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Want to drive an engineer nuts?


lpskier
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So in discussions with engineers over the years, they uniformly tell me that it shouldn’t make any difference what calipers you use, you should always get the same measurements. Here’s three sets of calipers and three different measurements. Top and bottom are close: .683 and .689. The middle is .672. Not even close. Top calipers are mine. Anytime brand. I remeasred with each and got consistent results each time, so it’s the arrow, not the Indian.

Lpskier

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Calipers are horrible tool for measuring distance from tail, and since it’s not measuring off guaranteed / calibrated surfaces, it’s no surprise they read different there.

 

Talking waterskiing, length and depth should be pretty close, but even length has a lot of human input involved with leading edge angle.

 

Good, regularly certified calipers (talking machine shop/toolmaker) will all read the same down to about 5 tenths (.0005), every time.

 

More accurate requires micrometers.

 

Technically not an engineer because I dropped out of college, but look, you are driving me crazy.. it worked!

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@lpskier you must be talking to some oddball engineers or they don’t understand how to measure fins. I’m surprised your numbers were that close?

 

Caliper brand won’t matter if you are measuring a flat surface like they are intended, but measuring round surfaces on a ski is not what they were designed to do.

If it was easy, they would call it Wakeboarding

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@Bruce_Butterfield it still can. Cheap digitals particularly are bad not why you would think but because good ones shut off if the battery gets low. Cheap digital will turn on and operate and not warn you but start dropping pulses. Add to that cheap ones use battery super fast even when off you better take the battery out when not in use. My mitutoyu takes 3 years to kill a battery. I have a harbor freight that takes about a month even when off. Means every cheap digital out there probably needs a new battery every time you set a fin.

 

 

 

 

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