A_B

6B, my problems started like that, then eventually, would just die completely, and not start. Ended up being the relay switch on the back of the motor. I guess it is very common for them to fail after several years. Hard to tell exactly, but I would make a WAG that he is headed for what I had. Skidim had them. USAWSA gets 10% discount.

Richard got me thinking about it, and I said the low pressure pump is in the cannister, which is incorrect. It is located outside the cannister, and feeds the cannister with fuel, which had the main efi pumps sort of dangling from the top, which in turn feed the fuel rail. It is a fairly small unit, mounted close to the cannister. I have the old low pressure pump somewhere in my garage, that I think is good, as my trouble ended up being the relay. Email me if you have an interst in getting it cheap. amjbishop at yahoo dot com. My thought on my boat was to just replace the low pressure pump from Skidim, as it wasn't that expensive, and by the time you go to a dealer with a gauge and all, I figured I just had a new pump for my old boat. I also bought a filter in the cannister, after like 7 years. The guys I ski with hadn't done it either, so I didn't feel that bad. See the PCM GT40 engine manual at link below, about 300 pages in PDF format on PCM or SN website. It has all the specs and troubleshooting guide. It was very good info.  http://www.planetnautique.com/CorrectCraftManuals/GT-40%20Service%20Manual.pdf One other thing you can do is clean out the checkball valve sitting on top of the fuel tank. Mine was marked with red tape or something as there are a few, mainly for venting and return from the pump. If this is sticking, due to Stabil or whatever, fuel flow might be compromised initially. This is a long shot, but cheap one. Low Pressure Fuel Pump: http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n73/ab38off/fuelpump.jpg

Nice stringer in the pic. Reminds me of the last time I went fishing with my dad. The first fish of the day was my 32" that broke our net, landed it by wrapping a rag around his hand. Next in was a 29". What a day. Never caught two like that before and ever since. Great memory.  Regarding the boat, have you changed the fuel cannister filter? Everyone seems to forget about that, I know I did! I believe the low pressure pump really controls starting and low idle, it is housed in the fuel cannister. I believe there is a pressure check on the fuel cannister that you can hook into, if you have one. I bought a new filter, pump, and then relay, with the relay being the problem. Mine just wouldn't start, then start and run fine. You sound like it is more of a fuel supply.  The relays on the back of the engine are usually noticed failing by not starting at all, or a quick fire and die, almost like a kill switch, on off.

It would have to have ARS setup if it is vertical. You could buildup the rubber and grind away vs bending. At first I thought it would have to be specific to what palm up you are, but then I figured out that it would just flip.

Last I heard from Adam was that they are still being fine tuned and due out for Spring. The binding looks very interesting. I like the concept of the top cuff opening up, just wonder if it will become less tense over time and not hold you the same way as out of the box.

After getting the disc under control, I would recommend going to a Kineseologist. We have a very good one who is also a Chiro, and after years of low back pain after a slip and fall on ice, he was able to fix it. I had seen MD's, Chiros, and PT's, and no one fixed the core problem. He found it, and did some very painful work on torqued muscles, and that was it. Agree with the suoerman drills, and other core stretches once fixed up.

Scoke, allow me, I speak Jive...... Sorry, couldn't resist in honor of Leslie Nielson's passing. I think the gist of it is that you setup the edge change by NOT trying to increase lean as you are in the wakes. If you watch the pros, they load the handle going into the wake, maintain, then pop out of it right after the second wake onto an edge change. The hips below the waist have to be pointed on your line ( we use to say point with your peepee) but the shoulders can stay more open. Old school would have the shoulders rotated to the line of travel as well. I am guilty all the time of trying to get that little bit extra behind the boat, and delaying my edge change transition.

How do I turbo charge a 51 year old engine and upgrade my suspension?

Mine gets antifreeze run through it for winter and sits in my garage all year. I keep a Plastic water bottle in the garage to see if it ever freezes. And never in 10 years has It froze. My leaks in the heater have always started in summer. Never had one start out of the gate in Spring, so it Isn't from freezing. Probably bouncing around pulling tubers at the lake!

The older Ford Bronco cores work as well. I have a '99 SN and seems like every 3 years it leaks. First time I has it soldered at a welder for $20 then I just started buying the cheap Ford auto cores. I keep the bypass plug handy.

Progear dude might sell more gloves if he changed his slogan. Unbelievable, he still has that crap on his website. I looked at them when they came out and didn't buy them because of it then and still won't now. Call me a prude, but....

Agree on removing the dowels. Still get pretty of hookup and they don't get stuck. In regard to the new Pro Locks, I have a pair and they modified the top of the hand closure, and instead of a plain velcro overlay, it has a reverse velcro overlay, which I found way too small for my hand. Had to modify it. The reverse lock is an improvement, but it is just too tight. You have to make sure your fingers run all the way to the tips of the gloves if you want the straps to work, so a larger pair will not be as effective.

Anyone care to review the Elite's vs Prodigy vs RS1 etc.... Who is selling them?

At my age I can't zip up a back zipper or use a pullover.

Maybe just BOS on the back? As long as it is a little longer in front than some of these belly revealing vests that are out there. :) Extra flotation is a good thing! Call me old fashioned, but I still like a strap and buckle in front.

Agree with the 200 going in the wrong direction. I am a CC guy always had one and thought I always would, but, the 200 seems to be going in the wrong direction in hull/engine efficiency. We need a v6 powered ski boat not a v10.

High performance I/O drives have bullet tips and they have been known to add mph over standard round nose cones. Not as much drag with the Strut but I'm sure it couldn't hurt.

Hydrodyne use to test some hulls in our lake. One boat had a transluscent hull and no floor boards except for drivers area. There was also a plexiglass section in the floor above the area from rudder to in front of the prop. They were looking at waterflow through the plexiglas floor. Maybe you need one of those? To me, start with the 97-01 SN hull and make tweaks to get rid if the dip between the wakes at 38/39 off and that would be close to perfection - without running at 4200 rpm for 34 mph.

I would even settle for "watered-down" slalom with PP instead of full strength 100 proof ZO.

I am 12 reg. What size would I wear?

How do the Prodigy or Elites bolt to a plate? I am wondering if a good setup for them might be to mount to a G10 plate and any tip biting fall the plate would release like a powershell? The video shows a release out the front but sometimes the ski will trap you in and needs to release the other way. thoughts?

I ski at a lake in Michigan that has a very bad weed problem in mid-summer. The weeds die off and the water looks like tap water, clear all the way to the bottom, about 10 feet. It started getting this clear when the weed problem came on the scene. We dye our pond and use Amurs (sterile) for algae. Our lake is 18 foot deep and only had algae on sides.  The downside to dye is it seems to keep the water a few degrees cooler, but just a little.

What, there are BOS stickers? Anyone from Ohio eligible to get one? I lost my sponsorship http://www.ballofspray.com/vanillaforum/js/tinymce/jscripts/tiny_mce/plugins/emotions/images/smiley-cool.gif, so looking to fill up my ski with stickers! Ed - RJM is on his way to SD. He said he was retiring from posting. Too bad, he brings a lot of enthusiasm to the table.

Are you using tips on the length? It's been a while since I rode the 69 Senate, but I liked a longer fin than stock and near stock depth. Mayne a fuzz shallower. I even liked the standard Goode fin better on it. It has a deeper leading edge. At 32 you may need the binding at stock or one hole back so the ski runs out better. Adjust the fin to turn better.

My friend tried one from Ty Op this past summer and really liked it. His all time favorite ski was a very soft Sixam, which broke. So if you like Sixams, you may have a similar feeling of euphoria. I thought he said it was about $2k, so that was a bit of a gulp. The ski he was on had to go back, or he might have bought it. It was the most consistent and best top scores he posted all year. He skied on a Nomad, 9800, A1, and a Sixam 2 point. Usually runs 35 in M5.