skibug

I guess you can call that one Da"noodle"

Easy fix, two part epoxy. heat it a little bit and let it flow into all the gaps, Use a small C-clamp and some wood to squeeze the top plate down. You might want to remove the fin block to give yourself some working surface.

Yup

SKIdim.com

@NorthIdahoLPO I have been on FM Evo single boot with RTP for 11 years and I do believe they are as safe as, or safer, than anything out there. I have had one ankle injury in the last 11 years and no binding would have saved me from it, IMHO. The injury occurred when I hit a buoy and the ski skipped out then re-engaged the water sideways and jammed me down into the ski (i.e. compression style), no bindings release in this scenario. I like the fact that the cuff comes off the hardshell so the whole hardshell isn't flailing around on your foot just waiting to hammer your other leg, like a lot of people experience with the Silveretta release.

I think I know....actually I know I know, but I can't say :# :#

Raise tournament entry fees to cover the cost of the promo teams. Most who participate in this sport can afford it. It is a sport based on disposable income.

I think we will all be interested on how this turns out.

@Broussard hard to say. I would have to put my hands and eyes on it to say for sure. Sometimes trying to save the material is futile and it is just easier to remove the lose damaged material and fill the area. If you fill the area, you have more options for the repair. I have used epoxy to fill the hole and it works fine; but, there are some other repair products that work just as well. JB weld makes a product called waterweld and another similar product for fiberglass repair that come in the form of a dough stick that you lop off the amount to be used, kneed it with your fingers to get to activate, then apply and shape in the damaged area. It is also sand-able. Just do a google search and you will find it sold at any home improvement store or Walmart.

That's an easy fix. Two part epoxy (JB weld clear). Two options depending on the tools you have or can borrow. Mix the epoxy and push it into the damaged area as thorough and deep as possible, then clamp it down and let it bond. Or, break off the loose piece, use a dremel tool to smooth out the jagged edges, and fill the hole with epoxy. You will probably need to set the ski up so the damaged area is level to the working surface and create a small dam coming off the top plate of the ski to keep the epoxy in the damaged area. It is OK if the epoxy is a little higher than the side wall of the ski that is being repaired, the epoxy is sand-able.

@ErikBerghiller Kudos to your innovation and commitment to the sport. I think your invention opens up the sport to a ton of big water skiers and that is what the sport needs. This may have the single most impact on growing the sport than we have seen in a long time. I remember, as a kid free skiing on a public lake, joking with my ski friends about how cool it would be if you could just make buoys "pop up" as you were skiing so you could turn them. This is that!!! So cool!!

Resale Red or bullet proof blue.......if you are going to unload as a promo.

Less of a wrestling match and more of a dance???

There is a benefit to sinking handles though....the drag the weeds.

I have a Masterline and US Gear handles and the Masterline is heavier and it doesn't float.

FWIW....I agree 100% with everything that @bishop8950 is describing. I will add the analogy that driving the boat is also very similar to skiing in respect to ability, feel, seat time, and talent. The reality is everyone can't run 39 off no matter how much they practice or get coached etc. Your ability and natural feel/talent limits you at some point; same is true for driving. With that said, you should always strive to do better, take feedback, and try to apply that information the best you can.

@GMC only rode the ski once; but, my ski buddy (a 38 off skier @ 34 mph) has been using them for a long time after originally setting it up with the short and deep settings. He came off the Rev6 where he was also running the long and shallow numbers. He like the Revolution better than the Rev6.

Swiss Ski School in Claremont

I have repaired about a dozen or so inserts on Goodes in this manner. Another issue I have run into is when the screw threads strip out. If the insert is still secure, I just overtap the hole to a 10-32 (they are 8-32 from the factory).

You can use a little 2 part epoxy. Take the insert back out and fill the hole about 1/2 way with the epoxy, dab some on the threads that screw into the ski, and screw the insert back in before the epoxy sets up.

6.948 (tips), 2.475, .716 (flat), 8.5 or 9

TRX suspension training, battle ropes, body weight movements, and cardio.

i use a corn blade to shave my callouses down...it works great. Also, I can get the kevlar gloves for about $2.50 a pair so the Ansell Hyflex would have to last 3-4 times as long.

I have had 3 meniscus tears (to date) dating back to 2001. Each of them have been surgically repaired/trimmed. Still skiing strong today. Just get a good orthopedic surgeon that has an affinity for athletes and you will be good. A lot of times your can read their bios on whatever medical provider site they are affiliated with and see their history of education, clinical study, and residencies. Find one that has dealt with a sports team or organization.

We have a 2015. The rudder comes from the factory with material removed from the trailing edge of the rudder on the starboard side. They say this is supposed to be the optimum shape based on testing and "tournament" driver's input. I disagree. In fact, on ours it was too much and we wound up grinding the opposite side of the rudder to get rid of some of the rudder torque. We also moved the steering connection to the inside hole on the tiller arm of the rudder. This helped out in our situation and I know others have made this move as well. Also, weighting the boat is very, very important to get it to handle correctly. We did a lot of experimenting with weight to get it dialed in. One thing we realized is that weighting the boat to make it level needs to be done no further forward than the passenger seat; and in fact, it works better if you use bag weight on the floor, up against the gunnel (not under the seat). I think this has to do with the location of the tracking fins. If you look at where they are located versus the SN200, the MC fins are much further toward the stern. I have found that it handles best when there is just a slight list to the port side when setting still in the water.