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Windsurfnut
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Everything posted by Windsurfnut
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@Wac On your buddies screen, in that box is it -XX, where XX is a number? Sounds like Classic mode and its suggesting -XX rpm to adjust recommendation
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@WAC I'm a bit surprised that your BALL 1 time is now 35 even after raising baselines. Curious, when it was closer to stock (8) how far off were your times. I'm surprised that after baseline adjust it needed but its also consistent with some of the reports on the spreadsheet.
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@slmskrs Adjusting my baselines wasn't to fool PP, it was just to get an accurate baseline for that speed. I found with AUTOCAL it wasn't consistent, so all I did was average the AUTOCAL results. When I would run AUTOCAL it wouldn't capture the same RPM. So I "helped it". For example for 32.3MPH I would get ranges from 3190 to 3220, so I just tweaked it to 3205. From there, the dialing for each ball was much easier, and far less of a deviation from the PP factory settings, aside from BALL 3 that had to drop a fair amount.
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@slmskrs to get to baselines (v9.2), go to AUTOCAL screen, Press MENU to move to the ">", press down and you'll be on the BASELINE screen. From there you can change the speed and corresponding baseline
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@nautique1228 For me, the zbox was a very inexpensive upgrade to a great boat. I'm not a great skier, aspiring, run 22' off consistently at 32mph and can run 28'off inconsistently. I ski behind a ZO equipped Prostar quite often and I was making my passes more consistently, so decide to go for a zbox and try to make my boat more like the Prostar. That, and it included the upgrade from SG to 3 event. Those 2 changes to my boat (3 event + zbox) changed the feel considerably. Dialing it further in has increased my confidence that I'm running solid times and not getting a timing advantage to a poorly calibrated system. So yes, I recommend the zbox.
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@Wac I doubt the TSC1 vs TSC2 hulls will differ much in settings. I'm still theorizing a lot on PP settings, but going to make the assumption that once you get baselines in check, that the trends in the settings you are seeing in 2002 GT40 based hulls will be reflected in the 2000 TSC1 hull. At least that's what I'm seeing trending in the sheet.
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I really wish that next gen software could have "suggested settings" once you make a run, sort of like the RPM suggest on classic. Or use zbox data to calibrate...
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Humm I can't recall now, I'm pretty sure it was in the AutoCal section that I got to the baseline menu. Won't be at my boat until the weekend to confirm. And as others suggested and I forgot to detail, zbox off while dialing in times. Then turn back on once you have good times and it will tighten it up even more. A smooth skiing candidate is great if you can find one. My wife and I just took turns skiing our easiest passes to dial it in on a quiet mid week day.
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Also on the ZBOX value, I never could get this right. If I increased the value and got it to sound more like a ZO boat and watch the RPMS fluctuate more, it was tougher for me to ski behind, and didn't feel like a ZO boat. If I drop it closer to stock settings it would sound less throttle up, have less fluctuation on rpms and feel more natural and closer to a ZO boat. I think that the Servo system doesn't have the reaction speed or processing speed to behave like a ZO boat, and trying to make it happen screws up the feel
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Hi Gordon, Great stuff there! Couple comments from my findings and tweaking. I really liked the idea of actual crew weight so you could dial +/- instead of just +. I think that's useful, and I did use that technique in my calibrating at one point. My ah ha moment came with baseline accuracy. The AUTOCAL is great, but it wasn't producing repeatable results for me. So I started to average AUTOCAL settings to get the average RPM for each speed, and this helped my calibration immensely. Once I did this, I found I was no longer chasing ball settings that were too far off factory settings. I would recalibrate and try again. But the high Ball3 setting you have is glaring. Half it as you suggest, to like 30/35 and repeat. Of you look at my googledocs sheet, no one is running remotely close to 60 or 80 like you have in your data. Most of us are around 30 +/-.
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Looks like this one (amazon canada link) https://www.amazon.ca/Monitor-Reverse-Waterproof-Support-Trailers/dp/B07Y9KWLJ4/ref=sr_1_20?dchild=1&keywords=2+camera+monitor&qid=1618424643&sr=8-20
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We use a IO lift converted to DD. Fortunately this IO lift had very tall supports, and uses 4x4 wood bunks giving great clearance from prop to crossbeam. Our boat (SN196) can clear the crossbeam while under power, if the driver failed to slow the boat in time. For bunk placement, the rear is as wide as possible to ensure that any side to side misalignment of the boat, the prop does not hit the bunks before the rub rail hits the rear post "guides". Note that we did not install additional guides, its only the lift frame posts that act as the guides if misaligned to the bunks. The front bunks are narrower, and provide a bit of pinch resistance to the vee in the hull to stop the boat from going too far forward. Therefore, we have needed no additional stops or guides installed for the DD boat. When lowering the lift, we lower it to the point the rear of the boat is floating free and power off slightly. Same when returning, come in at docking speed and it settles into the pinched vee with very slight power on. Been working like this for 6 years without any issue or mishaps.
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Ideal Battery Setup 90's Boats? Optima BlueTop?
Windsurfnut replied to Fastguy888's topic in Boat Talk
Blue Top Optima is a great ski boat battery. With the frequent starts/stops its a smart choice to use. I used one on my 88 prostar and 2002 SN196. Alternatively, on my speed boat, with a large stereo and a 502, I use a dual set up, and found the Exide Dual Purpose AGM to be one of the best performing for long stereo run times and start up. I run 2 of them, but the boat is not started and stopped a lot like a ski boat is. Long battery life is more important, and works well. -
Sent you a PM. That dealership has some very "interesting" sales tactics.
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PP responds by adding back RPM when the RPM drops with skier load. With Stargazer, the GPS assists with that process. Stargazer with the Zbox addon assists even further by introducing an accelerometer to detect the boat decelerating with load and releasing the load. Magnets are not needed as you now map the course using GPS to mark the entrance gates (depending on software version).
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Severed mine in my late teens. Not too long after repair I thought it would be a good idea to waterski again. Tore it and left it... I'm 45 now and it's never bothered me since. That finger is the first to get cold, and I can't make a fist without that finger tip still poking out. But otherwise its unnoticeable!
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@Mastercrafter Similar situation as both you and @Dacon62 I range from 170-180 lbs, 5'10", ski 32mph 22-28' off. Been on Vapor and Senate shapes, and the 67 Senate is the better ski for me. More support, less fatigue, no downside. Get that speed up, you'll find it easier to get across the course. I can't comment on PROBUILD, but I've skied Alloy, Graphite and Lithium versions. Currently on a Lithium Senate.
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Sure hope he manages to get back to Eden! We visit once a year as a family to get through our Canadian winter...although that too may be on pause this year...
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I’m sure any of the above mentioned brands/offerings work well. Personally I’ve always used the Captian Phab brand hull cleaner. I prefer the powder version and mix my own, stronger if needed. Spray on, let sit, wipe and rinse off. Repeat if necessary. This usually takes off all the water stains, but to bring back shine I follow up with a good polish with my buffer and wax. Sometimes if the oxidation is bad that year I’ll start with a compound and work through the polish and wax steps. While my boat is on a lift, the lake we are on is high in tannins and stain the boats relatively quickly. Hope this helps.
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I'm a 22-28' off 32 mph skier, and have owned 3 of the Senate constructions (Alloy, Graphite and Lithium). I'm currently on the Lithium, my wife took the Graphite. I can tell you there is a definite different feeling in all 3. Alloy was best for crap water conditions and most forgiving. Graphite was faster then Alloy, still was ok in crap water conditions. Lithium is a rocket and I feel it when conditions suck. I could definitely feel the way each reacted differently in acceleration, turns and in water conditions. It did take me some time to get comfortable on the Lithium, and it still surprises me once in a while, both in good and bad ways.
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@Jody_Seal is it generally the idea to adjust to get the rudder to have equal number of steering wheel turns in either direction, or make it so the rudder travels further in one direction to offset some of the effects of the prop rotation/walking? I have mine centered, equal number of steering wheel rotations to get to full lock, and ensure that it can't lock over if it turns too far in either direction. The boat naturally wants to turn one way better then the other at low speeds due to prop rotation/walk. I have also noticed, that with doing it this way, the point at which the cable transitions from pulling to pushing or vice versa, there is a little bit of play that shows up in the steering wheel and a unsettling of the steering. Running the tunable rudder tab fixes that up though, and improves in course tracking.
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My wife loves her Radar Senate Graphite. Lyric, same shape as the Senate is awesome as well. Maybe you were on one of the real entry level Radars. She skis 30-31MPH @ 15' off on an public lake ski course.
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This is an entertaining read on the spotter argument: https://dcparalegals.ca/EN/about/blawg/odd-law/waterskiing#:~:text=250(1)%20of%20the%20Criminal%20Code%20of%20Canada%3A,offence%20punishable%20on%20summary%20conviction.
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Balsam lake, Ontario!!!
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Our kids usedthe O'brien Jr Vortex - it was one of the only skis that had a RTP with a kids combo set. The wide profile certainly helped them get up on a slalom ski (note all 4 of my kids failed at dropping skis, and learned just to get up on one with). The downside of that model, is that with the double concave tunnel, they very quickly out performed that tunnel and now all 4 are on Radar TRA's ripping.