Chris Rossi

Season ticket holder for Salt Lake Real for 3 years now. Love supporting USA soccer and MLS. Go Team USA!

I like our factory numbers as they are the settings I have found to be the best. Rini's settings are great too and have a ton more tip pressure built into them. The vastly different settings and boot placement shows that this ski is not overly sensitive to set up numbers and can be tweaked to suit skier style. I gave @mzito‌ two sets of numbers based off Rini settings and off my settings so he could have the option to try both.

To me your ski does not look set up right.

Eddie and the others at the factory take pride in sending skis out set at our factory numbers as @ShaneH‌ found out. The only way to be sure is to measure it. Is there something the ski could be doing better? I'm happy to help you dial the ski in further if necessary.

My home in Orlando area is for sale too but not for 200k.

Glad to see you back ripping it @skidawg and happy to help with your set up. It has been fun to hear of the success skiers are having on this ski. We put countless hours into the design, prototyping, and set up of these skis to give you the best out of the box experience possible.

There are some good questions here to work with. Let's leave it open until the end of the day and then call it. Thanks for taking the time to participate and I look forward to answering!

We now have the sizing more true to hand size. I wear a medium as I like them snug. In the pro shop and dry they are difficult to get on. The first use they feel tight and the over the palm strap seems short. By fifth set, everything fits perfect. The added stitching to the pinky area really helps the glove last much longer. Go with as small a diameter handle as you feel comfortable.

Hey guys did not read through the thread but wanted to clarify something. If the screws are centered on the bottom of the plate, the boot is centered. The construction of the boot makes it look like it is toed in, but it is not. That being said, I rotate my front boot out 1/8" (I have done this for past 10-12 years).

Looks to me like you turned two so well that you overloaded out of the turn and pulled the boat over that way. Then the extra load/speed sent you wide/fast into 3 and the driver may have had to correct at the same time to get boat back to center causing the slack. I would focus on skiing your outside hip to the handle at the finish of the turn (not pulling the handle to your outside hip) and then settling into a lean position vs a loaded position (one where you are trying to pull the boat backward).

The P6 will make you smile and take your skiing to the next level.

I'd recommend a 71" Radar P6 and slow down to 26-30 mph. That ski has a ton of surface area to allow you to slow the boat down. You may be able to go even slower than 26.

Great start guys! Keep them coming. I appreciate the thought that each of you are putting into your questions and hope to answer each of them as long as I have time.

I agree with @Horton. Take the buoys out of the equation (it's called free skiing) and you will find that the further out you go, the more difficult it is to make a turn without slack. Then add the lack of space and time to make a turn, and you have the sum of what makes it hard. Keeping it simple is key.

Get yourself a bent or radius handle as well. In my experience, most skier elbow pain stems from taking slack hits and hyper extending the elbow. The above brace is what I went to first but moved to a bent handle and have not had any issues since. Also, you should try to address the technical weaknesses you have so you do not take as many slack hits.

I can remember thinking to myself am I ever going to get back to last years form? This happened early on in my skiing before I had the understanding of the physics and techniques required. I was just doing. The more you know (and have implemented) the quicker you will come back. I take my first 4-8 sets to just run my opening pass. This helps me get back into my groove AND more importantly, does not get me overly sore. Take the first month of your skiing and work on technique. Do not worry about buoy count for this month. This is your time to implement new techniques for your upcoming season. I would strongly suggest skiing with a coach in the very early stages of your year (earlier the better) so that you can get a few new techniques to focus on. Also and this is super important, listen to your body during this month. If you are really sore, do not ski. You are not in ski shape and can really set back your year by not listening to your fatigued body.

@Horton nailed it. Strada/Vapor boots run very true to size. Buy the closest to your shoe size. The only way I would downsize is if you have very skinny/narrow feet and are a half size.

Global Marine is my choice! Jim and the crew there are skiers who take care of skiers.

cardio, cardio, cardio, cardio, cardio, squat, deadlift, bench, cardio, cardio, cardio, cardio, push ups, pull ups, cleans, cardio, cardio, cardio...It is much easier to improve strength to weight ratio by losing weight than it is by adding muscle. Also, drink a lot of water as most people do not reach their recommended daily intake. 12oz curls are cool, but running a PB is much cooler!

Try the following numbers @roda: 28 3/4" 2.500 6.855 0.755 9 Should help with what you described

Stronger boats do not need to work as hard to hold speed and thus to me feel like they give a softer pull. This is very evident here in Utah where the course is at 5000+ feet. Even in FL I would opt for a 6L Malibu or Natique if offered over 5.7.

@wtrskior "I've been told by a number of different coaches about casting the handle out past centerline at my tougher passes at shorter lines. I'm able to get through -28off pretty consistently but not 32 or 35off at 34mph. I have a strong lean and pull too much too soon or too long I've been told at times . I've had a tough time visualizing this pushing the handle out concept and making it happen consistently." I am not familiar with this concept. I like to think about being strong to the centerline (middle of the wakes) and then allowing my body to come up and pass the handle while I travel out to the buoy line. Staying connected to the handle with two hands during the pre turn helps to get the body moving forward which helps release the tail of the ski to get the ski rotating before the buoy.

mwetskier "i seem to remember in one of your articles you wrote that you never want to be 'free of the boat'. can you expand on that thought?" In an ideal world, you are either applying force to the rope (apex to centerline) or you're the weight at the end of the line (plumb bob concept) from centerline out to apex. This statement does not mean that you are heavy on the line from centerline out, but that you are a weight that keeps the rope in a straight line. If the rope is loose, you have come too far to the inside and are inside your optimal ski path. Most skiers come to the inside because they pull too long and are trying to ski too early in the course. The handle has a set optimal path for each line length. Our goal as skiers should be to understand that path and work to get as close to optimal as possible.

Thanks everyone. I'm hoping for all the ballers out there to use my participation here as an avenue to progress. Feel free to fire away your questions on the topics in ask Rossi and start thinking of new questions for chapter 3 of the "Ask Rossi contest"

@ToddL "What is the one or two things that you had to learn/master to get over one of your biggests plateaus in running up the ski rope? These might be things that you have so incorporated into your style that now they are automatic, so think back... Also, how did you obtain that skill or ability?" I'd say my biggest two breakthrough concepts were: 1) Be ok with my vision or sight line being narrow of the buoy line. Like many here I was stuck at 35 for a long time. I could run 32 every set but struggled to run 35. It took me a while to realize that I was trying to make 35 look like 32 but at this line length the rope is closing in on being short of the buoy at 90 degrees to the pylon. I found myself pulling harder and longer at 35 but still ending up narrow! It's very frustrating so say the least. I did not start running 35 consistently until I grew my confidence so I stopped pulling so hard/long, and finally the lightbulb went off that I will not see outside the buoy line on any line lengths past 32 off. 2) Turns are not where you make up time in the course. The turns are where we as skiers are vulnerable. To try to make up for mistakes here is the greatest mistake. Where do we fall almost 100 percent of the time? Not until I started focusing on completing the turn (no matter how down course I am) and skiing into a stacked position (power triangle http://slalomguru.com/articles.php?article=power) did I start to get consistent with my skiing.