Dano

I second what @DW says. Marine hardware is a great source.

If it doesn’t have an alarm you can easily install one. Not sure if these are any good, was just a quick google search. https://defender.com/en_us/aqualarm-wet-exhaust-overheat-alarm-kit#:~:text=The Aqualarm Wet Exhaust Overheat,damage to your marine engine.

It looks like I’m getting pretty close on settings. Iooks like it’s maintaining speed well without surging. all my times look slightly fast, so I think it’s slowing ball 6 to exit gate. Does it make sense to adjust ball 1 and ball 3 setting down a little?

I ski on the NRG R2. When my bindings are too far forward I experience the same things you are. Try moving front boot back one hole or 1/4”

There’s gotta be another explanation here other than catching a buoy or slamming reverse. I’d think the rope or bungee used for the buoy would snap long before it could apply enough pressure to stop a boat moving at speed. Slamming a boat into full reverse at speed likely results in a stalled engine and/or mechanical failure, I wouldn’t expect a dampner plate to hold up well to those kind of forces. The way that boat nose dived immediately, it had to have been met with a significant force. You can see the buoy we think he hit still floating as the boat floats away.

@Horton I really wasn't intending for this thread to go down this rabbit hole again. @ColeGiacopuzzi what I was suggesting is that manufacturers could mark their plates where their binding places the ankle bone specific for each size boot. Skis could be marked where the ankle bone was intended to be located. Line up the mark of any binding plate to the line on the ski and go ski. Individual skiers may prefer to be forward or back of that still. But I think it would get initial set ups much closer. I don't know if it's even worth having the discussion still since I know skiers with my exact ski and some are bindings forward (29.75")and others are back (29"), which is a much bigger spread than I had thought I would see. none of them are at factory measurement. I don't know if those measurements differ so much do to binding style or more just to individual preference. I'm quite sure I have mine where I like them now. But I spent a lot of sets experimenting with different positions and trying to give them an honest effort to adapt/ski well at each binding location. It has been an interesting and frustrating process.

@BraceMaker I have to agree with those words. a line across the ski with binding plates marked for ankle bone placement, v notch on plates indicating where ankle bone will be located. It's not that the current system is hard to measure, it's just that currently there are too many variables to know how the manufacturer arrived at recommended setting. Back of heel is no good as it changes with foot size and style/manufacturer. In my messing around at least I have learned that I can like binding forward and binding back but for different reasons. Inbetween or too far either way does not feel great. Forward is more work behind the boat to create the same space and may feel more stable into and around the buoy. I think it may require a skier to be technically better than binding back though. Back seems to create space more readily, but can feel a little loose into the buoy, allows for more aggressive skier movements without being penalized. Or maybe I'm just all over the map and need to quit messing around and just go ski. Which is probably more of what is reality than anything I just typed.

define productive. If trying to set a new PB every set it's going to be tough to do that every day. If you are working on technique, timing and rhythm at longer lines or maybe slower speeds you can ski a lot more. Running passes that you run 99% of the time, always in control, staying stacked, and not taking any slack hits, is still productive.

@Horton thank you very much for sharing.

@Horton thanks for the input. I have read the threads on ankle bone and agreed that is a good method. But it only works if you have 2 boots to compare and I do not. I have a radar boot on a D3 ski. I chose the Reflex binding to compare it too since it seems like the most popular boot being used and the most likely candidate for the boot used when ski manufacturers arrive at recommended settings. I was looking for a more direct comparison of somebody that has both "if reflex boot measures xx then your Radar boot will measure xx and your foot will then be in the same spot". I'm just curious to know if my set up is close to what others are finding success on. I've had my binding all over the place and have skied well on it, problem is I'm not good at setting up a ski, so It's hard for me to tell if I'm in the right spot or just adjusting myself to suit an inferior set up. if i knew i have my boot as close as possible to where it is intended to be perhaps it would help guide me. Ya I know this topic has been repeated over and over but in none of the threads has it been definitive. I get it stock is just a recommendation and each skier may adjust forward or back to suit. But I still feel like having the knowledge of where actual recommended is, would make things easier.

@skialexThanks for the advice. I don’t have a reflex boot to compare it too is the problem. In your scenario above, if your reflex boot measured say 29.5 do you know what the measurement works out to on the radar to the bottom stitch?

Does anybody have a some insight as to how these two boots compare when mounting and measuring as per manufacturer recommendations? For instance Radar says to measure to the lower stitch line at the heal, and Reflex looks like they measure to the rear most part of the heal. from pics of those 2 bindings it looks like the Reflex measurement would place the foot significantly further forward when using the same measurement to the back of the ski.

All of this is really good. Skiing big lake public water from ice off, to 70 degrees you can really notice some differences. Especially when going to tournaments that might be 85 degrees. I didn’t understand it but I would have to tell myself “do less” in the warm water. First couple sets in warm water I’d do weird stuff like overturning or falling over on easy passes. I can certainly relate to your discussion, thanks for helping me understand it better.

Like @Drago noted, his ski is rapidly rotating out of angle to follow the handle path, this allows him keep his elbows pinned as he swings up high on the boat.

@scoke thanks for taking the time to respond and for the clarification. I think I pretty much understood it in the ways you have described. Skiing is hard and I’m still trying to crack the code one step at a time. All the info on here BOS is super helpful.

Dave Wingerter. IMG_8696.mov

Jamie Bull -38 I think. IMG_8694.mov

I can appreciate that people like to surf, or wakeboard or fish or whatever on a public lake. I get it we are not all skiers. The surf boats have gotten a little crazy though. They have rules that limit power boats in lakes, they should be considering limiting use of ballast or wakeshapers on smaller lakes or lakes that are narrow. Here in Canada our boat licensing is laughable. An online course that a dog could pass. Maybe making a meaningful boat operators course that teaches both rules, regulations, operation, and etiquette would be a good start followed by actually policing the lakes. Just enforcing the no drinking and driving would remove 50% of the boats from our lakes. Maybe a bit of exaggeration but you get the point.

I can't say enough good things about Slines. I'm using the X series rope and I had purchased a handle as soon as they were available. Rope has been fantastic and is my favorite rope to date. My handle rubber didn't stand up. I contacted Scott who looked at my order and verified it was from his first run and are now using a better material. I told him I'd like to buy one of the new ones. Scott stood by his product and offered me a replacement handle. I got the new one last week and it seems to be a very high quality and the rubber is indeed different than the first. We'll see how it holds up over time. Regardless my next rope and handle will come from SLINES because of his commitment to deliver a high quality affordable product with excellent customer service.

I read a thread I think it was @scoke who said "learn to ski with your legs instead of trying to lean/pull harder" not the exact quote but that's how I remember it. I'm not exactly sure what he meant but, I spent some time trying figure out how to get away from those massive leans. Took some time but I think I'm on the right track. My scores are up, consistency is way up, and my body is pain free. Haven't cracked -35 yet but it's coming soon.

@Mastercrafter Malibu was the 6.2. For my skiing i find I choose the C1 for boats that feel like they are on me relentlessly.

@MISkier I recently bought Reese which quit ratcheting first day. Returned them replacement with same result. I then bought Fulton and have not had an issue with them in over a year.

2023 pro star B2. 2023 Malibu C1. Can’t remember the years but most 200’s A2. 2006 197tt C1.

try a little anti-seize and you can stop buying screws by the bag.

@lpskier I’ve heard the binding spread should be roughly 12”. My current spread is 11 1/4. I use rear toe and my toes are less than 1/4” from my front heal. I pushed to 12” and gave it a solid try to prove it was better for nearly a dozen sets. For me it was not better. Could it be for some? Yes but I don’t think it’s fair to say that should be a rule. Feet closer is easier to get tall over top of your front foot.