lkb

I would like to get one for a 13" masterline Mapple radius. How do I order it?

how's the quality on the Roadrunner? thanks

Maybe no wing at all is the next step...? Is there such thing as making the ski too fast?

My skiing has been pretty crappy lately. No one thing in particular has been wrong but it's just felt too hard...like a fight with the boat never really getting clean passes. Yesterday I put on a Schnitz low-drag wing, same angle, same fin settings. It made a ton of difference! The ski seemed so much faster and the pass was so much cleaner and easier. It seems almost unbelievable that such a small thing could make so much difference. I'm still wondering if it's all in my head. Anybody experienced this before?

It would be interesting to see the stats relating to which system gets chosen the most on the MC

Is the tourney gonna be ZO only? I'm just curious to know if anybody still wants PP even though it doesn't have much of a future for tourney boats.

I've got a boat lift but I want something decent just for those few times a yr when I need to take it out of the water. The guy is asking $1500(negotiable) and says it's in avg to good shape. Anybody know of anything else for sale out there?

Does anybody know if a Prestige trailer that fits a 1995 nautique would work for an '08 nautique? Is Prestige a good product? Thanks-lkb

Is there a new rule for gates at class C tournaments?

If you try it you should probably use 250 to 400. It's a much stronger bond. There is an aluminum plate available with studs placed in the std hole pattern. It connects to the ski with a really strong double sided adhesive. With that you could bolt on the plate that is actually designed for the reflex. I think Henrik at Miami Ski Nautiques sells them.

Roger, did you'll have a nautique and a mastercraft pulling the tournament? If so, did you alternate rounds with the boats? I'm just wondering how the skiers reacted if there was a round where ZO was the only option. thanks

There is a pretty good picture of it over on Schnitzskis.com if anybody is curious. http://www.schnitzskis.com/images/549_DSC_4762_Wim_Header_Binding.jpg

I just put a reflex shell on the front of my plate. The goode shell was too flimsy for me plus it was cracking a lot. It also allowed more forward flex than I want but I left the rear shell alone. Like you said it doesn't matter as much back there.

Small gloves small bindings big ski. the only gloves my wife wears are the ones she uses to wash the dishes :-)

Mapple said that A is the most like an RPM-based speed control. That's all I know.

Eric, I'm not sure if I made it clear but it isn't saying that it's .03 slow for the first seg, then an additional .03 for the second seg, and so on meaning that when it got to six it had to make up .15 seconds. It was .03 cumulative slow then it picked it up just a fraction at the end. Sorry if I was unclear. I really like the pull. Since I got the revision I have been using C which feels nice.Yesterday I switched to A and I like it a lot too. I e-mailed Mapple to get his description of A, B, and C. He says he uses A when he skis 34. He said it picks you up later and lets off of you later which in is opinion helps keep speed up coming into the buoy. He says C picks you up more agressively off the ball and it gets off of you quicker. He said he uses C when he skis 36 so that he has longer to slow down approaching the ball.

Skibug, I watched ZO closer yesterday. I drove 6 passes. Every pass was .02 or .03 slow on buoys 1 through 5. At 6 it was .01 slow. At the endgate it was 16.95.

I have two rights I can trade you. They are masters curves size small.

I tried sand on 10:1 slopes. It didn't do so good. It gets pulled down into the deeper water over time.

Skibug, the only noticeable pattern I have seen is the slow three ball thing.

With a skier, my ZO is always slow by .02 or .03 at three ball. Not off much but it seems odd that it is always on the slow side. The end time is always 16.94, .95, or .96.

JD, although the letter can't be changed on the rec page, I don't think it defaults to "A" though when you go to rec mode. Whatever letter you set it to on the tourney page stays with you on to the rec page. Also if that boat has revision "J"(the oldest) you will feel a noticeable difference when you get revision "O". But it is correct that revision "P" (the latest) only changes something about jumping. You may want to read the More on GPS thread from last week. It explains the characteristics of the letters. That info was put out by Freddy Kreuger to Mastercraft promo people. lkb

The info above came to me as a forward from a senior driver/Mastercraft promo guy that I ski with. The answers to all those questions are by Freddy Kreuger. lkb

I have a question. Which slalom mode is the most aggressive and which is the softest A,B or C ? It works a little different with ZO than PP, but let me see if I can make it make sense. In PP we are used to having a "KX" value that makes the pull stronger or weaker. If you go to "+" the boat gets stronger "-" and the boat gets weaker. With Zero Off the letter "B" is comparable to "normal" in PP. And what that means is that if you could map the way the gain settings come on the skier off the buoy and then how they release the skier into the ball, the graph would look like a "bell curve". So the boat will release the skier into the buoy with the same intensity it picks the skier up off the ball. The letter "A" is often referred to as the more aggressive pull setting, but in reality the "A" setting is more aggressive off the buoy when you start your pull, but will release you into the buoy the same way as the letter "B". The letter "C" is exactly the opposite of letter "A". So letter "C" will pick you up off the buoy the same as letter "B", but will release you more aggressively into the buoy so you feel more free into the ball. Now the obvious question is, "why not just do stronger or weaker"? The reason for this is because the system is based on speed and not on an RPM pull just going stronger or weaker with the gain settings didn't seem to fit well with the athletes doing the early testing. In fact it was a unanimous decision to go with the system as it currently is based. Later we found that the reason this works is because different skiers want to get to different widths on the boat and these 3 settings are most likely to allow the skier to move to different places on the boat. Where should you start? Start with the letter "B" and then try "A", last try "C". Most of the pro skiers I am finding like either "B" or "A", but we have the occasional "C". For 2008 the gain setting for A,B, and C are lower than they were for 2007 and thus the pull is more forgiving and more comparable to what we are all used to. I think those of you who tried ZO last year and have tried it again with the new gains, will really appreciate the improvements. I have heard that it depends on whether you have the newest version of Zero Off or not. Which version do we have ? You should all have version "O". I am going to give you instructions on how to check what version you have. I would like you all to check and see and let me know if you do not have version "O". To find what version you currently have press and hold the "MENU/SCRN" button until the menu bar comes up across the top of the screen. Highlight the "SCREEN" option by using the arrows and then press the "SELECT" button. Then using the arrows scroll down until you get to the "DIAGNOSTICS" screen. Press the "SELECT" button and then TAP the "MENU/SCRN" button twice to view the Diagnostics screen. The first two lines on this screen display hardware part number, serial number (1st line) and software part number (left side of 2nd line). The software part number will look like "SW: E1886100O". The last O in this line is the version of software that you all have. When you get a newer version the last digit will be a "P" or whatever version you get. NOW THIS IS IMPORTANT: WE HAVE A NEW VERSION THAT WE ARE TESTING CURRENTLY THAT WILL BECOME VERSION P. THE ONLY DIFFERENCE IN VERSION P AND VERSION O, IS THAT WE FOUND A SMALL MEMORY LOGIC ISSUE IN VERSION "O" WHEN YOU GO TO USE THE JUMP PROGRAM. I AM GOING TO TELL YOU HOW TO WORK AROUND THE PROBLEM, AND AS SOON AS POSSIBLE WE WILL GET YOU ALL UPDATED WITH NEW VERSIONS, AND I WILL EXPLAIN HOW WE ARE GOING TO DO THAT IN A MINUTE. FIRST LETS ADDRESS THE JUMP ISSUE. THIS IS FROM JOE GROGAN FROM ZERO OFF: There is a workaround that allows RevO software to function properly even with the software issue if someone has it installed and needs to run a tournament. The problem only shows up if someone has both a slalom and jump course mapped, and transitions from slalom mode into jump mode using the UP button once the system is in course select mode (done by highlighting the course name using the SEL button). If they get into jump mode from trick mode using the DOWN button (pressing UP cycles through the course types in the order slalom/jump/trick and back to slalom, while pressing DOWN goes in the reverse order slalom/trick/jump ...) then the problem does not occur. Obviously we want to eliminate this problem completely, I'm just letting you know what works if someone is in a pinch and needs to use RevO at short notice. SO WHAT JOE IS SAYING IS THAT IF YOU GO FROM THE SLALOM MODE AND WANT TO GO TO THE JUMP MODE, PLEASE HIGHLIGHT THE COURSE SELECT MODE (BOTTOM CENTER OF YOUR SCREEN) THEN PRESS THE DOWN ARROW TO CHANGE FROM SLALOM TO TRICK THEN TO JUMP. AGAIN, I APOLOGIZE FOR THE INCONVIENENCE, BUT THIS IS A SIMPLE WORK AROUND, UNTIL WE CAN GET YOU THE FIX AND ALL FORMULAS YOU ARE CURRENTLY USING ARE THE SAME AS VERSION P. Do we all have the same version? You should all have version "O". Is it the newest version? See above.  Is there a new version in development? Gentlemen, there will always be a new version in development. Always. And you will have access to these changes as soon as we release them. Let's go over how we will update your systems. In the past if you wanted to update your PP you got a new chip. ZO will use what we call an FTP web site. We are making available USB cords that will plug directly from your Windows based laptop into your engine. You will be able to go the website, put in your serial number for your head unit (see the above to know how to get the serial #), you will download a program with software then install that software into your boat. Zero Off will sell the cords for cost, I think the cost is currently about a $130. I will have 3-5 cords that I will mail to you for you to borrow, and you MUST mail it straight back to me so we can get others done, as well as MasterCraft will be getting cords out to our regional coordinators. You will also be able to take your boat to your local dealer and they can download the software for you via the diacom systems they check your engines with. I know this may not seem like the easiest thing in the world and I assure you some of you will be inconvienced, but if we all appreciate that his is a new speed control system and things will be moving forward as fast as possible. I will also say that if you can buy one of the "dongle" USB cords for cost now, I think it would be a good investment as in the future we plan on releasing software you will be able to "map" your progress in skiing through this same cord. Maybe even some day you'll be able to see what you look like compared to Andy Mapple! This company has some exciting stuff on the docket, hopefully we can get it all done and out to you quickly and seamlessly.

JD, Checking for the revision is really simple. When you power up the ZO you should see "rev O" in big letters on the first screen that comes up. If it don't see it you still have the old version. If you need the update you will have to have a communications cable(maybe I could mail you mine if your dealer doesn't have one) and you'll have to download the software and get a password to run it. That part requires that you call ZO. I have a phone # for the guy that you should talk to. E-mail me if you need help. I was lead to believe that my boat had the revision before it left the factory. It took a lot of e-mailing to figure that it didn't and to figure out how to get it updated. My dealer didn't know anything about it. Correct Craft doesn't have the logistics worked out on this at all.