ScottScott

@Bruce_Butterfield Edit: correct, no cap and rotor on a 2020. Yes cap and rotor on 5.7 up to 2019. I'm sure you could run quite a while with the plugs. My last Tundra I never changed plugs and had over 300k miles over 12 years. But, if you're doing the rest....why not (it is part of the scheduled 300 hour service.)

@MarkTimm plugs, wires, (edit; no cap, rotor,) on top of 50 and 100 hour services of oil, filter, trans, Trans filter, impeller. Check engine alignment....and probably a couple other things. Edit: I forgot belt and air filter

How many hours? Theres a big maintenance at 300 hours.

That's obviously not the prostar spec sheet. They surely just posted the wrong boats specs

@Jody_Seal I see under some PCM specs a fuel pressure of 57-62 which is comparable to the MCs at the rail. But, the PCM rail is 580-2100. Is there a pump on the fuel rail that takes it up to the 580-2100 and the FCC would still work, or does that pressure come off the FCC. Or maybe thats the newer engines?

VERY IMPORTANT TO ANYONE CONISIDERING A CHECK VALVE TO RESOLVE THIS ISSUE!!!!!! Upon further research it appears that adding a check valve to a return-less fuel system is a BAD IDEA. The pressure regulator that is part of the fuel pump module used is designed to bleed off excess pressure while also maintaining just enough pressure in the line while not running for a quick start. A check valve will serve to hold the pressure while not running, but will not allow anywhere for excess pressure to go if the heat from the engine heats the gas and causes pressure to increase in the fuel line and fuel rails. This can potentially overload the pressure capabilities of the rails, hose, and injectors potentially causing damage to the injectors or gas leaks that can result in fire. That idea is officially scrapped, and back to trying to source a suitable replacement pressure regulator.

Longer and/or wider skies

@wski1831 The boat is usable, but not fixed. Starts are slow at times. I have seen a number of check valves that look like they'll do the job. I'm still trying to see if I can source the exact pressure regulator so I can just replace and have everything as designed 1st....but that is proving to be difficult.

Our spotter

Coming from one of those "lower level skiers," when I'm skiing well I feel this happening. I always considered it to be a result, more than a cause tho. Maybe it is something to think about.....but when I set things up with a good gate, with head up and good vision to 1 ball....it just happens, and sets my rhythm up for the rest of the pass. (it doesn't happen often, but when it happens I feel it.)

35th seems to be an odd year to have one. I wouldn't expect to see a 55th either, but after a 35th...who the hell knows.

This whole thing is fishy. Most fishy is this mysterious profile @BigSpray that just seems to have appeared our of no-where with a PRIVATE profile. This harms the legitimacy of the whole forum.

With ZO engaged it will only apply throttle up to the relative amount to where your throttle lever is positioned. IF there isn't enough throttle based on that throttle position for it do make the correction the way it thinks it should, there will be a series of fast beeps. (at least on our setup, maybe that varies with boats/systems?) For a light skier, just being slightly higher than where it engages should be ok. For someone that puts more of a load on the boat, full throttle is where you want to be. When driving I always have one hand on throttle so I can pull back quick if something gets weird.

@markn and @dave2ball No telling if it's the case in above post, but scrolling on a phone it's easy to accidentally hit a dislike, disagree (or any of the reactions) without knowing it. I have many dislikes snd disagree, im sure those were all accidental......wouldn't get too worked up over it.

There is the opposite compensation to the loss of speed out of the buoy, but that may be done purely relatively to amount of time below speed that it just matches in above speed time independent of where it is related to buoys. However, there is a slight bump in speed before pregate that will be dependent on accurate course mapping.

@Cnewbert On team talk, some said they picked up the $15 one from Harbor Freight, then some recommended against it. I was looking into the $40-50 units at various parts stores, then saw another one in the same price range from Harbor Freight that seemed to have better reviews than most at the parts stores, and was in stock close to home Maddox Basic Fuel Injection Service Kit. I cant speak to the quality difference between the actual gauge on this vs others, a big part of the cost is the various adapters included and case it comes in. For the prostar, no adapters were needed.

You're certainly going to be exceeding the weight rating. But...2 miles and I would assume just 2 miles wouldn't be on major roads? 35mph or so? I wouldn't want to be slamming the brakes at 50+mph. Next concern as mentioned above is the ramp setup. Is the truck heavy enough to get good enough traction pulling the boat out (or keep it from being dragged into water when launching?)

@Mastercrafter Good thought....Battery could be questionable, and was a consideration. I can't remember how low it was dropping during cranking. Do you know what would be normal? But during the slow start and key on/off a couple times......when it did finally fire after a key on, it fired right up. Testing fuel pressure now. As you stated, from 0-60 it was fast for 1st time turning on. Then it dropped fairly rapidly to 40-45 then continued dropping slower till it stabilized at 30. That's probably enough to cause a slow start. As it needs so many rotations before is turns fuel pump back on. Turning switch back on it only went to about 55 then dropped quickly again to 45, then slowly on back down to 30. 55 should be enough i believe for a normal start. Not sure what it needs as a minimum. No doubt it's not holding pressure causing slow starts, and after a couple cranks an aging battery could be causing the extended slow starts. A couple more key off/on. When key on pump runs holding pressure at 55-57 as long as pump runs. When pump shuts off it drops right away to less than 50 and continues down.

Yes, the pressure regulator SHOULD maintain pressure while sitting. Turning on after having it off (key off) should run the fuel pump to re-pressurize the system. Even doing that its taking a while to re-pressurize. LOONNNGGG cranking. Last time, after a couple key off/key on it finally started right up. Once started, it runs perfect (hard acceleration and full throttle.) I'm trying to see if I can source the pressure regulator (probably a @ $50 part.) If not I'll try the inline check valve (also @ $50 part.) Either way its much better than $800 or so for a full fuel pump replacement.

2017 Prostar, already replaced fuel pump under warranty at about 480 hours, as the check valve wasn't maintaining pressure while sitting resulting in slow starts. Now a little over 800 hours it isn't holding pressure again (no longer under warranty so we'll have to put up the full cost of a new pump.) Has anyone tried to clean the check valve? Or can that item be replaced without replacing the complete fuel pump? Or, has anyone tried putting in an inline check valve?

Year round for me, as needed or on sale.

@Horton the same comments have been made for the past couple years. I can't imagine he hasn't read or heard about the comments already. It would be nice if he chilled a little. It is unfortunate that so many of the viewers of the broadcast have to mute the TV.

Your technique probably isn't an issue, the problem is the power of the new boat, and your driver finding the right rate of acceleration. Speed in the course vs what you want to free skiing doesn't have to be the same thing. Pros (open classes) men are at 36mph, and women at 34mph. Otherwise, as @buechsr said, the older boys through the 1st couple men classes are 36 also. At 35 y/o men go to 34mph. With the non-open classes, those are Max speed (meaning the highest speed you will get counted in scoring.) You don't have to even go all the way up to max speed, and can shorten the line at a lower speed if you want. If you can't run a full pass at that speed/15 off, you will start slower. So in course skiing, you will start at a speed you can run a pass, or even one step slower, then increase speed till at max speed (or whenever you want,) then start shortening the line. If you are free skiing, you can do whatever you want, and feel comfortable doing. If you do ski the course occasionally you may want to ski the speed you will be in the course.

I'm not too sure about that 1st graph.

Need a web designer thats not showing off how fancy they can make it.....just make it functional