ReallyGottaSki

kewl, very effective!

reminds me of a friends 74-75ish nautique decades back, it had these bulbous fiberglass covers over the exhaust ports, but were fastened to the transom, These did a similar function, open at bottom and very effective. Each had a 1/4" vent hole on top that shot water up and out about 15-20' feet upon startup, when the mufflers emptied forcibly.

Since your outlets are also below waterline when not moving, Consider drilling a small 1/8-3/16" vent on top of the elbow, this way after a hot shutdown the exhaust doesn't contract and suck only water back in, this would permit some air to fill voids in the muffler and manifolds, and not be all water, for multiple benefits regarding longevity and hydrolock. There has to be a good reason thru hulls have been waterline for a hundred years, else have auxiliary venting . I suspect to keep the water in the mufflers consistently at the waterline, and not creep up the riser

a strip of cheap 'chinesium seadeck' EVA nonslip under that hard fiberglass platform could further attenuate the exhaust noise reverberating between the waterline and platform, thus even less sound may propagate outward.

Regarding prop one can usually best stay the same, just let the engine breath and spin and make power. Metalugrgically a std small block bottom end is good for 5500 rpm all day, with maybe premium rod bolts for insurance if it feels better to do something to it. building a stroker is usually the delineation point for addressing prop, higher available torque at all rpms and to keep piston speeds in check, benefit from more bite.

I believe it.

WhenI was 16,went out the front and speared the wake hands/head first, needed to pull both forearms out of the soft bottom in order to float up.

That was 4' of water

I understand immitation is finest form of flattery, but geezus

They even call the vdrive a masterstar :/

Volvo appears to make marine 4cy 320hp turbodiesel, that is only 600# , with the gearbox...

seems like not using gasoline could be advantageous option in europe, especially for a club tug

the listed available reduction gears are too steep, it would best have a 1:1, but if solved, a 1 1/8 shaft and a 13x16 prop, could have similar max speed at 3600rpm as a 1:1 gas boat at 4800

Graphs show 200hp avail at 2000rpm, very close to a stout LS at 3000rpm, which could be 220ish or so.

I hope they do well with their product

Heh, global ski boat domination is like saying jumbo shrimp.

Cool

Why are it's lines and attitude so familiar?

Dunphy x55?

@75Tique , awesomesauce

@75Tique

Yep

@ALPJr , close!

Webster MA

Compared to other years...Not too shabby

@Jody_Seal

@Skierx ,

I read the smart rails install instructions, it directed to grind away the gel to the mat, if exceeding 30 knots.

heh, i take it you said damn the torpedoes, and both exceed 30 and didn't grind your gel?

@skiinxs thank you for your valuable insight!

Ugh, It always listed starboard, even at rest still with noone aboard! This vintage is not cavity foam filled so its not wet and heavy, so its not water weight inbalance

Upon reinstalling engine, i nudged it over to port an 1/8" and it helped some but its not enough.

This winter i'll nudge it over another eighth if the log permits it, but will have to rebed the strut to go that far.

I recently put 25# under the passenger seat to assist (my gf is 105#) and its barely enough to keep it flat if she sits way over. I'm not all that heavy at 170

Our tinkering and hobbying is intriguing but must stay aware there are lives entrusted to us when out there.

So its great to have access to your history and knowledge with the type. much obliged

@Jetsetr Im sure there are interpretations but one scenario is the wetted surface lets go one one side of the boat, and the new wetted surface changes to 1/2 the hull bottom and one side of the boat. The waterline is now in at the gunwale its listing to. One can be going straight when this occurs, and all this while the rudder is ineffective, and throttling back is the only recourse, if you're still in the boat. After slowing the boat settles back in and acts like nothing happened afterward leaving you quite perplexed

Swapping ends is a different scenario, a low bow get pushed out of the thrust centerline first in a trough of a diagonal wave, and when spoons into next diagonal wave, the forces exceed the rudder's holding power and boat swaps ends in an instant.

@skiinxs Thank you!

I can report it does currently have just a little porpoise occurring as it is.when above 44 mph. and for now its just a new novelty to exceed 40 occasionally when conditions permit but not with passengers.

Yes, da boom! I'm not a frequent footer at all anymore, and would only foot 36-37 mph anyway. I can assure the boom is primarily for instructional skiing

However given your report, that coincides with others i've heard, if someone wanted to foot 40+ on my boat, i'll now more solidly refuse.

Now most curiously, this IS a G-boat, '82. It has not YET acted irregular in 25 years i've had it.

I grew up with a non-G '83, that would rudder stall if you sneezed too hard at 26 mph and had some wind chop.

I've been in a sn2001 when it swapped ends at 40+ and it was violent, so i certainly heed your warning!

Given it s a G boat, it may be best i call it a win and put away the turd polish.

If i build a plate over the winter, it will be set very neutral

I built the engine for very strong slalom rpms , and it delivers, and aware its the wrong hull for speed.

Sorry for the detour men!

@Skierx, thank you for that picture so promptly!

Its must have caused pause to apply adhesive to a sweet ride, but results are results!

oh, I see how width between wheelwells is a consideration and dictated the rail's location

@DW, yes indeed! the reduced poundage came from 33# from Iron to Aluminum intake, 2x20# from heads (trick flow 170s/58 cc chamber), Iron PCM pyramid manifolds to Commander SS for 2x27#, and lastly replaced Iron PCM front cover to Aluminum, 15# removed, requiring an Indmar-style Johnson crank drive pump instead of the sherwood, but, bonus was much more water flow.

so its much having like one less person in the boat, all the time

I gave it new bearings, seals, roller chain, scorpion rockers and appropriately sized pushrods, etc, and a 214/224 @.050 cam/lifters.

It scoots! and the main mission to lighten the powertrain was very effective

Since we're doing pictures...

@Skierx cool solution! I also run the oj 4-force on my 82 supreme and they do throw quite the frothy mess.

I'll be adding a plate of some sort over the winter to knock some turbulence down and add very mild lift with turnbuckle adjustment much like the sanger hardware.

Seeing our hulls parallel some lineage, I am very interested in seeing your spray rail solution in more detail!

I took 141# out of the engine this year with good results and excited to keep the tinkering going.

Well, in just 5 minutes i found this...

150's and 175's last forever the 200/225's historically have the issues.

but even 100hp on that boat would do what you need it to with style

I concur with @Clydesdale , can stay with a small boat for a bit more

Any old givaway stripped out shitliner trihull with 70-80hp and the right prop and a casad pylon, would let him attack the wake early in his skiing years until he has the mass and technique to mash any inboard's wake/hump/ramp whatever and make in inconsequential in a few seasons

Like many, my experience was a clapped out '69 nautique club boat that at 13, i would reenter and land out past the whitewater, then change edges. Had no choice but to be stacked before stacked was cool, else instant feedback with a 'feet to face'.