MDB1056

@kirkbauer- you’re getting advice from Terry Winter- one of the best on the planet! Always sound. Practice practice. Check out Train with Terry Winter for a whole host of coaching resources. Great stuff

@Horton - lobby to the right audience for change

Agree with @Dano - it’s just your hardest pass. There are as many or more folks skiing a course that do NOT ski tournaments than do. I have not skied a tournament in ages and have no desire to ever again, yet am in the course 10-15 sets a week .

@Blofeld"Swing" itself is the simple pendulum effect. As @ToddL stated, when utilized correctly this results in the correct path and an early line so things feel slower vs rushed. This is best illustrated over and over by watching pro's at 32-35 warm up passes practically yawning between buoys because they have so much time, where as we mortals often struggle mightily. Of course this is not the only difference but I'm sure you get the point

IMO - Temp and oil pressure should always be glanced at very often anytime the engine is running as these are the two most critical metrics. If a problem is occurring catching it early can make all the difference. Sensors, idiot lights, and alarms have a purpose but they generally warn at the danger zone. I want to know something is going on long before it gets to the danger zone.

Brake cleaner.

Let’s just all please agree that absent hard quants to back them up, individual statements are opinions at best . Allegations of “unsafe” leveled against a product of one of the industries top manufacturers should be very carefully considered before released, absent heavy qualifying first as opinion only.

While getting a bit off topic here................................I'm sure we can all agree that neither @Blofeld nor @Horton are the 100% definitive sources of information on this. The fact that some of the top skiers use tfactors clearly provides support to their quality. Statements alleging lack of safety should be tempered as clearly opinions at best and not as the result of data via testing or such. As a double boot tfactor user for years I can attest that they have released quickly and cleanly on those occasions that called for it, and I do not wear them "very loose". They either both stay on or both come off, and I've never had a situation where I questioned the result.

@75Tique that’s a lot fancier than mine! Yes they work great. One added benefit I have on my old one is an electric trolling motor that I can just slide off the front and use the foot pedal to maneuver when installing or removing the course. No need for a driver. Much easier for solo installs and extractions . Since powering snd steering from the front vs rear, also easier to adjust direction on the front where working.

@MitchellM as several have echoed - pontoon is best

@lpskier where is there?

Looks to simply be a convenience

I’m spoiled using a pontoon boat. Install off the front with the boat in reverse . Using a ski boat be VERY careful not to damage upholstery /carpet . It will be crowded . If using a ski boat be careful in the tightening process as a risk a DD boat can pull too hard. Outboards are generally better for this. You’ll get the routine down after a few tries so don’t be disappointed if it feels like a lot the first time or two . Portable courses are great!

The new HO Works skis are getting a lot of very positive reviews these days and are also worth a look/ride if you can .

Trick question?

best solution of course is to get a vest where they don't move. As far as re-arranging back into position it's just a pain . No magic

Consider a newer Connelly too. A later model GT, a GTR, or DV8 May also be to your liking . Very deep riding, narrower shape than others . Aggressive skis. The grip is amazing . Lots of great options for you with any of the top manufacturers.

67

@tjs1295- I’ve been in Connelly for many years and they do ride very deep, but do still require proper positioning over the ski to make it work correctly as @jjackkrash noted of riding deep but not losing speed .

@tjs1295 the main message here is stand over the ski. Too much of any position can be a problem, so yes too much to the front is not good. For most of us mere mortals we need to intentionally be more on the balls of our feet to correctly stand over the ski and offset our auto- response of falling back. Ideally if we’re positioned correctly over the ski we’re well balanced on our feet too ( no extremes) . We all agree you can’t ski well using only half of each foot. If you watch some of the most technically correct pros like Dane Mechler- you’ll see how well aligned he stays always, and standing over the ski. Look at him in the LFF thread clip posted here recently. If you get well aligned over your ski your weight will be more forward . I work on this constantly .

@disland - do you mean other than from D3?

Have never changed either of mine yet - in probably 6-7 years . Have only changed laces . Amazingly good bindings

Outstanding installment gentlemen. Thank you. It's these sessions that help crystallize the issues that we are (90%) subject to doing wrong daily. The requirement to benefiting from them then is daily repetition . For this piece, free skiing is the best way to drill. Step by step by step.

Did the engine immediately stop when the log was hit? Agree with above to first try another prop as easiest step 1. If the same, chance shaft or strut was slightly affected and not seen with naked eye.

@Mu13ski - your definition of "aggressive open water skiing" would be helpful here (line length, speed), as well as your height/weight