GMC

My accident was 3/4.

@wtrskior, we are in the same boat. You are the mirror image of me... I'm 38, left-handed, RFF, and dislocated my right shoulder on 3/4. I don't have any fracture of the humeral head but also have little/no feeling in my deltoid and occasional tingly fingers. My doctor described the same thing that @Klundell‌ mentioned and has prescribed an MRI arthrogram to check for a SLAP tear, he said that if it's bad we should fix it before starting PT as a slalom reach is a vulnerable position. He also said I could ditch the sling in "controlled situations" (home, office, etc) as long as I kept my hands and arms in front of me. After a couple days of that, it feels really loose so I think I'm putting the sling back on. I'm icing it as much as possible. Best of luck in your recovery, keep us posted. I'm not in a hurry as there is 2 feet of snow and 2 feet of ice that isn't leaving any time soon. Hopefully ready to go in early May.

My first thought is that it sounds a lot like a D3 Fusion? Anyone skied both? I'm watching the impressions of this ski with some level of interest...

There are buoys up but I wouldn't call it a course. Not sure who puts them in these days.

Spartanski, I live down the street on Lake Oakland. Good news/bad news about our area: We are equidistant to lots of ski sites in the area but none are really close. Everything is an hour away give or take a few minutes. Sites that host tournaments are listed on the website mentioned above and there may be a couple more. Not sure about membership openings though.

Get a G10 plate from @teammalibu, mount your binding hardware to that plate, then use Dual-Loc to attach the plate to the ski. I can't remember how much Dual-Loc I used last year but it was at least 2 full-length strips of 250/400. The Reflex is the easy part - the back boot (if it isn't a toe loop) can be challenging...

We might want to get used to that 6L. 5.7 might not be made forever.

"the Quattro is definitely the ski that I hope to riding on at the beginning of next season." Me too... if it comes out in time and a few guys down south get it sorted out. Not sure I want to guinea pig what is likely to be a $2200 ski! I think it's either that or the MidRide for next year. Please keep us updated!

Jody - good enough for me. Those algos do exist but they are overkill for slalom speed control so I didn't think ZO actually used something like that. And don't underestimate your gear head knowledge!! What I do know is that I like C1 at 36 and B1 at 34. Back to figuring out which ski I want to ride.

For what it's worth I have a few comments to add. There are some smart guys on here and I'm not sure I'm one of them! Jody seems to have the most insight on how the ZO system is truly designed so he can probably answer the question I will ultimately ask. dn - I think you're spot on with points 1 & 2 and I can't explain #3. I can make sense of ABC123 to myself in my head but I try not to confuse anyone else with my explanations. I may be about to as I'm thinking out loud here... Maybe A, B, and C control setpoint overshoot differently as well? As you indicated, to get out the gates at an average of 34.2 and the skier pulls the boat down to X mph less than that for Y seconds you have to make up for that with excess speed for corresponding time. The integral of speed error over the course has to equal close to zero to get 16.95. So maybe A overshoots a lot for a short amount of time and C overshoots a little for a long time? I'm picturing a sine wave in my head where set speed is the X and speed error is the Y. The area above has to equal the area below at the exit gates. Then there is the question of ramp rates and delays but I don't want to go there. That is a large part of ABC123 and I don't have enough info to say. All the talk is about throttle response, which is governed by the physics of the throttle blade moving, allowing more air into the intake, and then the engine injesting that additional air. This is relatively slow. The blade moves instantly with ETC, but the size of the throttle body, the manifold volume, pressure difference across the throttle body, and lots of other physical attributes all play a role. What about spark and fuel? Does ZO add power to the system just by opening the throttle or does it move those too? If you're not at the knock limit, you can add power really quickly by adding spark (the fastest ECM loop rates I've seen are in the order of 5 msec). So Jody, is ZO a fully integrated power controller that manipulates spark and fuel in addition to air or does it just move the blade to let in more air like PP did? If that's the case, a video of the tach through the course might not be the whole story - and is probably filtered heavily anyway.

I hope you get some replies as the Mid intrigues me as well.

John - I have a couple different types of inserts in my ski tool kit. If you're skiing Lyon tomorrow you're welcome to peruse and take what you need. I think it's safe to assume I'm out of that business.Â

thanimal - upon a second review I guess you're right. The only precaution against using the SJ355x is to avoid UV exposure, which is not a problem between a binding plate and a ski. For both SJ355x (the black) and the SJ356x (the clear), 3M says: Closure strength should not be affected after prolonged exposure to water or humidity. Once bonded to the substrate the adhesive has excellent resistance to moisture under typical use conditions. I couldn't find the 3M info on SJ354x. I guess I just made myself a bit of a guinea pig but I think I'll be fine. Either way, I agree that the foam may provide some tolerance to ski flexing. Ugh. My least favorite part about skiing a Goode (again). On the bright side, I won't have to worry about my rear binding rotating any more - it's not going anywhere.

Interesting comments all.  I just just set up a 9900 last night with 250 and 400, both clear (Reflex/Wiley intended to be the release, not the tape). After reading the 3M literature it seemed like the clear for both sides was the obvious choice as it is made for indoor/outdoor use and the black is not. Scoke probably nailed it with the theory that the ski flexing makes the adhesive wear prematurely - the black has foam backing, right? That would probably allow the ski to flex without disturbing the adhesive. Those southern guys that ski 11 months out of the year figure things out faster than the rest of us. :) The main thing I took out of the 3M literature was that the longer the strip, the more likely it is to have mating problems. Short strips are better than one long one - to a certain extent as clemsondave noted. I think the point is to avoid curvature in the tape, thus I made separate strips for the front and rear bindings and tried to keep them straight relative to one another. I played around with small pieces of each to see if relative orientation one piece to the other made a difference - they were the strongest when they were mated in parallel. I also tried to line up strips next to each other so that the pattern of "mushrooms" was continuous - especially with the 250. I have some cell-phone quality pics I could post if requested. Roger's suggestion of 2-sided tape makes a whole lot more sense. I may have to try that next time.Â

Thanks for the replies guys. Scott - I found the 3M product guides for Dual-Loc online today and it seems we commit a couple "sins"... The most notable of which is that long strips of Dual-Loc are known to 3M to have connectivity issues. They recommend pieces, not strips. Just FYI. Given that I have a conventional release system, I will use your guidelines as a minimum so the Reflex and rubber do their jobs without the Dual-Loc thinking about coming apart. Why don't you like the 250/400 combo?Â

I'm going to call up Goode in the AM to order a ski or two for demo. How is everyone mounting a Reflex/Wiley combo for demo purposes? I will not be buying a PowerPlate and I have a blank teammalibu G10 plate that will be the long-term solution but for short term? Just coating the bottom of each with Dual-Loc? How much and what kind (250/400)? I figure at least a strip down each side, maybe two, and some additional underneath the release mechanism. This much I know - I went overkill with my FM/9800 combo. I coated the entire ski and FM plate with 250/400 and I had to destroy the plate to get it off. Don't want to do that again.

Scot - they still make the Response LX, a couple clubs up here just got 2010s. The 196 was a much greater loss to boat selection though /vanillaforum/js/tinymce/jscripts/tiny_mce/plugins/emotions/images/smiley-laughing.gifÂ

Boody - how did the boat search end up? I am curious if you ended up having a boat shipped. I am in MI and have a couple parties in Oregon interested in my boat. Thanks, I had to dig deep to find this one!!

If I used it to ski, I would do the ZO upgrade. The lake I live on is not really an option for course skiing and I ski at a private site now. Time to sell it and get a booze cruiser. Sorry for the threadjack Richard!ÂÂ

2005 196 LE. 136 hours. http://www.ski-it-again.com/php/skiitagain.php?topic=Search&postid=SIA11258

If they'd rather buy a Nautique I know someone selling one of those as well...ÂÂ

I use a 12" MasterLine radius, standard diameter. I really like the handle but I go through 2+ a year, wearing them down to the metal on the bar. ProGear gloves (Amara), no underliners. Thinking about working an In-tow handle into the mix this year.

No. I live on a lake that is totally unskiable. It sits in the lift all the time while I drive across town to ski. I put 6-8 hours on it each of the last two years - just early season drysuit skiing and then summertime booze cruising.ÂÂ

Good point! I haven't officially put mine on the market yet but it's my intent to sell it this spring.

Hey MS I have an 05 Nautique I want to sell... What's a "good deal"?ÂÂ