skibug

It counts.

There is a cross reference for the part number, look here: https://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com/

Flange goes up, slot goes down. Speculation is the slot acts as a relief for displacing the material, then potentially spreads, ever so slightly, when screw is inserted.

Not even close.....TEAK!!!

@Bdecker , does it say 41-42 on the inside of the soul? I am a size 9.5 - 10 shoe so I am guessing it is the right size. Let me know what you want for it. @BraceMaker I have multiple cuffs, thanks.

@mmosley899 thanks for the offer but i need 41-42 shell

@BraceMaker I would need a 41-42 (or 40-42) USD classic throne lower shell, right foot forward; I use a RTP so I only need front. I would take the cuff too as I know how to modify it to make it work for the EVO style binding. If you have one or two you want to sell PM me. If FM would respond to my email or I had a phone number to call them I would buy the shell from them.

@ShaunT Do you think they would sell binding parts? I just need a lower shell as mine has cracked beyond repair. I have been on FM Evos for 11 years; but, if I can't get a replacement shell, real soon, I will have to consider changing binding brands and I don't really want to have to do that. I can build out my own full binding if I just get the lower shell.

Was on their website and all the binding pages are blank. Emailed 2 days ago and no response. Are they going under?

Aquaseal. I have also successfully used super glue on a small slice-type damage.

@Horton what was the change. Not specifically the numbers; but the direction of the move? Depth, Length, DFT, etc.?

Anyone can get into a perfectly stacked position on dry land in a static situation. The key is being able to get there through the dynamic transition at the end of the turn; and then hold it for the correct amount of time with the correct amount of load. This cannot be simulated; you need to be on the end of the rope, behind the boat.

I should have used the sarcasm button

You shouldn't be looking in the mirror when your are driving!!

Update on fin settings. 67" Goode XTR, RFF Fluid Motion Evo with RTP. Binding at 29 5/16 and wing at 7 degrees. About 20 sets into the season, started with the Whisper Fin. I am migrating further away from the tail based on my familiarity with the what the ski is doing and muscle memory returning after the off season (you'll have to read my previous post for how we landed on the following set up.) Original set up: L=5.745(tips) D=2.530 DFT=1.74(flat/head) Adjusted Today (L and D stayed the same): New DFT=1.75(flat/head) I think this is a result of getting back my balance point on the ski and remembering where to stand and when I can push on it.

Carbon Fiber

I may have to order another one so when I go test skis I don't have to take the one I have out of my primary ski. B)

Pick out a ski from your quiver that you feel would have the biggest pay off if you could only get the turns to be more even, especially through the finish of the turn. Just MHO.

To clarify... Powerful=making up for lack of technique with strength (not optimum or recommended) Dynamic=a nice way to say my technique would benefit if I had a more "quiet" upper body Bludgeoning=very accurate!! And, not conducive to physical health.

Better "tracking" does not equal better pull. Tracking is not a good measure of how a boat drives.

@JAS might be hard to gauge as these were my first 8 sets of the season. Rather than putting a percentage on it, I would rather explain it in words. I think the "feeling" of less work can be directly correlated to the ski moving through the turn, while continuing to create angle, with less tip pressure, and less tendency to stall at the finish. This translates to more consistent speed through the apex of the turn, earlier acceleration off the ball, and angle into the 1st wake. So, instead of having to "horse" the ski to get going out of the ball, it already is, you just need to be ready to go.

I am on a 67" and I ski RFF. I take all of my measurements with Starret dial calipers. I mention this because it effects the dimension you get for DFT as @SkiJay and I found out. He had digital calipers (not sure what brand) and the thickness of the jaws laid on the bottom of the ski when taking the DFT measurement hit at different spots, hence the discrepancy. There was a .020 difference between mine and his. I think it may also have to do with the DFT being so far away from the tail. All that said, the numbers will get you close enough to tune. I have two different sets of numbers. The first set of numbers is where we landed after 7 sets on the WhisperFin (WF) after 4 or 5 tweaks. There was only one binding tweak and it was to get closer to stock as I was 29.375" and now I am at 29.3125" (Stock is 29.0625"). The second set of numbers actually required a small modification to the WF exclusively because of the ski being a Goode. Apparently they are the only skis with a fin slot that is somewhat smaller than other brands. It was a simple and mundane fix. Will post the before and after pics for show and tell. The mod allowed us to get the WF closer to the tail for set #8. All sets were were taken with the Goode LARGE wing, 7 degrees at SkiJay's suggestion. He said if you have to use the small wing, go 9 degrees. This 1st set of numbers were very close and for a skier with better, more quiet, technique they should be a good starting point. So much so that if I hadn't of rode the 2nd set of numbers I would have tuned around these: L=5.746(tips) D=2.534 DFT=1.79(flat/head) If you have a tendency to move around a bit more this second set of numbers may be where you want to start. I am not exactly sure why they worked better for me, they just did. Pulling the fin back really evened out the turn on each side. I would say that these numbers gave me a little more positive feedback to my input and didn't feel as "sensitive" to my extra movements. The trade off was it "felt" like a little more work; but, I am OK with that if I can get both sides to feel as equal as possible. L=5.745(tips) D=2.530 DFT=1.74(flat/head) And for the mods to be able to pull the WF this far back, see pics. You have to trim off the little nub.

@SkiJay installed my WhisperFin last Wednesday. I have 8 sets on it, probably 4 to 5 tweaks between those sets. SkiJay was in the boat for 6 of the sets listening to my feedback and providing the suggested tweaks. All I can say is it made the Goode XTR better. It finished the turn easier, kept the tip down, and accelerated off the ball quicker. It also made my on-side (the more problematic of my turns) more fluid, keeping the ski moving under the rope without any additional tip pressure, so it never stalled at the end of the turn. The off-side has always been automatic with this ski; but, the down side of that is/was a propensity to get too much tip pressure at the finish of the turn. This fin seems to relieve that pressure created at the very finish of the turn, even if you create your own issues through poor body position (or lack of technique). The on-side and off-side became more symmetrical and overall it seemed like less work to get side to side.

Priced to sell one year old vest, Non-negotiable. I sell my one year old vest every year because I buy a new one every year. Here is my listing on SIA; but, for a baller I will reduce the price by $10. PM me if interested. http://www.ski-it-again.com/php/skiitagain.php?endless=summer&topic=Search&category=Ski_Vest&postid=50037

Less than an hour to get from Spartanburg to Mystic Waters at Lake Luke (Owned by Lynne Carnes and operated by Austin Abel).