Jetsetr

Yes, has happened several times...as of right NOW the lake is no wake due to high water. Takes about 40 minutes to set the course (with enough help, and unfortunately I don’t do it enough to really get the time down) it’s quick (20 minutes) to pull it out.

@disland No sir, came from GM as a marine engine... 2 year warranty.

Purchased a brand new GM long block 5.7 from Michigan Motorz this spring, had it in 3 days...

Have the little brother to the Katana (Butterknife), and a Senate Alloy. Spring riding until I get into ski shape is always the Butterknife. Soooo easy to get up on, very forgiving and just fun. The Senate is a lot more work (but in a good way). Put newbie slalom skiers on the Butterknife as well. Always works great.

deleted

@vtmecheng is it STILL getting water in the cylinders, or has it stopped??? And you are correct, some water will still allow the engine to turn over until the piston comes to TDC...the it stops rotation due to the hydro lock, or it forces the water past the rings into the crankcase. With a Nitro engine the rods just say “screw it I want out” and they depart thru the side of the block, but that’s caused by the huge amount of fuel in liquid form in the cylinders not burning. @oldjeep yeah, I guess I can see that but who would do that?? I suppose there are people that don’t know or don’t care...

@MISkier I really doubt it...think about how far the water would have to travel, plus the exhaust risers are way above the waterline. Also, the intake and exhaust valves regulate the valve timing in regards to piston position. Even if the exhaust valves are open there’s no vacuum because the valves are open to the exhaust system and atmosphere. An engine is a air pump. Everything goes one way (unless it runs backwards like a two stroke can). If it was my engine, I would do a compression test, differential cylinder pressure test (leak down test), look REALLY hard at the raw water pump (condition) and exhaust manifolds (pressure test them) for cracks, then move onto cylinder heads (cracks or blown head gaskets, compression and diff cyl pressure test should discover those issues) and finally block for cracks. If there’s that much water getting in it’s a pretty big leak. I would look REALLY hard for signs of severe overheating at some point. Trueing up the manifolds does nothing. If there’s water still getting into all 8 cylinders, it’s a severe leak and should actually be easy to track down. Water in one or two (next door to each other) would lean towards a blown head gasket or cracked head. If it stopped leaking, compression is decent, has decent oil pressure I would run it for 5-10 hours and dump the oil and change the filter. Water in the oil will show up on the dipstick during this period as well. Oil that has water in it looks milky. Wouldn’t take too much stock in oil analysis at this point. @Jody_Seal knows way more about marine engines and probably seen more marine engine issues than I ever will...

Since this board goes a bit overboard on being anal retentive on some subjects, lets get the proper terminology for something that’s pretty easy: The water is in the cylinders, not the pistons. The cylinder is the place the piston thingies go up and down in... If an engine is truly hydro-locked it will NOT turn over. You can’t compress a liquid (actually you can but let’s not go there today). There’s a million places water can come from: Cracked head, blown head gaskets, cracked block, cracked exhaust manifolds, etc etc. Unless you towed the boat backwards at 30mph your not going to force enough water in thru a missing flapper. Long story short: unless the seller provided a written warranty you’re SOL. You didn’t do a complete inspection, and your looking for unwarranted compensation. It ABSOLUTELY SUCKS that someone would do this, but some people just don’t care. Very sorry for your troubles....

@klindy great tip...we don’t have enough room for 55’s when I splash the EZ Slalom...

Permits??? Or private water?

@KRoundy He never let go! Two handing @32 off was the rage back then too!

3 times! And it purrs like a kitten! I get that technology changes, look at cars...they will go 300K easily now. Before if you got 100K without the body falling off/engine smoking like a old 6-71 Detroit you bragged about it. But, sometimes simple is good. This is my GF’s car (so is the Vette behind) 1475 REAR wheel horsepower, all aluminum 572, 10-71 EFI. You turn the key and it cold starts perfect. It’s a low 7 second street car...tune it with a laptop. And it’s totally drivable on the street. Not like we still have to do to start the race motors with the fuel bottle at the injector...

@BraceMaker And THATS why I like a carb...

??? Sensor issue falls into the the electric gremlin/issue category. It SHOULD have thrown a code. Chasing electric issues can be like herding cats...

deleted

My skiing matches my Ford 420 combo tractor (on a good day). Wish I could step up to minivan skiing...someday....someday....

I modified my Brendella pole mount in a similar way...after I made the new baseplate (that bolted to a guide skeg) I made backing plates for the out side of the stringers, used stainless hardware with Nylocks. Don’t need to double bolt with Nylocks but it would be an option. I didn’t powder coat but I like the idea, and would do it next time. Heavy primer and Rustoleum paint. Still looks good. Brendella also uses a saddle clamp thru a lateral rib to the stringers to tie in the pole just below the floor boards.

@UWSkier I’ve been in the same position! Good thing the CEO skis with me! Common sense has to rule the day...unfortunately it’s not very common anymore ?

Think you be surprised at the rates from Progressive...have my boats and bikes with them, very reasonable. But that being said I will look at the two mentioned by @Kelvin as well. Knowledge is Power...

If your need to be jacking on your phone while driving, you’re not going to drive for me. End of discussion. Fortunately my drivers don’t have the need to be in constant communication. We are not that important. Don’t care what they do when we take a break or resting between tugs. I have my phone onboard for emergencies, calls from the COB or CEO, or as needed for important calls. If I get one of those calls when I’m driving it can wait until we drop and take a quick break.

Ok folks: let’s look at this a bit more analytically. The engine needs “X” amount of fuel pressure to run correctly. If it was a injector the main line fuel pressure would remain constant and just that one cylinder would drop. 1 it doesn’t do it all the time, so rule out fuel filters. 2 injector cleaner will never hurt, but in this case it’s not the fix... 3 it’s more than likely a electric issue/gremlin. Fuel pump, fuel pump relays or possibly a injector (but really doubt it), bad ground on any of the above as well, intermittent positive side issue, ignition switch, ANYTHING that puts power to the pump could be the problem. It might be a really easy fix, it might be a nightmare. THIS is why I like carbs....

@The_MS That’s in a MN hot tub...right???? ???That’s pretty warm for MN. Surface @ 43-48 depending on how big the lake is in SE WI. Big Pond is 41.

X3 on the Boost... Reality Check: it Spring, you haven’t skied all winter and you need to get back up to speed physically and mentally. The bagginess of a Boost REALLY isn’t going to mess up your skiing YET....unless your first ski of the year is a 41 off... Be glad you’re on the water toasty warm and DRY. Se WI: surface water temp 43, 2 feet down 36 degrees. just say’n...

@fsts2k I’m over in Twin Lakes. Have a portable course available. We ski Lily. Slow the boat down. Always looking for ski partners. Have my new to me Malibu Eshelon, and my trusty Brendella. More than welcome to try my Senate Alloy. Would highly recommend Train with Terry Winter for tips and technique. Much more important than a new ski right now.

My 89 is original other than the observers seat cushion...what pics would you like?