A_B

Some type of gang signal?

 I liked the Goode blue fin on my Senate C. Had a little more "belly" to it, so better offside angle.

 I went out tonight and crammed one round in. Before all this info was revealed today, I had set the fin similar to a Goode standard fin and didn't have time to adjust. Setup was about 6.870 jaws, 2.450, and .710, and 9 degrees. The ski felt a ton better. Again, I am semi-free skiing at 28 off 34.2 mph, going around and shadowing some buoys, but trying to get back into skiing, so not exactly pushing the envelope. I think the key was the correct ratio of length to depth, where before I think the ski was out of balance, at least for me. My thoughts are to add depth, dft and length, working my way towards stock numbers.  But in general, the ski felt as good as my old trusty 9500, and effort was a little less behind the boat. Oh yea, made all my deepwater starts too. http://www.ballofspray.com/vanillaforum/js/tinymce/jscripts/tiny_mce/plugins/emotions/images/smiley-smile.gif

CD, are your cold/hot water settings backwards?

I tried your setup first and then went to stock, I did move the bindings ahead for the second round as well, trying to egage the tip better. I wrote your numbers down, and will go back to them but take some depth out and try one hole ahead again. My Animal in the middle seems to be around 30.25 and stock is 30.5. Onside felt good, but offside was way off for me. Thanks

The Goode "slotted" caliper makes DFT easy to repeat. Although, the jaws are different from the standard Miutoyo that their base skis used to be setup from. I have a Goode calibrated caliper and compared length on my caliper to the length measured by the new Goode slotted caliper and they was quite a difference. It is due to different sized jaws.

I got in the Z1st this weekend, didn't touch JD settings and then went to stock. I have to admit, I did not miss a deepwater start all summer (not that I have skied that much), but I missed the first 2 on the Z1 and missed another in the second round (at stock settings). This is telling me that the ski is not setup right for me. Goes hard left on start - right foot forward. On my offside turn, the ski puts me on my ear and runs down the buoyline and requires a lot of effort to get back under me. Could be why it rolls over and hard left on start?? In general, the flex numbers are on the lighter side, which you would think would make it turn like a demon. Front 152FWD 130Mid 90Tail 69It seems like the onside turn and pull are okay. Fin is at 6.925 tips, 2.520, and .750 flat. Ran 7 degree upside down in top (normal) hole location. My  inclination is to raise the back or drop the front. Thoughts?

I had a 9500 look like a pickle fork dragster after a handle pop and also took a chunk out of my Radar. I just thought the 1/4" thickness up front on the Elite may not be as resistant. Back on a 67" 9500 and waiting for a 68" Z1 to show up. Didn't really like the A1 I was trying this year.

I'm right there with you JH. I have a great looking and running '99 SN and everyone loves the wakes, but due to ZO, it is obsolete. That is BS. Now that I have been skiing behind ZO a few times this year, it reminds me of bad hot-sticking from years The biggest problem I see is that if you get into the boat on a pull to make up time, the boat bites back because it is hell bent on running actual. So what if it turns in a 16.99 or 17.01 if you scramble? I've foamed lighter work in the gates actually helps keep the rpm surge down after one ball. Now I am a load at 250, so when I hit the boat I hit the boat. Re olympics - we would need to start drug testing and all the rest of the crap that goes with it. Why bother? They can't manage speed control how are they to manage athletes? Would we get tv revenue infused back into the sport to help pay for the new LAYERS of administration? Can't wait to see what the dues would go to.

I looked at the Elite but I have been known to pop the handle on deepwater starts on occasion and I could envision knocking the whole tip off of it!!

Is the Elite a little wider than "standard" ?

Yep, that looks like what he was skiing on last night. Ran 5@35 first set, (only ran 35 a few times this year), was getting a little slack on his onside turn. Made an adjustment and second round went the wrong way. Really likes the ski though. At those prices, he wishes he didn't. BTW, he has probably skied on just about everything coming down the pike in the past year or two, and he says this ski has that wow factor his 9100 had years ago. Construction looks great, carbon fin as well. I think I saw one on Ski it again, for $1600. fin not included.

Sans Rival sent him settimgs today and they were sllightly different than fisher. A little shallower and longer. Isnt fisher now lazer or sonething?

Thanks Joe. Just getting back into it slowly after sitting out since last July. I'm sure it will handle the extra weight better than my 9500. My friend really likes the Sans so far.

Looking for any info on Sans Rival ski. A friend has a 68" to play around on but website has nothing. Thanks. AB

Dave wants to sell Power $hell$.

Deanoski - my rear plate will need to be drilled in order to move the binding forward. I did this a few years back. The footbed is now adhesive stuck to the plate, which is a little problem, but was moveable. I guess my thought is that the skis should come with 2 sets of holes for the back plate. one a little more forward for those who like the bindings closer together. Now I need to do some work and I just want to ski!!ÂÂ

on the A1 - there is 2.25" from the center of the last insert for the front plate to the center of the insert for the front hole for the back plate. I sold my radar so can't measure it but wonder if the A1 is farther apart? I am using fairly new HO Animals, so would think that they would be okay. The holes are ok for the plate- just too far apart between the plates????

Do you know how far the back insert on the front is from the front insert for the back? I am right at 30" which is one hole back on my Animal. I am already all the way forward with the back plate. The boots are XL and I wear size 12. I can't imagine how much space there would be if I wore like a size 9 or something.

coming off a radar to A1 seems like there is a larger gap between front and rear plate on the A1. True? Mounted my animals up and skied last night and couldn't get my toes up on the back of the front boot like normal back boot is all the way up and front is one notch back to hit stock setup. Have read that ski is better one notch forward which would just make the gap worse. Am I smoking something???!

We had the same thing happen 2 years ago. One rope had a switch section in it and we were using the switch, the other rope was fine.Some skiers got it and were killing their PB's, so we stopped and checked. The only problem was I used a good rope and ran 3.5@38 (which was where I had been running in practice) and the entire round was scrapped. I was on a bum ankle and the second round the ankle was swollen and basically shot and I don't think I got through 32 off. Really bummed. Didn't even go out for  the third round.  One guy was really pissed and being very disrespectful to the organizer, but I thought it was somewhat comical, but figured everyone got the same deal, only I was a little more screwed due to my ankle.

 Thanks for the info. I might be looking for an Elite 68.5 or A1/S1 or Z7 for a ride. Not sold on the Goode Wide Ride.

How does it compare to the Senate or a standard Goode like a 9500?

 Is the Elite the same dimensions as the A1/S1? Anyone have any forebody, mid, and tail width measures?  Thanks

Ouch, I have been lucky so far and only taken the tip off a few times and put a nice dent in the top.  You can fix this, but think you will have to file down the narly stuff being really careful to not change the top edge and bevel of the ski. Fill in the remaining gap with JB Weld and then block sand down to match the rest of the ski.