JAG

thanks everyone. I use a standard slalom grip on start up. It seems to pull me forward out of the water and then I can recover. But that initial out the front while breaking the surface is what I'm trying to figure out. Without the vest, I can get up almost in my sleep. I have the straps looser but they still allow the vest to work when I'm up, skiing and fully extend my arms. I did have the straps tighter a few weeks before and really liked the way it makes the vest work....sooner. I'll work some more this weekend and report back. RPG

I've been working on deep water starts with my new Power Vest. For some reason it's a lot harder than I though it would be. Does anyone have any tips/advice? I find that I'm not able to bend as much (compared to a normal vest) and this is causing me to not have the ski out front where I need it. Right now I have the glove straps adjusted so that only on full arm extension, does the vest start to work. (while I'm up and skiing). btw, I love the vest, the way it allows you to relax a bit after a run. Seems to work as advertised in terms of reduced strain on my lower back. thanks, RPG

Thank You so much everyone.

I'm currently using a 'Brenda's' straight, narrow handle and rope and it's getting to the point..... Has anyone tried a curved handle (ARS) with a thicker diameter? Advantages/Disadvantages? My current handle is the small one, .970", I believe. thanks, RPG

"hey, you guys put up the course each weekend and my boy skis slalom. He says he wants to come out and show you gray hairs how to do it....." that's when I make I'm there with the Nikon and long, long lens....:)

My snows skis have slightly elevated boots that (I'm told) allow for more leverage in the turns. This has me thinking, would it be advantageous to just raise the bindings 1/8", 1/4", etc? My offside turn is terrible (poor angle, RFF), so any tips would be appreciated. RPG

I just wanted to share some observations since picking up a Goode Power Vest a few weeks ago to start the season. My first set of the year, I left the straps fully extended. Or at least what I thought was fully extended. It took me three attempts to get up as I wasn't in my normal body position with the vest. Or maybe I was leaning too far forward, idk. Once on the water it felt like magic. I immediately noticed the benefit of letting the vest do the work when taking the hit from the boat. You feel the hit in your hips, legs, and not the arms, forearms, shoulders or back. For me that's huge as I suffer from lower back issues constantly. The following weekend I decided to shorten up the straps a bit more. And I found this to be a huge difference in deep water starts. You just let the vest take the load and you pop right up. I like that. On the water, running 32 off with my new Connelly Carbon V, the vest performed wonderful. You make your cut, extend your arms, feel the load transfer to your legs and repeat. I really like the fact you can almost not hold on to the rope if you want to just relax for a bit. I've been wearing a rash guard so far and will likely do so into the summer. The only real strange part is when you set down, it takes a while to get the gloves off and you feel kind of trapped in the contraption. If the gloves aren't off, you're sort of in a straight jacket. So it messes with your head a bit until you can 'escape'. Overall, I'm really pleased I bought this expensive piece of gear. I think it will save some trips to the chiropractor and it definitely saves your strength for those course passes. my $.02 RPG

Remove the heads and have them magnafluxed. Many years ago I was ignorant about replacing the impeller on my Four Winns I/O and one spring, the first trip around the lake overheated the engine as the impeller shredded. It was found after months of diagnosis that the heads on the Vortec 4.3L had microscopic cracks, letting water into cylinders 1,3 and eventually hydrolocking the engine. What I would do is remove the heads and have them magnafluxed. Here in the Motor City, there's quite a few motor shops that can do that. if you suspect that's the only issue, get a set of rebuilt heads and install. That might be all you have to worry about. Small Block Ford and Chevy's are pretty bulletproof as I'm sure you know. Or as others have said, it might be time for a new long block.

I used mine for the 1st time this past Sunday. I've had on/off lower back problems for years. Sometimes, I'll come around 1 in a bad position and the hit from the boat locks me up and I'm done. So I was looking for some alternative to my often bad form. It took me a few tries to get up, but once on the water I was immediately impressed. Extend the arms to full strap length and the load moves to your legs. It sort of feels like your arms aren't even holding onto anything. I can make a few cuts, then take a breather. Without it, the load is always there, slowly wearing you down. I wore a rash guard mainly to stay a bit warmer (water temp was 60F) but never really felt the straps rubbing on anything. On our lake (open skiing), one full pass around (about three miles) and you're burning. Actually, I'm done 2/3 of the way, but I motioned to go around again, because it felt so effortless. I'm going to ski again tonight, hoping to get more comfortable. I think it's pretty cool. A well thought out piece of equipment. I'm glad I spent the money for sure. rpg

our lake is like that every weekend when the wakeboarders start getting busy.

First set on Sunday. Water still pretty cold in southern MI. I had a chance to try out my new Goode PowerVest and Connelly Carbon V. The vest was simply amazing. Once you're up (I needed to let the vest do the work, so it took a couple tries), if you let the straps extend, then you immediately transfer the load from your shoulders, arms, back, right to your hips. It's kind of magic really. It took some practice for arm extension and re-connect to the handle as the free hand has that strap extending all the way to the glove. You just have to be sure you have a good grip on the handle. But no big deal. The ski feels faster, less drag and is definitely less tiring than my older F1. I didn't push things but I can see the combined benefits of this new setup.

3rd for Ty. Great guy. Great coach.

the way we learned was when riding doubles, lift each ski out of the water. The leg that feels the strongest, most stable in the water is your front foot.

If you're looking for actual values, remember that atm. pressure at sea level is about 14.6psi. So if you get readings of 145 psi, then you're compression ratio in that cylinder is roughly 10:1. FWIW :) rpg

jetpilot, What was the measured resistance of the float/sending unit as Fast351 inquired? You can replace parts and hope for a solution but troubleshooting this methodically will save you money in the long run. The float for the tank goes up and down (obviously) as the fuel level changes, giving a change in resistance, and the gauge simply responds to these changes in resistance. You can buy a digital voltmeter at most Radio Shacks or Auto parts stores for less than $50. rpg

I agree with DW, starter issue due to hydrolocking. I used to have a '95 Four Winns with a 4.3 V6. One day, the engine overheated suddenly and I shut it down and paddled into shore. I replaced the damaged impeller but noticed that the engine didn't sound the same when turned over and when running, would start to idle funny and stall. Trying to re-start, the starter would act as if it was binding up on something and eventually, it cracked one of the starter mounting bosses on the block. Long story short. I pulled the heads and had them magnafluxed. Although it was invisible to the naked eye, one of the heads had a microscopic crack that was allowing raw water into #3 cylinder and in short order, hydrolocking the engine. I must say, a Vortec Chevy engine is one reliable, bulletproof SOB, because after replacing both heads and re-welding the starter boss, the engine is still going strong. (I sold it to a buddy with full disclosure). Lesson learned? I replace the impeller on my Inboard every year, whether it was 10 hours or 100.

Rudder Loading? On my MB, the boat has a constant, ever so slight pull to starboard. Is that rudder loading? I kind of prefer the neutral steering all the other boats in our club have. (two Prostars, and a Response). So I was thinking of how to make mine steer more neutral but am I to understand that the slight pull is desirable? thanks, rpg

When we have someone new to the course come ski with us, our saying is, "Its only water. What could go wrong?"

I think it depends on how far you're towing. My '96 Silverado with a 350 Vortec was a beast. It developed peak torque at 2200 rpm, so going down the road at 75mph was right in it's sweet spot. My current '07 Silverado with a 5.3LV8 has more peak horsepower (305 vs. 250), but the torque curve is moved up a bit and you can feel it when towing. It still pulls my MB Sports fine at 75mph but I've learned over the years that torque is what you want for towing, not horsepower. As the saying goes, "Horsepower sells, but torque is really what puts the smile on your face". :smile:

Just to be different...... 2002 MB Sports 190 Plus, loaded. Heater, Rear shower, Perfect Pass and a sweet running 350 PCM. Luxury AND super soft wakes.

Wait. Is that?????

Wednesday Night Ski League

Ordered mine. Great idea.

There's something magical about the sound of a small block Inboard on a summer morning.

Big Dawg Tournament a few years ago