Tips to flatten the wake 87 Supra SunSport

[papp101]

Hi team,

 

Any suggestions for flattening the weights on this 87 supra sunsport? The wake plate is dead flat right now, but I've never adjusted one before.

 

It also looks like the supra forums is down as well, or else I may have asked there.

 

 

Thoughts?

Thanks!

 

 

[Mastercrafter]

How fast are you going and what line length? The wake looks like a pretty pronounced, wide 2 humps with a table / trough in the middle… interesting. I don’t know the boat but most 80s ski boats are manageable “as-is”. A little more ankle bend and weight forward may help with the ski bounce and perceived size of the wake. As you progress, more angle, lean, and speed through the wakes makes everything seem a little easier.

[Zman]

From your current "dead flat", you want to make the plate move downward by extending the 2 support rods. Also, be sure all the screws that hold the plate to the bottom of the hull are snug.

The Supra wake should improve somewhat as the bow is driven downward, which is what moving the wake plate downward will do.

Also, be sure you do not have any excess weight in the back of the boat.

The improvement will be minor, and may sacrifice a little top end speed.

The Sunsport wake should be fairly good, but not like later day comp boats.

Good luck.

[papp101]

Thank you both! Agreed with the increase skills, that wake should be less of an issue for me. We'll try a little plate adjustments to see if it changes things. Currently no extra weight in the back of the boat. But it's still fun!

 

I'll report back.

[JayG80]

I’ve heard it will flatten in 2 weeks.

[Zman]

@papp101 Adjust both corners in about 1/8 inch increments. Test, repeat.

There is a point of diminishing returns.

[jjackkrash]

You can try 50 lbs. of shot in the front of the bow and see if that helps. It might make it worse but it might also flatten it out a bit. Also, I agree with the above post, you are pretty heavy on the back foot and a little flat hitting the wake. That is going to make the wake seem worse than if you were balanced with more weight on your front foot and more on edge. Don't ask me how I know. :wink:

[ReallyGottaSki]

Much as been said,

Take everything unnecessary out of the boat

Move everything necessary forward.

 

Too much bias to the rear foot, not enough pressure on the front

Too much flex at he hip

Stand up. stand on the front. fix your stance after every cut.

The body demonstrating too much compliance to the wake, and rear bias, hence the bouncing oscillation on exit.

Stand tall, hips forward, stiffen up isometrically and smash it

[papp101]

I am going to move my boot plate forward one hole (69" radar senate, stock settings) to see how that helps- since this video I've been bending more at the knees to roll forward, then handle down and hips up, getting the weight off the back foot. I can feel that it's possible and maybe the boot adjustment would help.

 

Thanks all!

[BraceMaker]

@papp101 something with that boat is the fuel tank is huge. I think it holds 40 gallons. Our neighbor had ones years ago, and his fuel gauge didn't work. Every time he used it he put in 5 gallons until the thing was full to the brim and the wake was ginormous.

 

Eventually he fixed the gauge and started running it down and keeping it at 1/4 tank on the gauge which was still something like 15 gallons of gas plenty to ski a bunch.

 

Boot movements are sometimes counter intuitive, if you think of yourself as a fulcrum and the ski as a lever, there is a point on the ski where the center of your body mass is positioned, then there is a length of ski in front and a length of ski behind you.

 

If you move that center point forwards the tail is effectively longer and does not want to slide/smear on the water. To make it do so you stand on the backfoot and force the ski to start to turn. But then you are standing backfoot heavy and rotating backwards at the conclusion.

[papp101]

@BraceMaker thanks for that. In my skiing, I haven't started turning yet, just timing to the outside, pause and dipping back into the wake. I have been wondering about that, though, if indeed my "pivot" or foot position is correct, but I'm just not rolling over my ankle far enough, or standing up straight enough!

 

I do feel like I can almost unweight my back foot completely, but maybe I'm still bent at the hips?

[Jetsetr]

I run my Echelon with a max of 1/2 tank of fuel. It holds 38 gallons. Also took the rear seat out (50# less). With the rear seat out you can see the tank and the fuel level (because we all know how accurate fuel gauges are, right???) Makes a BIG difference.

 

X2 on slicing thru wakes vs bouncing over the tops, too much weight on the ski aft.

[BraceMaker]

@papp101 the turning is less important by far than body position. You basically want to work on drills that put you in the right body position to ride the ski.

 

One that is awesome if you are on open water and have a good driver I call doing the drop drill.

 

On small lakes and when skiing the course usually the skier drops at both ends. The boat driver will turn away and the skier cits out under that extra whip from the boat and drops into the water. Riding that whip is a great place to be in and feel that alignment.

 

But if you are on big open water with a willing driver set up outside the wakes towards shore, driver needs to pay attention to you but you cut out he whips you by turning out then you ride that glide as far as possible. Only instead of letting you drop the driver just picks a course slightly out and you ride that whip till the line goes tight again.

 

Then the driver sets up and you repeat this over and over there are no turns or wake crossings so wakes do not matter. You can do this on any boat Repeat over and over on both sides till you have a rock solid position where you can cut out whip and glide as far as possible.

 

When doing this you should see that when you are up on the ski standing tall the water breaks by your front toes and sprays to the sides. When you lean back it sprays water forwards. During the glide stage practice squirting water forwards that is the brakes if you were going to hit a dock. But feel that speed.

 

Then I would do wake crossings even less turning than you currently are. Stand by the spray on the left. Pull out glide then cut through the wakes and glide. Then instead of crossing just go by the spray on the right pull out to the right glide and then cut across to the left and glide. Rinse and repeat. You say you aren't turning but in reality you still are this drill breaks that for you and teaches you wake crossing position and starts you out properly wide every pass.

 

[Keukaskier]

I had the same boat and only free skied on it. I never had my tank above 1/4 full, skied 34-36 mph usually 28-32 off and the wakes were actually pretty nice!