h2odawg79

@Bracemaker, ya Man! I like it! The angle is SOoooooooooo much better then trying to hold the position on Carpet! The one thing that I would change is the counter wgt. to increase the "Fall Back" Speed a little... I have a Hvy Bungee attached to the Rope and it takes up the slack at the start to middle. This allows me to "Fall Back" at literally a "Free Fall". I like this, b/c there's no wussy footin' around when I practice my drop into my Stacked position! I don't want to ingrain a slow controlled drop, I want it dynamic and CORE-tastic! Thx for posting!!! Thx @MattP for the technical help!

@disland, do what ever works for you. Progression is the objective. But, it is a Tug of War with 300hp and you need to be able to fall back quickly (Lock & Load) into a Great Leveraged position to utilize those 300hp's and not be spanked!

@rico, I'll take it anywhere I can get it! Liv. rm., Trailor hitch, Tree, on the water in the course, free skiing, etc... (some of us don't have quite as much on the water ski access as others) I illustrate that particular "overly exaggerated" example b/c SOOOOOOOOOoooooo Many guys tie the Rope too frickin' High and NEVER EVER learn to "Fall Back" properly into a solid lean with their arms out straight and there Hips up with the Core fully engaged. -they barely lean & basically stand upright and wonder why they never get it... Ummm, and it was inconjunction with a couple of other drills. NOT meant to be the Miracle cure all I love the Critique though

@Horton, "I know not everyone likes the Advanced Topics category" What is the actual purpose of this "Advanced Topics"??? Besides eliminating input from all members and thus, severely limiting participation, it also kinda segregates the community kinda like the the Stars did... If my opinion or input counted, I'd have to ask; Where/what is the Advantage? Maybe those who dis-like the Advanced Topics, really don't understand the value of it...

When I need to quiet the Mind; Just Grip it and Rip it... After a hard fall, I look at the water and say: Is that all you got?!?!

@BraceMaker, Sweeeet! I'll look that up. I've have a couple of idea's for a tilting and swiveling platform. But, I just keep putting off doing it... Aside from the bonus of the swivel aspect, I'd Love to simply add some angle for the feet to better replicate the entire edge and Body angles. -Procrastination is a killer! ;-[

@Skijay, That's Golden! Timeless, and So Lucky

I believe your pull out needs to be a tad more aggresive on your Lean and on the length (distance)of your Lean. You are giving up approx: 1/2 second of Lean and giving it to your Glide. Which makes your Glide at least a 1/2 sec. longer then it needs to be. This is costing you both Speed and Width. -which is Killing your Gate shot... #2. You have developed a Horrible habitual Handle Dunk at 1-3-5. I say habitual b/c you are not just gently caressing the water sometimes, you are at times actively & forcibly punching the water, even at times when you really don't need the crutch. It appears to be an ingrained habit. I say horrible b/c it is like a road to nowhere... Generally, Skiers will dunk when they are narrow and late. B/c of their Body positioning, they tend to almost "Slide into 3rd Base" while going around the Ball. This is from being out of position and off Balance.... Even when running Narrow and Late, you must (more then ever) keep your Hips up, Chest out, Head/Vision UP in order to avoid losing your balance, COM back, Ski out in front and "Sliding into 3rd"... -your 1-3-5 turns right now are "Re-active" and they need to be "Pro-active" Good job in March though! At least you are out on the water! Most of us are still sitting around 'bout to go all Jack Nicholson! HONEY, I'MMMMMMMMMMM HOME... ;-D

@6balls, Ha, ha Agreed! It's a bit over Kill I know, but it's a Killer way to prepare for my little battle with 300+ hp! Ironically, you can really "Feel" Arm Pres. and Wgt. distibution while Hangin' out like this. And talk about a Smokin' Quad conditioner! 30 second drills are killer after about 8-10 times.

@disland, I like Hard Core Dry land Lean/Pull Drills in various positions to remind me to stay down and powerful. (it's important not to tie the Rope too High off the ground. 27" works well for me) On the water, two things would be to do some Open water Lean Drills on each side of the boat. Do a "Pull Out" and then just keep leaning. Get as far up on the boat as humanly possible 5 times and then do the other side. #2. Now take the Dry land and the Water drills and put them both to use in Open Water, doing some Hard core whip drills. Do as many wake crossings as you can with a solid, stacked pull position. With NO concerns of any Buoys, you should be able to stay down in your fully leveraged position...

@matthewbrown, Great video Todd's "Vision" going into, through and exiting the Turns is exceptional. (especially 1-3-5) The body follows the Head and his head is Level which gives him great balance and stability and he is focussing on his various focal pts. far away from the Ball itself. i.e. the Shoreline, then down the Buoy line allowing him to stay in a balanced countered position from pre-turn to hook up and not being drawn into the Buoy narrow and fast... Above all else, for me this "Vision" is what makes or breaks my continued Outbound path. @AB, Great Topic

This Morning High teens Today's Normal High 63 Today's Record High 89 Today's forecasted High; 43

Punxsutawney Phil, YOU SUCK! What were you and the Nat'l Weather Service Guys Smokin' last month anyway!?!? -crack heads... d~]

3 pg's later... Ummmm, what ever happened to good 'ol Golden Manufacturers settings? -Ha! anyone interested in buying a Tuning Guide?!?! sorry, I just couldn't resist!!! =D All Tweaks aside, kinda sounds as though D3 has come up with a Great Ski to be reckoned with in 2013...

Can I at least get a "meh," Amen then! of course I was really shooting for a Big Johnny Bravo Hoo Haw Amen... =D

@Horton, No. You are overstating the impact of the tail radius. O.K. then, a Significant Difference. (Mainly through the preturn and the Turn aspect) -Enough difference to envoke some skiers to want to adjust their bindings slightlty fwd/aft or tinker with their Fin... can I get an Amen?

@Brady, Ha! Your a Goof! and Hortons gonna start thinkin' your Wake Boarder! =D

Since a Ski is designed as a total package, it would stand to reason that 2 identical Ski's would react totally different if the only change between them was a Round and a Square Tail. Example: A rounded tail will generally ride deeper through the Turn and produce a tail that is less prone to blow out, but can create tip rise after apex and a Square tail will ride shallower and help keep the attitude of the Ski flatter increasing the opportunity to hold speed better through the turn. But, these same characteristics could also be replicated or reversed with different rockers, widths, rails and bevels, etc... -that is why everything impacts the ski characteristics

A Ski is also broken down into 3 basic Zones; Zone 1 (from Tail to heel of rear foot) Zone 2 (from rear heel to Front foot toes) Zone 3 (from front foot toes to end of running surface) Each zone will usually have a different (Modified) Bevel. Basic Bevels cuts can range from a hard cut 45 deg to a more rounded (radiused) bevel with little to no 45 deg left in the bevel. (Very Short example) A hard angle Bevel (45 deg w/no radius) will produce an edge that will allow the Ski to sit higher in the water and track like it is on rails. A modified bevel will allow the Ski to roll onto it's edge easier and ride a little deeper in the water, creating a Ski that will turn easier but not track as well. The outside edge of the Bevel (top side of bevel) can be Tuned for particular performance characteristics. As well as the inside edge (bottom) of the Bevel. Tuning would be "Softening" or "Sharpening" the Outside/inside edges, based on the desired change needed. All three Zones will usually have a mixture of edges. "Blending" Hard edges to Rounded edges to create the desired performance Characteristics of the Manufacturer or Personalized by the Skier... Much like Tuning a Fin, tuning the Bevels can enhance or reduce certain performance characteristics of a Ski or help to personalize it for an individual... Caution: Don't break out the File and Block sander and start "Tuning" just yet! -This is waaaaaay more crucial and exacting then tuning a Fin and there is No going back once you've gone a little Too far!

A Ski is also broken down into 3 basic Zones; Zone 1 (from Tail to heel of rear foot) Zone 2 (from rear heel to Front foot toes) Zone 3 (from front foot toes to end of running surface) Each zone will usually have a different (Modified) Bevel. Basic Bevels cuts can range from a hard cut 45 deg to a more rounded (radiused) bevel with little to no 45 deg left in the bevel. (Very Short example) A hard angle Bevel (45 deg w/no radius) will produce an edge that will allow the Ski to sit higher in the water and track like it is on rails. A modified bevel will allow the Ski to roll onto it's edge easier and ride a little deeper in the water, creating a Ski that will turn easier but not track as well. The outside edge of the Bevel (top side of bevel) can be Tuned for particular performance characteristics. As well as the inside edge (bottom) of the Bevel. Tuning would be "Softening" or "Sharpening" the Outside/inside edges, based on the desired change needed. All three Zones will usually have a mixture of edges. "Blending" Hard edges to Rounded edges to create the desired performance Characteristics of the Manufacturer or Personalized by the Skier... Much like Tuning a Fin, tuning the Bevels can enhance or reduce certain performance characteristics of a Ski or help to personalize it for an individual... Caution: Don't break out the File and Block sander and start "Tuning" just yet! -This is waaaaaay more crucial and exacting then tuning a Fin and there is No going back once you've gone a little Too far!

@Wish, Thx for posting!

@Wish, Thx for posting!

As far as any workout activity in preparation for anything strenuous in 5 days, ...You are screwed! There is NOTHING that you can do (w/o wise) constructively and still recuperate before your trip... Your best bet is to try be disciplined enough to: Stretch lightly EVERYDAY til then. Hang from a ski Handle to stretch your upper Back& Arms and to remind your grip muscles of what is coming. Do some ez Lean drills Ski the Course Mentally, (visually) Get exellent Rest Eat right Ask God for forgiveness At the School: Warm up and stretch Lightly Only Ski 4 passes on your 1st set. (probably ought to stay at 4 passes Max for the entire trip...) Cool down with some light calisthenics and light stretching ICE your typical problem areas immediately for 20 min's Drink lots of water No alchohol (it's a diuretic and it an imflammatory agent) Eat well, stretch LIghtly before Bed At Home: Go Home and when you recover enough to be able to sit on the Toilet and wipe again... Write: I WILL NEVER BE THAT FRICKEN LAZY AGAIN! 50 times and post it here on BOS!!!

As far as any workout activity in preparation for anything strenuous in 5 days, ...You are screwed! There is NOTHING that you can do (w/o wise) constructively and still recuperate before your trip... Your best bet is to try be disciplined enough to: Stretch lightly EVERYDAY til then. Hang from a ski Handle to stretch your upper Back& Arms and to remind your grip muscles of what is coming. Do some ez Lean drills Ski the Course Mentally, (visually) Get exellent Rest Eat right Ask God for forgiveness At the School: Warm up and stretch Lightly Only Ski 4 passes on your 1st set. (probably ought to stay at 4 passes Max for the entire trip...) Cool down with some light calisthenics and light stretching ICE your typical problem areas immediately for 20 min's Drink lots of water No alchohol (it's a diuretic and it an imflammatory agent) Eat well, stretch LIghtly before Bed At Home: Go Home and when you recover enough to be able to sit on the Toilet and wipe again... Write: I WILL NEVER BE THAT FRICKEN LAZY AGAIN! 50 times and post it here on BOS!!!

@davemac, has the right idea! @alex38, Sounds like you have a fairly clear picture of your objective or goal. That's a good thing, b/c "Losing wgt" will normally end up as "Losing Muscle." In fact, most people actually sacrifice their Muscle 1st and never really lose much Fat. This is a very common error. Especially when trying to target the Mid-section abdominal fat. This is generally a hereditary cond. that is greatly influenced by ones Diet, Exercise habits and Stress. (I am one of these people!) The Mid-section is Very tricky and MUST be chipped away VERY, very slowly. Do not do any highly restrictive, Low Calorie type diets or the Belly fat will generally be retained, (or even added to from the Stress) while the rest of you melts away. The scale will show that you are Losing WGT. but, it will be the wrong WGT. and as soon as you go off the Restrictive high Cal. deficit diet you will gain all of the WGT. back with an additional % of Fat to help the Body Gird against the next season of Famine... Go get a legit Fitness or Fat test from the YMCA or other source locally (Water or Calipers) and then go back and monitor your results every 3-4 wks. This will be a slow process but, these tests will reveal an accurate visual chart of your progress w/regards to your total Body Composition. i.e. Fat %, Muscle %, total Body Wgt. Nothing worse then Dieting your Butt off and Working out real hard only to find out you've lost 15lbs of Muscle and 2 lbs of Fat... -this Happens all the time Good luck!