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Windsurfnut

Baller
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Everything posted by Windsurfnut

  1. @alex38 yes I think a baseline column is a good idea in the doc. I'll add it
  2. Question for those using Pulse boots. I find that the chassis, where the T-nuts for mounting are molded into the footbed, that the raised edges of the mold, rectangular in shape really dig into my feet. The foam on the liners has compressed there and the edge transfers right through the liner and begins to hurt my feet. It almost seems that some sort of footbed should have been inserted between the chassis and the liner. Anyone else have this issue? Are mine perhaps missing a footbed? I'm going to try to fit one in there and see if it helps.
  3. I used a usb to serial adapter, the. Took another serial cable and cut it so my adapter was not compromised. The serial cable wires were soft and though to work with so cut up a cat 5 cable I had to make stiffer pigtails to just push into the puck connector. I’ve been trying to figure out what the connector is called so I can make a more appropriate connection. There is a wire hidden under the shrink wrap you will need. Just peel it back and you’ll see it. You also need to introduce voltage. If I recall it’s looking for 5v, the technical document suggests a range which I can’t recall. I just used a 12v car battery I had nearby.
  4. I also have not touched the ABC offset. Not enough skiing behind a ZO boat and I’m really just a hack skier. I thought My b2 setting was similar to a ZO b2 boat I ski behind once in awhile. This year I changed to A2 and my skiing has improved.
  5. I think a twin boat (same hull / prop / engine) should have the same ball settings providing the baselines are correct. I'm making an assumption that some of the ball settings we are seeing from similar boats are from baselines that are off and correcting for it. With my zbox setting of the default 8, it is very hard to hear the engine rev on my 2002 SN196. I also find that with the muffler, its a pretty quiet boat compared to some MC and Malibus. If I get a skier with a harder pull then you can hear it for sure ramp up. Not much to see on the RPM readout though, unlike ZO where you can really see the RPM numbers swing. I think that is just processor/pickup speed.
  6. I don't recall if I tried it while pulling a skier. But mine is at the same number while at rest on the lift. I think once in the water I'm at an even 500 as that's what seemed to be the neutral position and I mounted the zbox to achieve that. Not that I think it matters.
  7. + next to the letter is the "PLUS" setting in the later ZO versions. If I recall a slightly faster entrance speed and stronger reaction to pull.
  8. @dchristman great to know. I imagine mine was a fairly new version, as I had only bought the system 2 years ago. I had always wondered it if tweaking the baud rate would change system performance. I can put that curiosity to rest now!
  9. @dchristman do you have any knowledge of what puck configurations need to be to work or to be optimized? Does this change based on Master Module? I don't believe I changed anything, certainly not intentionally and my system works perfect now.
  10. Puck Software: https://www8.garmin.com/support/download_details.jsp?id=4065 v4.2 was the update that fixed the GPS week rollover (locking issues) but I found that 4.3/4.4 was even faster and my PP never surged again. Information on Pin out for RS232 Cable: https://static.garmin.com/pumac/GPS_18x_Tech_Specs.pdf *note that one of the wires is hidden under the rubber shrink wrap, the green one I think that you need to send data on.
  11. On our short entrance side, one with a 90 degree before the 55's, if PP is engaged it will speed up into the 55's then try to bleed off speed, then gas again after ball 1. Its brutal no matter what the settings. I just ensure I come into and around the 90 degree bend without the PP engaged, slow skier speed, then throttle up right after the 90 to engage PP and it settles properly.
  12. @slmskrs sounds like you have the older Garmin GPS firmware. There was a problem that arose last year regarding the week rollover for the calendar. It really messed with delayed locking and drop outs. The new firmware fixes that and improves the performance. If you are techy enough you can build your own upgrade cable (RS-232). I built one and did the update at that time and it corrected our dropouts completely as well as improved lock time and seemed to improve system performance. It’s available on garmin’s site or you can send to PP to update it for you.
  13. @WDKinley Yes proper hardware operation is key! Do your timing and testing in SG mode, not with the ZBOX engaged. You'll dial your times in more accurately and then turning on zbox will tighten them up. Also, your numbers with NO SKIER for timing testing are not that great. In NO SKIER mode I get .00 at all balls. Throw a skier behind the boat and you start to see times like you posted. If you are slow at the balls, like your timing indicates, I think it will show up even worse with a skier. Your entry is good, but you slow. I just re-read and you mentioned it was windy. That could have pushed those mid course times slow.
  14. @keithh2oskier interesting how close you are to the stock settings when using KX+ on your boat where many of us had to drop the ball 3 down considerably on the 300hp+ motors. BTW - in diagnostics there is a screen that has the zbox value and you can see it changing with the change of pitch or acceleration / deceleration of the boat. If I recall at rest mine showed a value of 500. So I tried to mount my zbox with it at resting value. I can see it swing up or down from there when the boat changes. Don't know what the values mean, but it shows that its doing "something".
  15. @kmenard get your gps puck updated if you haven’t. There was an issue with date rollover that messed with it. Plus the new software seems to perform much better.
  16. @Wish it seems common that with stock settings you'll get surging at ball 2, and generally the ball 3 setting needs to dropped from 50 down to the mid 30's. Otherwise the rest is just tweaking for perfection that is difficult to repeat anyways based on skier. Personally, being in the tech world I'm just generally interested in the systems operation and making it the best I can, because my skiing isn't great and I want no excuse for it!
  17. No, you need to highlight the ABC/123 setting and change it to SG. I guess perhaps going to 0 may have a similar result, but not sure. Going to SG ensures the system is set back to Stargazer Mode. Had a thought about using the Classic mode RPM adjust feature to check/adjust baselines. I may run a couple passes and see what it suggests and apply it to baselines. I had a couple abnormally slow times this morning, completely out of character from last weeks good times. No changes were made to PP, only change is water temp is up 5 degees.
  18. Here are my times on LIGHT: 0:-0.02 1:0.01 2:0.01 3:0.02 4:0.01 5:0.01 6:0.02 Still come in slightly hot, I'm also a LFF skier, so its my weak pull through gate to Bouy 1
  19. @keithh2oskier Makes sense with the 5.0. I bet you could also make LIGHT work with the KX+ setting, but sounds like you've got it well set up.
  20. Just finished putting in our course and ran a couple passes. Using LIGHT we came in at 00 and was +/- .01 on the odd ball. I'd chalk that up to skier not system. On light I believe my settings are 8/35/30. I can't complain about those results. I was so concerned about making NORMAL work last year because I was 175lbs and was in the NORMAL window. But my entrance times were always hot. Turns out switching to LIGHT brought all our times in check. I've also moved from B2 to A2 and finding it gives me a nicer feel behind the boat. Combined with LIGHT, its the best this boat has ever felt.
  21. How much do you and your ski partners weigh? Try skiing and adjusting on LIGHT. I bet it slows your entrance speed and hot Ball 1 time. My course isn't installed yet this year, so I can't do much testing, but looking back at my data, the few skiers that I have data with, are all 160-165ish, lower speed, longer line and LIGHT give much improved times over NORMAL.
  22. @slmskrs I was reading the graph opposite as well. Below the line I was interpreting as fast. I have a process to you with the spreadsheet, taking shots of the display with my phone and entering them later. I even have times calculated for skiers at 30, 31 and 32 mph for practice mode instead of the official speeds. I think what you are theorizing is correct, but adjustable. PP will pull you into the course hot, and the pullout should drop the speed. My understanding, is that the Ball 1 adjustment will then account for some of this throttle up, and this is why the stock settings are so low (8). The gassing from pull out through to ball 3 will be more agressive with the high BALL 1 settings. My next theory, would be that skiers light on the line, on the low side of the NORMAL weight range or longer line(less load?) will come in hotter. If I recall, the difference in entrance speed increases slightly with Skier Setting (F/L/N/XL). I'm 170lbs, 22'off normally, 32mph and if I run on Light versus NORMAL then the time on LIGHT are nearly perfect. On Normal I run in hot then the rest of the times are up and down trying to correct.
  23. Looks to me with your latest settings you are coming in a bit slow and getting gassed on the way to 1 through 3. I'd suggest raising the baseline back up a bit at a time, as well as lowering your ball 1 not raising it.
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