skiboyny

This should help you make your conversions

@swbca Being that your course will stay where it is by all means go with a sub and a weight on the deep turn arm or whatever you come up with. In and out every year makes this less inviting to persu. You have to streamline as much as possible lots of work.

@swbca Its just a length of Pvc maybe 3" with end caps glued on. A float that you can zip tie to the arm somewhere around halfway. Enough to keep the arm straight but not enough to float the turn ball. Placement is key, you will have to experiment.

If the water is deep enough to allow the arm to sink vertically it will raise along with the course line. If it's not too deep the turn arm sinks and its bottom no big deal. You can use a 3 ft capped piece of PVC located about half way to help mitigate that if the water isn't too deep. You could experiment with a sub buoy at the turn ball, trick is getting some flotation but not enough to raise the turn ball rope loose. Your idea seems good if you can work that out. We have one arm in very deep water and if the turn ball is ripped off for any reason it will rise. Fortunately we have a few people living on the lake looking out for us. We have had to repair that pipe in the past. We use about 3' of rope and a 15" bungie at each ball. The bungie is the fuse. In July prime time we lose quite a few balls most broken at the bungee. We probably get 3/4 of them back either along shore of local homeowners looking out for us. All and all very worth doing in our situation. It's been there for many years and that probably helps.

Probably set up for the Advantage bindings that goode used early on. Nothing today would match those holes. Maybe some type of a universal plate? Filling a hole or two, probably no big deal but all of them... I don't think it'a a great idea.

How do you know when the core breaks down?

I think the pressure goes up with the sidewall ply. I would look for a 8 ply and keep them full. 35lbs has got to be a flimsy tire.

Probably down to about 25 try 30 for starters. Don't be afraid to drop it not uncommon. Mine runs 20-15-18 it's a mastercraft but just for perspective that's how far it needed to go. We also have a older ski nautique right around the same numbers. Good luck!

I hope you have a bit better luck. Tendons can take a long time to be pain free!

@ToddL It's been almost 2 years and it plagues me still. It at this point is as strong as before, but very slow to recover from hard use. If I introduce skiing or strength training at a slow progressive pace (not very easy with the skiing) I can get used to the activity and be somewhat normal. It's a good injury to have because there are so many things you can do without even knowing you had it. For me getting out of the water is much harder on it than the skiing. I'm not really sure if that's a product of skiing, and shows up getting up or just getting up.

What you have sounds good. The bungee is the "fuse" it's just the cost of doing business. Wish it were different...

Z-box works fine on cabutrated boats. It's not exactly the same as Zero off but it's much closer than say Stargazer or hand driving. I too ski on a river that makes power. I map a couple of times a year really don't need to. The map is virtual, so it really only looks at the position of the gates. They don't move much it's just me being fussy. lol

@jimbrake keeping my head out of the water, shoulder blades somewhat pinched together and arms slightly bent and lots of push on the front foot. You have to keep your low back from rounding. Very different from how I got up for so many years. The goal is to keep your hair dry lol. Assuming you hold decent position when you ski the back Is very strong when it’s stacked. Also make it a priority to be somewhat stretched and warmed up before you get in to the water. A size up ski wouldn’t hut if your anywhere near the bubble. All the strength in the world won’t help an aging back that goes round. Best of luck.

Have a good look at your deep water starts. If you allow your body to come over your ski rounding your back your in for trouble. I had to change the way I get up for the same problem as you describe. Your back should always stay neutral, easy to do when your up and running not so easy coming out of the water depending on how you do it.

I have to give you a lot of credit @swbca you have had a long time off, are looking at missing a season, and are still looking to continue at your age. I doubt I would make the same decision, In as much as I do love the sport, there seem to be diminishing returns as the body ages.

It does take time and effort but mostly it takes money. That will always be the stumbling block for this sport.

If you paid full price take it back. I'd call it at least a blem..

I really think it's an evolution that takes time to develop. You have heard all the hips up, shoulders back, stand tall, and none of it is wrong, but you have to physically and mentally, be able to do it and that takes time. It's not a switch you flip. I believe there is a lot of muscle involved in holding the correct position, and the people that do it best have put the time in to develop it, but are largely unaware that it even exists. At the same time your brain needs to learn how to comfortably take that position, and it's incremental. Your body position looks about typical for the time you have in it. Be patient, be aware, you are on the same journey as everyone else only at a different time frame.

I've seen it done all kinds of ways and none are wrong. IMO you should bring the pass up to speed. Running a pass at full speed sets you up nicely for the next line. There you might dial it back a mile or two till you get the new timing.

On the 190 you have to take out the floor panel and motor cover together. The hinges have no pull pins. There is a vertical carpeted trip stop that comes out first 4 screws than 4 screws that hold the floor board. Two people can handle it easy enough. Not sure about the 197.

@alex38 the boats I've dealt with are in the 20 neighborhood. Don't be shy...

Release? Leave them loose?

@brody I’d look in to a system reset.

@alex38 raise 1 ball background. Probably like most everyone the one ball times are hot, so the perfect pass subsequently slows the 2 ball. Most people think with a fast one ball time the last thing you would do is raise one ball background, but you need to think like a machine. Oddly enough, many times when you get the 2 ball right the one ball time slows. Go figure...

Try to add a return spring, see if that tightens it up.