sgregg

Wonder what engine/octane they were using at Okeeheelee in 2000. https://www.sun-sentinel.com/news/fl-xpm-2000-09-24-0009240153-story.html

@bassfooter - PP to ZO was the only change to the dash, using the original throttle. You will need to fabricate a shim to raise the engine box approx 1.5” - pm me if you would like more info on that @ski6jones - yes, swapped props from a 422 to a 668

Right around $15K for parts (409, series 80 transmission, ZO) + labor, minus what can be recouped from selling the GT40, series 40 transmission, Stargazer/ZBox). Upgrading the transmission was not required but we plan to keep the boat forever. The only issue we ran into was impingement between the forward edge of the aft/center floor panel and the exhaust elbow/tubes. The exhaust elbows had to be moved back about an inch to clear the cooling system plumbing on the back of the 409 and after shifting them aft, there wasn’t space for the floor panel without shaving about an inch off its length. I suspect there is a more elegant way of making room for the exhaust than taking a saw to the floor panel…

Doug Moss just finished doing a ZO conversion/6.0L repower on our ‘98SN - super happy with the result

Thanks @Jody_Seal and @thager - I made contact with the CC Forum guys. Trying to replicate their spacer. Seeing how much marine grade plywood is going for these days, a donor engine box might have been a less expensive approach!

Thanks - haven’t had any luck so far making contact with the guys that did the conversion on the reverse gel posted on the CC forum.

Does anyone have a template/plans for building the engine box spacer/shim needed for a 98SN/non-cat 409 conversion? We know the height requirement, just looking for something better than the cardboard/magic marker tracing we have so far.

If you would like to try and fix the GPS issues, Perfect Pass will reflash your puck

@wish our times are consistently within .01 to .02 ball to ball (98SN, GT40, ACME 422, Zbox with Version 9). We will occasionally see .03 but that can usually be attributed to something that happened at the other end of the rope. We typically run “Normal” skier weight - skiing at 1000’ above sea level, 30-34mph, 15-35off. We have the 98SN, a 2015 200 (dual puck) and a 2014 TXi (dual puck) in our rotation, no one is complaining about pull differences between the boats. Huge improvement over previous software versions, maybe we got lucky when we did the initial calibration - we did need to reflash our puck due to GPS issues but other than that the system has been super in our case.

Hard to go wrong with something like this for an “entry-level” analog, simple to work on ski boat https://www.ski-it-again.com/php/skiitagain.php?endless=summer&topic=Search&category=Boat_3Event&postid=56087

I have heard a rumor that the river course is always blown-out and infested with alligators/water moccasins and oversized beaver (with rabies)

Sure great to have people out there trying to improve the equipment for our sport

Was hoping to pay to get the seams resealed in my Oneill Boost - this is the reply as of a couple weeks back: “ Unfortunately we are no longer offering a paid repair service. If the suit is under warranty (1 year) you can send it in Thanks Customer Service O'Neill Wetsuits, LLC”

@GregHind - here is some info from Aaron at Perfect Pass. “You basically need a 5V supply and a serial port. You power it up with 5V on the RED, and ground on the BLACKS (there are a few of them). Then you receive data on the WHITE and send data on the GREEN. You'll have to peel back the heat shrink and possibly outer casing of the cable to get at the GREEN wire (it's not brought out on the 3-pin connector)” Picture of the connector for the ZO puck is attached

2nd on using a drop ski - I put mine on a line with a fishing weight at the end to keep it in one spot so we don’t have to chase it around between passes. It isn’t perfect, but using the drop ski has kept me on the water instead of losing weeks of the season recovering from tweaking it when getting out of the water.

Short train ride from downtown Auckland - great folks http://www.awsc.co.nz/

We are hoping to spend February near Palm Springs/Indio - are there any lakes in the area offering a monthly memberships? We would have our boat in tow... Sent a couple of notes to "Sunset Ranch Oasis" near Indio but haven't been successful in making contact Thanks!

Just upgraded from Version 8.06 to Version 9.01 - could not be more satisfied. Our boat was already pretty dialed in with Version 8.06 but 9.01 locks speed in more quickly/smoothly and helps on our short setup - no RPM surging/hunting issues - simply rock solid speed control ('98 SN, Stargazer/ZBox) Absolutely outstanding customer service from Perfect Pass...Mark tailored my upgrade so the software would include support for Smart Timer/Magnet timing - very nice backup feature to have available in case a GPS puck dies and your course has magnets Highly recommend the upgrade!

Just spent a week with SkiJay and my buddy's at Ski Paradise - wow! I was pretty much a "set-it and forget-it" kind of guy - quickly learned I had no idea what I was doing - Jay improved the set-up on all of our skis. If you want to get the most out of your ski investment, either get the book or take advantage of his tuning services (or both) - highly recommend!!

Could not be more impressed by Wiley's outstanding customer service! Simply great folks to work with

How does Vapor sizing compare to shoe size? Having tried on a Profile, it seemed like I would need to go up at least one size to get a good fit (size 10.5 foot seemed very tight in a size 11 Profile, width fine, just didn't seem to have enough length)

Summer is not over...summer is not over...

@ PACO, I haven't mapped with ZO and not sure which is "correct" - I think AWSA tournament rules for GPS mapping are to map when the pylon is aligned with the gates - perhaps someone that is familiar with ZO can explain why they are using puck location If you are using different references on the boat (puck location/engine box/etc) to map gate location, I suspect you might notice slight differences in where the timer starts running from boat to boat - but once the timer start running, it really is a question of fine tuning your system

@WBLskier, as far as I know, the only difference between running SG with a smart timer/magnets vs mapping the course is how the timer is triggered - if you map a course and run with a smart timer, it starts timing/propagates a GPS course based on the first thing it passes (mapped GPS coord or magnet). The guys at Perfect Pass advise not to map if you are going to use a smart timer, either map/no smart timer or smart timer/no mapping. As @BCM mentions, the mapped GPS position of the gates vs where they actually are can drift - very simple to fix by re-mapping, but if your course has magnets, a smart timer eliminates the "drift" @WaterSkier12 - SG/ZBox works great for us ('98SN/ACME422). We split our time between a couple of SN200s and the '98, SG/ZBox isn't ZO, but n our case, the '98 pull feels much closer to ZO with ZBox than running SG without it