vtmecheng

2 hours ago, Hucklefin said:

Dang, nice thread. I was really considering submitting a video to Joel Howely, but not so sure now.

I’ve had good luck first messaging the prospective coach on Instagram or sending an email, if the person has a website. Motivated coaches often respond to those messages quickly and will know to look for the video.

On the plus side, my two direct connect sessions with Marcus Brown resulted in the fastest improvements that I have ever experienced. It is nice being able to try different coaches in order to find the one that fits you.

I have had a lot of hit and miss experiences with GiveGo. Last year I had some direct connect go uncoached but did get responses from Givego customer service that resulted in reassigning to new coaches a few times until one finally responded. This year I had much more success with the FastPass option, where any of the coaches can pick it up. It seems like there are some coaches listed on GiveGo who tend to not respond. It's definitely frustrating when a video just sits day after day (and set after set).

Addition: I had one session this year where it didn't let me give a tip and then deleted the session. I emailed GiveGo and they never responded to that one.

While winterizing our 2021 Prostar 6.0 (open cooling) I noticed a fair amount of mineral buildup in the cooling system. I pulled a couple of the cooling hoses and confirmed that a good layer has built up, with larger amounts at joints and transitions. This mineral buildup also completely clogged up the coolant crossover line. Does anyone here run something like the Star Brite product or cleaning vinegar through the engine cooling system for cleaning mineral or is this a leave it kind of situation? 

I like the new Vapor. I found it was really stiff for the first few sets but then broke in a bit. Just don’t be worried when you first try it. For me, the boot “encourages” good ankle flex in that I know instantly if I’m back. That took a bit for me to understand but I really like that now.

Sadly we pulled the course and boat today. Got cold quick here this year. I did get a practice PB for my last set, in a 4/3 wetsuit and 63 degree water, so ended on the highest note possible. Taking notes for next year and moving to snow skiing in a few months.

Thank you @ColeGiacopuzzi.  @skialex, I am using with the MOB so should be good. I asked because I like the new Vapor boot a lot but my super low instep foot sometimes slides forward if I let my ski get out in front of me off the second wake (I am working hard to keep over the ski more on my off-side pull but it's a work in progress). When this happens, the slide is just enough that my big toe can sometimes hurt from hitting the front/inside of the toe cap. I'm considering either trying the strap or adding a strap that attaches either to the back screw or the two side screws. That would keep the strap over my instep and prevent loss in a fall. Not sure it will work as intended but worth a shot. At this point in our season I'll probably fiddle over the winter, water is already 60F and extended forecast shows air in the mid-50s for the next week+.

@ColeGiacopuzzi, the intuition strap that @skialex shows earlier in this thread, is it supposed to go over the boot like that or around the liner inside of the boot? There were no instructions so I have not been using the strap.

Get some Kevlar thread. If you really can’t fins it anywhere, most craft and sowing stores will that or at least have an extra strong thread.

35 minutes ago, Slalom.Steve said:

@JimP By "release" I mean that your foot separates from the ski, whether that's via the binding releasing on a mechanical system or your foot releasing from a boot on a fixed/rubber system. It seems there may be a mixture of use in this term, but in the way I use it, the T-Factor is not a "non-releasable binding," though it will certainly be harder to trigger a release than a mechanical system.

Just for one data point, here is a video of my foot releasing from my T-Factor. Just to repost from earlier my specific setup: I use a Large T-Factor with a 10.5 US shoe size, which is right in D3's recommendation, but I also know a couple guys with 10-ish shoes that size down to a Medium, so their's may be less easy to release (though they may also not tighten as hard as I do, I'm not sure).

Ouch!!! My head and neck hurts just thinking about that crash.

1 hour ago, dave2ball said:

@Killer the anti roll it’s great I highly recommend it.  That ML that you posed is one of the best.    

I can think of one pro skier who may disagree. One of my ski partners got the ML Super Spectra and I can't say I'm super impressed. The ski protection tubing is a poor design. It is three separate sections of tubing and they use short sections of tubing from Y to handle. This causes the tubing to push up towards the handle and exposed sections of the spectra. Guy I ski with had to add tape at the Y to keep this from happening because his sharper edged ski was hitting the spectra. I'm also not a big fan of coating spectra with plastic. It's a strong material with good abrasion resistance on its own and I like that uncoated spectra is easy to inspect. I'm not sure how to properly inspect with the plastic coating.

I can't provide no help but (if this works) I am already thinking about how to add this to a 2021 Prostar along with a separate fuel gauge. It would be amazing to finally have a reliable gauge on that boat.

2 hours ago, jjackkrash said:

On the new Vapor boot (hybrid hardshell) measure to bottom.  Old Vapor boot, measure to stitches (not very bottom).  Is my understanding anyway.  

Yes. Doesn't look like I can edit that response now. In my post above, Vapor is the New Vapor (plastic bottom) and the Vector instructions apply to Vector and previous (softer) Vapor. Sorry for any confusion.

12 hours ago, coach3 said:

@Horton I may have misunderstood boot placement. On a Radar boot, I have measured from the furthest back part of the heel, which is about a 1/2" up from the ski. It is the furthest aft or back portion of the boot or heel bulge. I measure from that part of the boot back to the tail of the ski. 

Is that not correct? Using that I am on a 66 and at 29 9/16. If I move the tape forward to be almost underneath the heel right on the plate the measurement is much different. 

If I understand @ColeGiacopuzzi, it depends on the Radar boot. Vapor - measure from the bottom of the boot (easy). Vector - measure at the stitching on the back of the boot and not the rear most point (you can't easily get to the bottom most point with a tape measure on this boot). I recently switched from Vector to Vapor boot on the MOB system, giving me the opportunity to see how the two boots measure when in the same mounting position and I checked my ankle position. For me, the two boots at the same mounted ski position measured the same DFT and located my ankle at the same place on the ski.

On 9/27/2023 at 6:31 PM, Jordan said:

 

I know this doesn't intuitively make sense, but in teaching it this way for years I can tell you that it works.

First, your ski can only be "trapped against the rope" if your ski is fairly verticle.

This method fixes that.

Get you knees up to your chest inside your arms.

Get the ski well out of the water, with your toes on your front foot near the water's surface.

Rear foot tucked up near your butt.

Keep your arms straight, chin up.

When the pull comes on relax. 

As you feel the water push on the bottom of the ski, extend your legs and stand up. after you get used to this method, you can start standing up quicker, but for now do  it gradually.

The ski starting up higher, will immediately roll down flat on top of the surface, rather than plow, the tip will be nowhere near the rope.  The ski should be on a relatively low angle because your back foot is tucked up.

Here is a decent shot of JMac starting....

https://youtube.com/clip/UgkxOq4UofGCdmsa9vqN35MoneZTbsc68Buq?si=mgH82ZVwSGYo3VPh

 

The idea of pushing with your legs as the load comes on should be followed with extreme caution. Doing this method incorrectly can lead to torn hamstrings. This is how my dad tore two of the three in his front foot and ended his skiing for good (he was in his early 70s). His doctor said that water skiing starts is one of the most common way to do this and is caused by extending the front leg while getting pulled forward just too far. This was an crappy injury.

O’Neill makes tall sizes and the others don’t so I’m locked into one brand. Thank goodness O’Neill makes good stuff.

@h2oSkiJunkie is standup And honest, as always.

46 minutes ago, hacker said:

Even though it’s not exactly what you’re looking for, Cory Vaughan operates “Peace Love and Waterskiing” in Bumpass VA. Great place to get coaching!

I believe Corey has plans for people who are regulars and has lower pricing for sets without coaching. You should send him a message or give him a call. Easy to get a place on Lake Anna for personal/family water time and use Corey's for course sets, assuming you have the means.

https://www.peaceloveandwaterskiing.com/

2 hours ago, DW said:

Also, some like to start from rest, some like to be 'in gear' before they say hit it.  Good luck, the get up can be frustrating.

100%!!!! Some I ski with like to get pulled through the water a bit, feel the load, and get water moving around them. I have a real different position than most, but it works every time for me. I HATE being dragged along. Just get slack out of the rope and GO! I'll get up either way but it's instant when from rest, don't even get my face wet.

13 minutes ago, Wish said:

Mine is not InTow

I'll tuck my tail and say that I was wrong. The picture really looks like that rubber is blue and your wear is exactly what a lot of the blue bomb rubber ends up looking like. Sorry for the confusion.

13 minutes ago, Wish said:

Blue bomber??? 

The InTow handle that is blue was called the Blue Bomb handle.

2 minutes ago, dave2ball said:

@vtmecheng your correct about the question but it boils down to a cheaper handle has softer rubber quality may not be wear and will wear quicker and therefore cost more in the long run.    
your post says a lot.   

My handle, which I believe is the same as the one @Wish posted, cost me $200. That isn't a cheaper handle so I don't understand what you are getting at.

Just now, dave2ball said:

@vtmecheng you just answered the question. S line handle 135.00. ML handle 170.00. 35 dollar difference.  So in the long run which is the better deal?  

I didn't realize that I asked a question. What question did I answer?

Everyone is so touchy when it comes to a product wearing down fast or failing quickly.  I am fairly sure that I have the same handle as @Wish and it cost a lot more than $100. I use Amara gloves and mainly ski at 15 off 2-3 times per week. Mine is still okay after a year but the rubber has little tags from where it has started to separate just the smallest bit. All others in my ski group use the big name (I dare not say brands) that is the same price as mine and they ski as much or more than I do from 28 to 38 off. Those handles last multiple years with Kevlar gloves. I'm going to keep a close eye on mine and get a different brand once it gets to the point where @Wish is.

One thing I know from experience is don't mess with handle grip. I tried to push it on one a few years ago and injured my wrist from a loss of grip that I overlooked. That took 4 months, a brace, and lots of PT to recover from.

I’m fairly sure many will know the brand by the color. Mine is likely to start doing this within the next year. You could send it back to the company or get a new handle from a competitor. I’m not too happy about it considering the cost. It didn’t last as long as others I’ve seen at this price.