distributor will work in these PCM engines.

 

[oldjeep]

Looks like a standard hvs distributor. The aluminum indmar version is 500. The mercruiser versions can be had for about 120

https://www.ebay.com/i/324231005219?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28

[jimski]

Thanks @oldjeep

Mercruiser it is

[aupatking]

NAPA Pt# NOE 6551259. It’s the “Vortec distributor repair plate” $30.49

I’m having a hell of a time keeping my distributor from corroding on the contacts and running like total crap. Anyone else have that issue on the Excalibur engine and have found a way to fix it?

 

[skihacker]

@aupatking the trick in auto and truck world was always spend the extra $$ on "real" gm ignition parts, especially the cap, the aftermarket ones were always crap.

[oldjeep]

The trick is to stop buying automotive caps and get the ones with the brass contacts. Either Accel or there are some other brands - skidim sells some. The cap that came on my 2012 was a standard GM automotive cap (aluminum, not brass) that corroded like crazy. This problem is worse in V drives like mine where the distributor sits right under the pylon and has a steady drip of water hitting it.

 

The Accel numbers for the HVS caps and rotors are

120141 - Cap (Replaces AC Delco D329A)

130141 - Rotor (Replaces AC Delco D465)

 

[h2onhk]

+1 on the Marine grade cap/rotor. Brass is the only way to go. My 07 196 has the 330 excalibur. Just over 500hrs. Went through three rotors and two caps in the last two years. We average about 50hrs a summer and I always make sure my bildge is clean/dry. Also leave the dog house up after use to air it out while wiping it down. Aluminium automotive caps and rotors don't last. Bought an OEM marine brass cap/rotor from discount inboard marine this July along with full tune up kit (plugs and wires). Boat ran like a top for the of the summer which was almost 60hrs. I've lived through the pain of that stupid cap. See below.

 

https://www.ballofspray.com/forum#/discussion/23744/pcm-330-help

[aupatking]

I went all brass with MSD, still having the issue. Maybe I just buy a new one every year

[h2onhk]

@aupatking how old are your plugs/wires?

[skihacker]

I wasn't saying to use car parts, use the correct factory parts whatever the application, indmar or pcm or whatever the case may be

[rodecon]

Many thanks @aupatking , that repair plate is genius and just saved me alot of time and $$

 

Happy Thanksgiving all!

[aupatking]

Plug wires are new (this year) PCM wires, as well as new plugs. Like I said, it’s been a battle. I’ve replaced just about everything.

[DW]

@aupatking - you might want to try an authentic Delco cap, not an aftermarket version. The Mercruiser stuff is robust.

[fu_man]

I have the same issue. Even the brass caps get oxidized. Use wet/dry sandpaper to get the oxidation off at the beginning of each season. Has worked for me for the last 5-6 seasons

[fu_man]

@jimbrake Nice job on the fix. Looks fairly sturdy.

[Jody_Seal]

@jimski

Orilys! 1996 chevy Tahoe, 5.7. Less then $200. Use the brass cap pcm cap and rotor set.

 

[jimski]

Thank you @Jody_Seal

[Jody_Seal]

If you wind up plucking that out and replacing it , reminder you can't use a timing light to set the cam offset. Diacom or E-com needs to be utilized.

[jimski]

I didn’t know that thanks @

[jimski]

Thanks

I didn’t know that @Jody_Seal

[kurtis500]

@jimski

 

Id check the MSD distributor first, especially the diameter of the base to make sure its not too wide. MSD sometimes doesnt make distributors to be drop in factory replacements and wont fit with accessories/manifold or etc. bolted nearby.

 

Also, like alternators and starters some distributors are NOT meant for use under a marine engine cover. Just an FYI for a commonly overlooked safety item.

[RichardDoane]

If corrosion build up is a problem, make sure you use shop air and a blow tip to clean/blast the vent screens in the base of the housing. In automotive distributors it makes a big difference. Fresh air is your friend.

[jimski]

Got out for a set today and ran the boat for about 45 min. Everything held together just fine.

But I tell ya it’s in the back of my mind, if and when it’s going to pop the distributor cap off.

More than likely my wife will be driving.

 

[kurtis500]

@jimski

 

the zip tie idea would help a lot.

[jimski]

@rodecon the repair plate showed up today seems to be a snug fit

 

[rodecon]

@jimski , thats awesome, I have one ordered as well, looks like a slick fix